JLSleather

Perhaps that's where that phrase came from.. queer as a football bat But you seem confused. I don't see anybody "anti- round knife. In fact, I view them like golf... no problem if the OTHER guy does it.. In the end, though, what about the LEATHER?

I generally buy backs... sides with the belly already removed. Sure it has a purpose though. Hmmm.... Put it inside the shop door, place to wipe yer feet when you come in out the rain. Use it to cover the bench, in case you spill some dye. Makes small but good smelling curtains. Wickett / Craig will sell you the bellies for about $15 if I remember rightly. Even at that price, I dont buy 'em. http://www.wickett-craig.com/

I'd skip it, personally. Be a COLD day when I go 100 miles and don't know what I'm getting. But then, the tandy "classes" I've seen (by accident, happened to walk in the store) were useless -- generally along the lines of old fat guy with a sales pitch and / or need for attention. Maybe not the same in other places? But, that one in MN had a cute girl attending it, so not a complete waste of time (though not involving leather). $100 buys about half a side of cow leather .. a LOT of hands on practice. Here, someone wants you to pay $100 to have them tell you what tools and leather you need (which they are willing to sell you). Or you could buy a "membership" (which I suppose they make sound like a "deal" since it's more than the $100) which is good ONLY with Tandy. And you need to buy tools just to take the classes, ON TOP of what you're already paying? Yikes ... But bottom line, there's a SEA of information to be had right from home and FREE. I've purchased a few books over the years, but as a rule --- If a guy thinks his opinion is so important he should CHARGE me for it... then he can keep it

I once went in a store looking for an awl. You'd think that would be simple. But apparently, one that actually WORKS is harder to find So I grabbed one, put a blade in it from off the shelf, and went to stab that piece of 9/10 cow across the aisle. Manager - what with managers being rather the girlie, can't -deal -with -a -real -job type - freaks out cuz I'm gonna put a hole in that leather (Oh MY!). So I told him I'd BUY that piece of leather. And IF this cuts without leaning on it, I'll take teh awl haft and blade, too. Turned out he was worrying for nothing .. that awl wouldn't hurt that leather anyway Never thought I'd see the day when I have to sharpen a blade BEFORE I use it. After 1000 years of tool and die work, I know HOW to sharpen, I just don't think I should have to. I also shouldn't have to heat my food at the resturaunt (it should come that way) or put oil in it when I buy a new car...

American made.. tha's a good 'un

Oh, yeah... this may be better for some .. though same point. Guy wants to blow insulation in the walls of his house, finds out he needs holes in the wall between each wall stud. So he goes to the hardware store, where the kid tells him he needs a drill. Here's one.. $19. BUT, this other one is variable speed, which is better... $29. Oh, wait.. this one is reversible and variable.. $49. And this 'real man' version also adds hammer-drill function - $99. Finally, the guy has so much "information", he tries to think back about what he really needs. And at this point, most would say all he really needs is the "cheap" $19 straight forward drill. But that's not true.. what he really needs is holes in his wall -- and the drill is just one way to get that done. In the end the drywall would be patched leaving no evidence of what was used to make the holes. What is important is the finished appearance of the wall.

Welcome to 2015... it "must" be good - there's a video about it! Yeah, think that's another sales pitch I'm just going to go on around. Everything on my site -- and 100 times more --- all done without a round blade, or head knife, whatchacallit. Good news... those who like 'em, can take the last one on the shelf.. don't wait for me! I'll tell a short story, which I think (still) is what is going on here. It's for my benefit, so if there's anything in someone's mind that thinks I'm trying to persuade you... I'm not. Do whatever you like. So then ... I had an ugly truck. I mean, UG LEE. It was once white,but the white paint had become chalky and dull. And then it got hit in the driver door, so I replaced that with a different door, which was flat black. Somewhere along the line, I'd paint the whole thing. But there was a snow blade complete with mount for that exact truck for $1k (normally closer to $5k) so I put it on there. Now I had a dull white truck with flat black door (one) and black plow mount with yellow blade (Meyer). OH, yeah,.. and I put a 6" x 1/2" thick mild steel bar scraper on the blade instead of the semi-hardened shiny one that says "meyer" on it (free to me, versus about $150). Didn't even paint the scraper bar... just bare steel. And it was a 4-on-the-floor, so I fabbed an aluminum mount so I could put the plow controls permanently on the shifter - no need to move my hand off the shifter OR the controls. Well, until it was time for coffee and a convenience store girl. SO.. one of those girl / coffee stops, the kid with the shiny new truck with all the pretty lights pulls in to plow the parking lot of the station. He's a jerk, but his Dad is a good man, so I tolerate the goof. In what appeared to be an attempt to impress the girlie, he went on a bit about that truck (perhaps a "real" man would replace that thing). He didn't go too far, since he knew we have other trucks -- and to him it's apparently all about appearances. Personally don't care, so I drive the ugly one (which is also quite good for carrying firewood and other things that would 'ding' a shiny truck). At some point, I told him I'd help him plow the rest of the night for free. All he had to do is go up a few blocks to that big parking lot, look at the snow all piled up on one end, and tell me WHICH truck or trucks had plowed that lot - and I'd work for him all night long for nuthin'. Danged if he couldn't tell WHICH truck(s) did that.. all you could see was a clear parking lot with a big wall of snow all on one end. And it seems were here again. Round knives. Head knives. French edgers. More videos (like we need more videos ). I actually prefer to see the LEATHER. Same type of thing .... look at the leather, and tell me what it was cut with. If you can't tell, then perhaps it doesn't matter.

