JLSleather

Thanks, Pt... adding that to the list. I did get a response from Allison at Progressive Service Die Co... no estimate yet as I didnt' specify die height. My mistake. Okay, so to start a 'collection' of possible sources ... : Economy Die Makers (ON Canada) http://www.economydiemakers.com/ Global Die (Auburn, ME) http://globaldie.com/ Intl Die (Clarkesville, GA) http://intdieco.com/ National Steel Rule Die (Vandalia, OH) http://www.nationalsteelruledie.com/ Progressive Service Die Co (No Carolina) http://psdcdies.com/index.html Texas Custom Dies (Mansfield, TX) http://www.usacuttingdie.com/

Still haven't contacted ALL these people. Did get another estimate back. $150 seems a bit steep for a fairly simple holster blank die, but I guess if that's what ya gotta spend to git'er done right ....

Not all mags are created equal. You might have better results if you tell us what mag you're trying to suit. All these boys round here, SOMEBODY got one ...

Yeah, let's see 'em ! I've heard good things about that Angelus finish, but i've usually got too many trials and test-fits going on to try it out!

I like whatcha did there, but you mighta had less work jus' ignorin that 1911 pattern and startin from scratch Some o them rails should be maybe spelled R A K E. Looks like you gotter covered, even if that was almost like WORK! Good to see folks sharin' a pattern, too -- WAY too many folks terrified of that.

Okay, so to start a 'collection' of possible sources ... : Economy Die Makers (ON Canada) http://www.economydiemakers.com/ Global Die (Auburn, ME) http://globaldie.com/ National Steel Rule Die (Vandalia, OH) http://www.nationalsteelruledie.com/ Progressive Service Die Co (No Carolina) http://psdcdies.com/index.html Texas Custom Dies (Mansfield, TX) http://www.usacuttingdie.com/

I don't "weight" anything. BOP it down tight, and off to the next one. Have yet to see one come apart.

Fair enough on teh exchange rates. Now if I could figure out the snail mail thingy!

Yeah, perhaps I'll just cut by hand (some more). While I would love to click out parts, it seems most are content with "about so much", or "somewhere around here". I understand that metal generally contracts when cooling (from a process such as welding). But if you know that, then ALLOW for that. I don't want dies that are "about like this" or "sorta" something. I just got email from yet another place. I sent a drawing and asked for a price and a level of precision. I got a price I thought was maybe a hair high, but no "acceptable" precision. I didn't find any company called "progressive". Just a bunch of info about what a progressive die is -- and I do know what a progressive die is --- I used to design some of them.

RIght. But willingness to pay for advertising does not make one the 'guy' for the job

Appreciate the link. But, sadly I have no canadian currency WHY do none of these sites say what file types are acceptable? Doesn't seem like saying "send us .ai" or "we need .dxf" would be a security threat! I'd put a list of where to go for these dies, but until I've actually ordered from a company I don't want to look like I'm endorsing them. And if I put up a list of those I haven't used, then I gotta put on something about disclaimers 'n' such.... STILL, might be somebody here who can use that very clear, concise, accurate information --- so -- SERIOUSLY -- I appreciate the link.

pro-dies doesn't exist, and globaldie doesn't respond. Wonderful.

That's what I said! Not sure if anybody knows what they're doing, though. I bought several sides when they had a close-out on Royal Meadow tooling leather (the only leather in the place worth buying). Then 6-7 months later, I stopped in again, and the leather that was "discontinued" was right there on the shelf where it always was I figured at about 40% off, I aint losing nothing pitching the bellies. Ended up giving 'em to some kids group thing... where I'm purdy sure they destroyed it

One gal at a store said her boyfriend was going to have a booth at a craft fair. She said he DOES use bellies, and I don't, so I suggested they take the sides I was buying, cut off the bellies, and give 'em to her boyfriend. Must be a big deal.. almost like it scared 'em. So, I said I'll be right over there at that restaurant for the next hour - hour ana half ... if you're boyfriend wants to show up and get this FREE leather. But she didnt' want even the appearance of something against the rules. Oh, well..

Well, yeah. Not sure why, but lots of folks don't seem to grasp the "volume" thing. SLC and others certainly SHOULD have brokered a better deal than most of us get. But that's true on the things they sell, too. Does anybody really think they're paying the same for HO as you 'n' me? Back to the shipping thing, HO send me 10 sides and the shipping is $50 (ish).

Yeah, I posted this so folks would know. Truth is, I wouldn't have a problem paying the shipping if they send me WHAT I order WHEN I order it. This last order, they did that quite well. But that hasn't always been the case. I remember "back when", I ordered HO backs. What I got came with bellies on it. Some genius cut the wrong way... instead of cutting off the belly they cut off the shoulder If paying the $7-10 shipping allows them to pay for someone in the shiping dept who can READ, then I'm all for it

Tough to email poster board

Decide on the buckle you want to use, and cut the straps and slots to suit the buckle. Stohlman's BELTS GALORE book explains this easily, and there are others just as good. I don't use strap end punches. WAY too much money for something so simple. If you're making 10 belts per week, just make a posterboard or card stock template and cut the tips with an x-acto knife. If you're making 100 belts per week, get a clicker die to cut the ends (it won't be that much more than a "strap end punch" anyway). As a rule, I use a strip 10" longer than the "size" I need. I say "as a rule" because the buckle length will change that (a 2" long buckle needs an inch LESS leather than a 1" long buckle). So if you are making a size 40, then the leather would actually be 40 + 6" past the middle hole + 3.5" past the fold in teh leather, for a total of 9.5" longer than the "size". If you have 1 1/4" long buckles then the fold to the middle hole is 38 3/4. Plus the 9.5 is 48 1/4". If you want to cut the "keeper" from the same strip, then around 53" should work.

W/C has nice leather. There's no difference in the tannage between the "skirting" and the "tooling". HO does the same thing, they sell "strap", "tooling", and "holster", but its' the same leather. The guy who first posted is in PA already, which I would consider a no-brainer. I really like HO, and use a good bit of it, but if I lived where I could make it an afternoon trip I'd be at W/C a LOT more often

I requested info on the file type you need the patterns in, but no response. Guess I was expecting a fairly quick answer-- if quotes are same day, surely an answer to a question .... Not emergency just yet, but can't wait long.

People probably able to help you , but would need to clarify .... what are you calling 25° ? 25 off of horizontal? or 25 off the vertical?

I see along with the web site change, springfield has abandoned the free shipping. Drat, just when I was ready to spend a bunch of money there. Actually, I did just recently place a small order down there.... dye, glue, buckles, somethin' else- can't remember right off. Order arrived correct and quick.

My comments got nuthin' to do with this part, but tha's jus' funny right there. So, the guy who uses it likes the fit, AND it brought in "work". No problems there! NAILED it. Green is tough to do well, I don't care WHO ya are And while the color on the S/W is too much for me, that was exactly the ORDER of the day, and if you were after "girlie"... NAILED IT Overall, I don't think mine would look that sleek if I took 15 year breaks! Nice job.

Looks purdy good. That stitchin' is meh tic you lus! And I'm the guy who usually hears about stitchin' and thinks "meh...".

My wife uses a wallet daily which was airbrushed with leather dyes. Years later, still looks good. But that isn't heavy use under harsh conditions. If you want suspenders to look good like "for show", then either way would be fine. If you want suspenders that look good AND will 'take a beating", I'd probably cut them from drum dyed english bridle leather.