Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Koban mfg. # is SCP545, and fall under Juki part # 212-29307 AND Pfaff part # 91-018348-91. This confirms both items are one and the same. Look for this under the Pfaff number, I think that you'll like the price a lot better.

Cool, learned something new here as usual, never knew that about cars and Singer.. However, Singer Sewing Machine Man Below wants to know if it's a 'made with sewing machine parts' kind of cool?

Depending on what parts, machines, brands, all kinds stuff, exactly.

See attached, this should help.

Any dealer worth their salt is happy to explain to the best of our ability these new to everyone Chinese tariffs. It's almost across the board 15 percent on machines, motors, legs, table tops and anything else I can think of that shows up from China. So our cost is now higher, and in turn our price. So, even if you buy a Japanese machine head, everything else probably comes from China.

If the SPI is the same within the three SPI forward and reverse, then it's as good as it can get. You should expect the it not to match up front to back if you are five forward where someone ground out the frame or something to make it longer in forward stitching.

More like people are making things and they don't know what they are doing. And then someone copied their mistakes.

See attached image. Singer tension on the Left has a tension release lever, grey or silver that will break like glass if you try to bend it. This is where grinding down the small pin within the tension disks works. The one on the Right can bend with a needle nose tool closer and farther, while on the machine to take up any gap. This one will, usually, hold up to spring tension without getting bent out of shape. The tension that you have on your machine...I have no idea.

Most often this occurs when someone who does not know that this will hang up if you remove the needle bar rock frame without pushing it out of the casting hole on top. It can be usually bent back in place and does not have to be 100% straight to work very well.

And that's the other thing to check for on the machine. Not at all uncommon for this area of the machine to hang up if not adjusted properly.

Machine is a needle feed. The idea with a needle feed is that the piles of material will not shift while the needle is in the work as the goods are being transported. CLICK HERE for the operators guide for adjusting your 204-64, hope this helps, but also can be confusing all the same, the instructions are not exactly top notch.

Under bed trimmers on sewing machines have always been difficult to service.

See attached, it's likely the knee stopper highlighted index 2 is making contact before the knee lifter mechanism on the machine is. Also, the thrusting bar as they call it may be hitting and stopping at the bell crank, making it more like you are lifting the machine out of the stand rather than continuing to lift the bell crank up under the machine.

The collar for the presser spring is too high and going to bang into other stuff as you lift the presser foot. See attached image. With both presser feet bottomed out, outside on the plate and inside on the feed dog, loosen the collar screw and it will drop onto the bushing. Lift the bushing with a second flat head screw driver or something and lift the collar a few mm from the bushing and tighten the collar pinch screw so that it looks more like what is in the attached image.

When you say "lift", are you saying that the inside vibrating foot that the needle goes through and the outside, lifting foot are not rising equal or close to it during normal sewing?

There's a reason why Bob and I are explaining that poor quality bobbins are giving service issues for end users. For example, if you have a Juki 441 type machine and the side hole does not match up for your bobbin winder, it's a problem. If you have a box of 100 generic bobbins and have are snug fit on the bobbin winder shaft for about 30 bobbins while the other 70 are lose, it's a problem. But issues can go way beyond just winding a bobbin. If you have for example a top load, vertical axis hook, say on an LU-563 or LU-1508, if the outside diameter of the bobbin has a large enough gap while sitting inside of the bobbin case, the thread can pop out and get caught around the bobbin case latch, and jam up the machine. Incorrect bobbin dimensions also tend to over spin, a real problem say on an electronic machine that starts and stops quickly. Often an aluminum bobbin can also help as it has less weight. There are just so many times that a poor quality bobbin can be a problem.

206RB-1 parts book Helical gears top and bottom have gear covers that are packed in grease. Line up the two white dots on the left side of the handwheel with the white dot on the casting. If everything is adjusted correctly, this is the point where we remove the bobbin case. These dots are the one and only thing they are there for, in this case. See attached.

Unfortunately, not every machine supplier has an engineers manual for their machines, like many Juki machines do.

I can confirm that too. I've been having more and more problems with generic bobbins, and genuine tend to be pricey but are seeming to become more worth it. And it's not just about the bobbins that we are talking about in this one case.

This forum has always been a two way street for me, both learning and sharing.

That's likely 199RB, large bobbin, with a 22 needle and size 138 thread. This is a regular bobbin, largest size I would guess is a V69

DBX1, 16X231, 16X257 all denote the same needle. In some brand's system, above needle size eighteen the system changes to a 16X95, just to add to the confusion.

Too risky for what that old motor is worth.