JLSleather

Nope. But you might have better luck from somebody who does if you put down what kinda laser. Oh, and which mustang? They make a pocketlite and an XSP, trigger guard is quite a bit different.

Sweet If you're within 1/2", just tell 'em push away from the table occasionally!

This is exactly what I was thinking. If they can't be bothered to answer a request for information leading to a sale, then how good is their service and response time going to be later, when they are NOT making a sale?

The secret is... there's NO SECRET Measure around where you want to put the belt, then give me the number. Simple. I don't know HOW people mess that up, but they do. The first post is for leather people, though - not the customer. Once you DO have the right number, it matters what buckle you're using. Say someone measures their belt and tells you it's 35" from the fold to the hole they use. That's fine IF you're using the same buckle or a similar one. But take off a buckle that's 1" long, and put on a buckle that's 4" long, and now you have a belt that is 3" too big!

Yep. I'm not seeing where people who "never" get a bad size are making too many belts. That's like a carpenter who never hits his thumb with a hammer. You know who NEVER hits his thumb with a hammer? Someone who doesn't use a hammer! That's like a leather worker who "never' gets a cut.

Yep, should be fine as long as you realize that the 22 is about half an inch LONGER than the 23 (well-- like 13 mm I think). The 23 WILL work. The 22 will protrude out the end unless you extend it. The 21, I don't honestly know

The correct answer is Tuesday. We should all stop cutting ourselves on Tuesday

Thanks fellas. I personally never liked that design as well as some others from that book - always thought the holster could have been la little more form-fitting, and the carving struck me as a bit sparse (whatever that means). Still, had a gentleman wanted THAT holster, and even sent me a picture from a web site showing a 4 oz bottle of Fiebing's dye with saddle tan "sample swatch". This guy knew what he wanted!

Yeah, basically right billy. That pattern is from "How to Make Holsters", which has been around longer than me. Pretty much right off the page - shows just how that border is done. And Chief, thanks for the comments - and what ARE you doing up at that hour!

Every so often I still get asked about one of these (original art by A. Stohlman). This one requested with the unchanged carving, but with saddle tan base color and chocolate background and natural thread.

Downloads at 850 .. but that's just for the 2 variations of 1911's.

This is a great response. No BS from him. No BS from you. Since it's "matching", there shouldn't be any confusion on the finished look. Pricing is your own thing, but keep in mind a set of bags can eat up a few hundred $$ worth of leather in a hurry.

We've been here.. sent messages, but they may have hit a cold front north of the twin cities and got stalled on the way to you Collar looks good.. very trim.

Okay, enough already. Just HOW MANY of them things did Glock sell !#@!@#$!@!!!

Just FYI, in case you have con-men-tractors down your way applying siding (like here). On the odd chance you didn't already know, your building should be water-tight BEFORE the siding goes on (house wrap is awesome). That pink "fan-fold" crap is just that.. crap. Just so you don't let somebody "sell" you that the siding is for preventing water penetration. We got central air up here, and I think it's set for about 35% humidity, which seems to work just fine.

YEAH.. please DO use it. Perhaps we can get a bit more quality leather work going around... and a bit less poo attached to a fancy story and pointless (droning) youtube video!

I would agree that dual loaders should be in separate sections. If one is removed, the other can 'flop' around in there, or lay flat (making it hard or impossible to grab). Stitch a line between them, or use a divider (I'd stitch).

Well, I was talkin' holsters, not complete rigs! And that's if they aint tooled. Basically, trick is to do nothing else ... so any carved belts ordered cut into that time. New holster design? Then the numbers come down again! As a rule, the process for 'git er done' is a 3-step model... Do nothing else. Drink much coffee. Keep an eye on George,.. that guy mess around 'n' teach ya sumthin' Thanks all the same, though!