I'm not seeing the "answer" in this case. I don't listen to anybody and everybody, but Aaron has posted enough pictures of good looking leather that his would be one opinion I would at least consider. Plus, his responses tend to be thoughtful (not "yeah, what he said") so even if I don't agree, I at least had that view presented. But in that line of thought, I could by a Porsche to go to the grocery store - it will get the job done. But so would the $10k Chevy .. just as well and for much less cost and much less maintenance. But if the original question wasn't what I thought, then I'll ask it myself .. what can you do with a round knife that you couldn't do with something else?

Yeah, there's that "traditionally" thing. But in terms of actual USEfulness, the utility knife can be "learned" as with any other tool, to do about anything, WITH the advantage of not spending hours sharpening (just swap a new blade in and go), which is why I prefer that route. My judgment, most people who have one -- have one so they can say they have one. There's nothing wrong with tradition -- each his own. But I'm not getting a round knife to do what I already do without one. I'm also not takin' my wares to the general store on horseback / pack mule Oh, and much as I admire A. Stohlman's work (STILL), I don't buy tools just because they say "Al" (even if others do).

There is no point on a round knife. Actually, I'm sure you'll have some folks liniin' up here to tell you all about so many wonderful needs for the things, but I've never owned one. I've made a LOT of stuff over the years without one.

Well, that was my thought, too. But, these days Tandy does not have a monopoly on dull tools. I ordered an awl 5 times (in 4 different places) before finding one that was decent. Not good, just bearable. I really don't want more machines and tools, but I would like a quick and easy way to skive belt ends. NOT spending $1k to do it.

Anybody ever used one of these? Seems like a handy tool that doesn't take up much space.

How well does it clear the front site?

Actually, Jeff's "tone" was to cut through the crap and HELP.

Not sure Im following you there. When I make notebooks, it matters if they have a gusset or not. basically, you don't want glue anywhere it will show (short version), so you would stop at teh stitch line. Some things, maybe a bit different depending on lotsa things. Simple way to do that? Ya gotta stitch groover? Ora creaser you use to mark the stitch line? Use that same tool (LIGHTLY) on teh inside, hten just lay the paper on that mark.

What small diameter? Are you trying to glue JUST from the stitching out? Put a piece of paper down on teh leather, lined up with where you want the glue to stop. Think taping off your windows before you paint the walls (only don't use tape -- just a piece of paper is fine). Painters call it a "mask". You can see what i mean ... download one of them files about makin holsters instructions.. same thing -- shows the "glue blockin'" http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-diy/ OH--- I think you'll find that contact cement that settles has some parts more brown-ish and some more yellow-ish. Mix till you have one color somewhere in between. Now that we can see your pics.. yeah.. WAY too thick.

I've used that Tanner's and never had a problem with it. Generally, if you're getting "boogers", it's too thick. This can be from the glue itself settling (and getting thick) or from simply applying it too thick, or from not letting it cure enough. Since you let it sit so long, we'll rule that one out (I find about 4 hours is plenty most of the time, before stitching). So either your glue is settled or you put too much on there. Did you mix the glue before using it? I do this with the Barge, too. Shake the sucker like you were shaking a can of paint (in fact, I wouldn't mind having a paint shaker just for that!). But quart or smaller jugs, you could just use a stick. You'll be able to tell if it's settling -- there will be more than one color... just make sure it all mixes together (all one color again).

https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-998-tooling-barnwood-by-kat-kuszak-series-9d-page-8.aspx? Complete 'stages' illustration. Save an hour of your life wading through a bunch of u-tube ROT by somebody with a small-man complex (they'll call it "marketing", but it's the same thing). Get something actually USEFUL

Exactly. I think a pointed background tool, modeling spoon, and a knife be about it. I think it was Kat Kuszak did a very nice explanation of this in an old Tandy "doodle page". [ Kat, if I got yours and somebody else's mixed up, don't take it personal -- still love your stuff! ] Very nice looking barnwood thing done in "layers" of stages... very easy to follow. What was that ... like 1980-something? They'll be some ass on you-tube shortly claiming he / she "invented" it, but truth is it's been done forever (and Kat did it well as anyone). I'll see kin I finda copy .... YEP.. still available. My mistake, looks like it was '87. She goes step by step, for anybody interested. Very well stated and illustrated. No video required Download it at https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-998-tooling-barnwood-by-kat-kuszak-series-9d-page-8.aspx?

