Gregg From Keystone Sewing

It's not that easy, unfortunately, once you've signed for it. Not as far as UPS goes anyway. Obviously, there is such a thing as 'hidden damage' from shipping, but are going to have to prove that it was packed exceptionally well, and unless you can demonstrate that, UPS is not going to do a heck of a lot here, based on past experiences. Heck, it can even be packed in the original, international shipping container, and still not be covered. It's a darn shame it can go three quarters around the world without any damage, but can't make it across state lines. Nothing grinds my gears like a poorly packed machine, yet I see it all the time, and do my best to prevent it from happening from machines both coming and going.

Glad to help! It's always fun to share, and I've learned a quite a bit here too, as usual. Sharing here is ALWAYS a two way street.

OK, here we go. Let me preface that this post comes with some emotional turmoil; Seeing the Abco SOS tag make me feel like "If you can't find anything to do, don't do it here!" "Get back to work!" Thanks for that, Dad. Abco was formerly who we are now. Abco was chosen so we would be listed at least near the top of the list, close to first listed sewing machine dealer in the Philadelphia telephone book. Today, of course people don't think like that any longer. For some younger folks, this is why you see so many names like AAA, A-1, or the like. My mom got tired of spelling Abco for people all day. This was between 1977 through 1980 before we moved into the building we are in now. Small window into my mind, thanks for giving me at outlet to share! Anyways, let get on with it if your still reading up to this point. I think the machine in question is missing some parts, and this is how the tension release works, very different than just about any other machine I can think of, but very few have an edge chopper. BTW, the chopper arc is missing on these two, I've got one more with it not pictured. Between all three, we may have one complete machine. Check the pics, think this is going to provide the best visual explanation I can give. There are no internal sewing parts that are going to release the tension, as setup from the factory.

OK, now my interest perked up. Few things. Number one, are you sure this part is going to work in conjunction with this machine? Second, make sure (SURE) if you do go with this part, use a good quality item; a good quality tension release slide will break like glass; poor quality will bend like a paper clip. I've got more than one of these 111W117s here, and now I have to see for myself what is going on. I'll report back.

Not so secret is this flip guide, that will work on your LH-515 as well, commonly available generic part.

The only constant with needles is that it's next to impossible to designate every system designation, system cross references, needle point, size, finish (coating) and shank variety within a system. And boy have people tried over the years. I wanted to share with everyone what an "S" point designation was from Schmetz, as I had no idea myself, and had to look it up in the book. And I only have read books about needles and deal with them nearly on a daily basis. On a related note, my understanding is that Schmetz is being bought out by Groz-Beckert, and have no idea how that is going to play out. Not the first time Groz-Beckert made a move like that, but not with a name as prominent as Schmetz, for sure.

This is the original, and even this is based off the older Singer 153W Class

As far as machines go, this one here looks complete,ready to sew. Just flip the handwheel 180 degrees, put the slide plate covers over the hooks, and I think your ready to go? gottaknow obviously speaks from (a lot) of experience, and if you are not going to use this or any machine for angular stitching, then it's true this machine may not be for you. But if you are in need of machine with needle feed, drop feed only, with split needle bar, this is as good as any out there, new or refurbished. And if the mechanism is weak in terms of wearing premature, then you have to deal with it, otherwise you are not going to be able to do angular stitching at all on any machine!

Didn't know this was a thing trying to find this book, I'll check our physical books here.

Sounds like you have to fix it with a hammer to move it. Preferably a leather mallet would do it. Don't over tighten the screw, it can break the casting and create a true mess.

Sounds about right; I was skiing in Vermont Friday! All the best.

I deal with parts issues as they come, deal with them and move on. I think I remember sending this off to someone recently for this very issue; this is a parts book from an Adler 366 that shows the anti backlash spring installed. This is a common hook used in a lot of machines, and the spring in question can be used here, or not.

Books are too large to upload here, I'll link them to my website for download; Pfaff 438 Parts CLICK HERE Pfaff 438 Service Manuals that cover this machine, book one CLICK HERE book two CLICK HERE

Glad things are looking on the up and up on this thread. On the rock arms in the back we want a 10 degree angle.

If they were formerly using the shorter, incorrect needle system, you are going to have to raise the needle bar to the correct height to accommodate the correct needle. As for spacers, Adler 205 uses shims here to bring the hook closer or farther away, depending on needle thickness, sold in .2mm and .3mm shims.

1)That's the way, no other way to do it. Usually we can repair by going one size bigger on the taper pin, or go one size taper pin bigger. At some point, though, the taper pin's thickness becomes equal to or greater than the shaft on either size of the pin, then it's time to replace the arms and shaft and start over again. Not cheap, and not easy to realign, but it's not often that we need to repair like this. 2) The small set screw on bottom and or dimple is only really good for installing the pin; the amount of pressure going through this is such that a set screw is going to do very little here; the taper pin is doing almost if not 100 percent of the work. 3)Absolutely correct. Pin hole should like clean as a shotgun barrel, especially where the arm and shaft meet inside the shaft. Otherwise the pin will not be in the hole for long. 4)Again, absolutely correct. BUT, that's if the hole is ovaled out, exactly as stated. Then, we need to go in, with the correct reamer, again, making a large size pin, and fixing that way. The important thing to understand is that when parts are properly fitted and the pins break, that does not at all indicate that the parts are worn; it may just only mean that the pin is broken, in three places, and needs to be replaced.

The DNU-1541 bottom load can pick up the bobbin thread in the middle of the run without removing the goods being sewn from the machine. However, the upper thread is the most important to hold at the beginning of the run, taking the slack out of the thread, on BOTH LU-1508 and DNU-1541 Series, or anything like these for that matter. Not twice as much, but normally low $400 through high $600, if I can generalize here.

This 'fix' is to prevent the thread from losing tension; what can happen is the thread can pop out of the top of the tension disks, and ride on top of them instead of sandwiched in between them. But if you are asking, yes, this will and more tension, overall, threading it through the pin.

That was the 1st thing we thought to look for; if these were the same, part number would be the same.

Nice info., never knew that or anything about that for that matter.

This is the best I could come up with on short notice, check out the threading; once more through the thread regulator, three hole post before the tension assembly. Next, go under the pin, and then follow through like before. The thread will never come out again, but one more item, over time, will suffer from a thread cut over extended time, and some will eventually begin to cut the thread. You can then either replace the pin or the tension complete, at that point. Again, it should take years unless you are using fiberglass thread or Mitchells round emory cord through it.

Funny how this site pops up when I'm trying to find stuff as well...I'm currently on the hunt for this belt now as well, since we took one in on repair, also a Singer 307G2, cloth timing belt part # 506726. Some of our generic suppliers have this part part listed, but no one seems to have it...so far! No timing belt, no machine.

That's an AWESOME video, thanks for sharing. I have a few people in mind I would like to share this with.

We have four or five of these machines, sold one in the past 18 years, and the guy was looking for one and happy to have it. We were happy to sell it! It was with a 1/4" gauge, and I think the knives are available. Machine has some added stuff on it, like said, not sure at all what that stuff if about. See attached parts book and sale catalog information. 111W116,W117.pdf Singer Bridgeport Wheeler Wilson 111W Class.pdf