Well, much of it IS a generation thing. Everything is disposable. Why spend $400 on a lifetime belt, when you can get 8 pieces of -- something else - for the same money. Just pitch one when it wears out, and you'll always have a "new" one. If you have college kids, or are around them, it's even worse. The new phone, new tablet, new girlfriend, none of it permanent.. it's expected to last long enough until the new one comes out. Well, maybe the girlfriend thing is just me Add to that, "crafts" has come to mean cute but often useless 'trinkets'. People often shop these shows (or attend rodeos, etc) and want to buy 'something'. They don't often care about quality or even that it lasts past next week -- just the fun of 'going to the show' and buying something. BUT... it's at least in part due to "crafters" attitude as well. You watch - like at all - and you'll see 'crafters' who want a maximum price for a minimum of work -- apparently they should get paid for a SPEECH about "hand crafted". I don't mean one or two of them, either. Now, I'm with you.. I like to see a good product at a good price. A piece of poo at a bargain price is no bargain. But if that 'crafter' is making things that are "okay-ish" and wanting premium price, then you can't blame the buyers for going with the "okay-ish" with a reasonable price. As I sometimes say, IF you can't TELL the difference, then why PAY the difference? Take it a step further -- if all of your projects look pretty much the same, then why NOT manufacture them? Can't blame a guy for wanting a better price, or a better product, or both. I've seen leather folded over a couple times, stamped with some "maker mark" stitched and badly colored (it's not called streaked any more these days -- now it's "distressed" or "antiqued") and sold (a LOT) for $50+. Now, if a guy can spit those out of a machine at 10/hour, what's the difference? Buyer is getting the same thing. IF it's not BETTER, then "hand made" is pointless.

Totally useless crap -- I sent that junk back. Used to buy some good stuff on ebay. Now it seems it's more like the stuff they can't sell you to your face ..

Only in the western hemisphere. Otherwise, reverse that.

Back to the original question, though... the answer is no - there is no method of "get the correct measurement" without measuring. It's been tried for a long time, but not done. I've seen people who swear that you "add 2 inches" and others who swear "add 4 inches". Add to what? Can't go by the jeans size, those are all over the place. Different jeans manufacturers make 'em different, and new jeans don't measure the same as old ones of the same type (they stretch and wear thinner). Some are actually proud of coming up with the "idea" of putting more holes in the belt (apparently, a couple more inches hanging out on the end is okay). Jim's chart (referenced above and pinned in the pattern section) simply doesn't work -- too vague. Not that it won't work EVER... throw enough darts at a dartboard, one will hit occasionally. I'm not willing to take it apart, since that guy seems otherwise very knowledgeable. If you read the TEXT under that chart, the instruction portion, it's readily apparent that the way he's measuring WILL work. BUT, he admits that the chart is "based on Pants Size Measurement... which can be hit or miss" (quoting Jim). Plus, the chart assumes that a center bar buckle is "this big" and a shield buckle (or trophy buckle) is 'this big" - -though there are thousands of variations and sizes, and a 4" buckle doesn't give the same size belt as a 2" buckle.

Exactly this. I have been known to send customers (and potential customers) a 'strip' the same thickness as the belt they are wanting. Tell 'em wrap it around, mark where it overlaps with a pen (trace right across the leather), measure from the end to the mark, send me the number, throw away the strip. 3/4" wide trim from putting a straight edge on a side, lined with the normal lining leather. Glued but not stitched - though I have been known to put a couple (or 4) 6-8" rows of stitching side by side so they can see thread colors ... If someone is spending $50-60 for a plain belt, and the belt ends up fitting one hole away from center, might just be okay. Or, at least they know, and they can return it for exchange for one that is one hole over, now that they know. But if they're spending actual money for a belt you're going to have hours in, nice to get that one right the first time!

Never mind. There's George right there ↑ and he says no clicked parts. I saw some of the work, and it looks like he uses the same design on multiple models for the belt loop. Efficient, without looking monotonous

Yeah, somebody sent me a SHAPE (not the tooling design), and I thought it looked both small and familiar. So, a little digging... and the paper they sent me fits that page 18 like a glove. Which, it shouldn't do