I don't know how you guys take that stuff. 36 minute video for that? I basically couldn't take it any more and at about 11 minutes, just shut it off. BUT, you boys on about how great it was, I made myself turn it on again this morning. Not to badmouth the guy, but rather see what he actually said -- and maybe get a handle on both the bullet loops AND the "let's make a video of every project we're ever going to make" syndrome that's everywhere any more. Particularly if it takes the first 10 minutes to cut 2 pieces of poster board. ...................................................... Cut 2 piece of card stock 9" x 2 3/4" and round the corners. Draw a center line on each piece. Take 3 measurements. 1.) Determine how wide you want the bullet strip (this case 5/8"). [ADD PIC] 2.) Determine the length of strip needed for each loop. Draw a line across the strip close to one end and Now put the cartridge on a flat surface and wrap the strip across the cartridge so the line you drew is flat on the surface. Pull the other end of the strip down to the surface and draw another line along the cartridge. This is the length of strip needed per cartridge. [ADD PIC] 3.) Measure down the flat surface between the lines. This is the spacing on the back piece. [ADD PIC] Cut and mark your strip for the length you will need for the desired number of cartridges, leaving about 1" on each end. [ADD PIC] Center the strip on the back piece and stitch down each loop. If desired, you can stitch continuously by folding the strip out of the way and stitching diagonally from the bottom of one stitch line to the top of the next stitch line. [ADD PIC] [ADD PIC] ...................................................... I think that's about it? Unless you need a video showing how to stitch a back piece. Disturbing the things people can decide are reasons to make a video. Now, personally, it don't matter to me, cuz all I need to do is just don't watch it if you don't like it, right? For myself, I won't be spending 1/2 hour to watch what I could have read (with pictures) in 5 minutes. Oh, as for that particular video... that actually was better than many you'll find. At least he made his point... I mean you actually COULD make bullet loops after enduring the video. This automatically puts him a notch or two up on the guy who wants me to watch a video of his latest belt, or yet another holster no more custom than i could order at Cabela's (or such). [seriously fellas, you like your new holster, post a pic, let us know you like it, and move on -- no video required]. Well, actually another "plus" -- it was free to endure watch. Some guys actually want to charge you for that (or even less than that). One thing I didn't care for - he made quite a point of "pushing down" the stitching and talking about why he did it. But the stitching that will take the abuse is the diagonal stitch where bullets will be rubbed over it again and again. Those were NOT "pushed down". OH.. and if you're doing 'math' and figuring how much strip you need... why not also figure in the ends, so you don't have that "hack job" cut off at the end? One question, Richard... was that a temporary lack of concentration because you were busy, or do you really think your cobra 4 machine was made in California?

Call Steve. That's the official response.

Like I'm not gonna read THAT one! I did reply to your question over there ← on that other site. Putting that here in case someone else can help with it further... I have the small revolver pattern for the Smith J-frames, but I'm unsure of the fit on the ladysmith (which if i remember is an I-frame). It does fit the Taurus M85 well, so you might find it just fine. I have a desk covered with "dummy" guns to get through, so I don't even know when I could design one. Is there a dummy for that one? Maybe could pick one up and shove it in teh j-frame holster to test ... EDITED FOR CORRECTION: The Ladysmith was originally an "M" frame revolver. Now, you may well find J-frames being referred to as "ladysmith" models.

Drill press will work in Greece - ya jus gotta flip the cord upside down Well, maybe a voltage regulator as well. My wife is an import from NZ, so I can tell you the NEW equipment is cheaper than shipping the old one! Still, looks like your stamps have adapted well to the metric leather.

That was a lot of stuff about dummies. To be clear, were you looking for the GUN, or a leather cutting PATTERN? I don't have either, and normally I would simply just NOT reply where I don't have an answer for you. But that ↑ was long enough it left me - and likely others - confused about what it is you're wanting. I have checked 5 or 6 places where I have found dummy guns, and did NOT find one for this weapon. So perhaps I salvage SOME value from my post. Incidentally, I don't find cost of the firearm a 'rule' for the availability of a dummy model. Case in point, Boberg pistols - only around a couple of years and they run $1300 give-er-take. But there are several companies making dummies for them.

Purdy. You have just a tad of 'fuzz' on the edge of the green one, but since it looks like the inside is chrome (?) I'd say those edges are meticulously done. Since I basically can count the ridges in your fingerprints, I'm gonna say that piece of fuzz is very small. That's the only cheap shot i can take at it Looks GOOD.