TomG

Hi Eemo, I was referring to the problem of if you put the watch pin in on one end and then put the strap on, buckling it onto your wrist, the curve of your wrist will cause the other pin holder to move away from the watch. This is for 1-piece watch bands.

Nice. Do you have construction plans available?

Thanks Bob, Yup. I've seen some of those. They do look very strong, although I found them to be kinda stiff. But this customer is insistent on leather. Never used snoseal. Will it stop bleeding when the leather gets wet? He is wanting Chocolate Brown. Believe me, I've done everything short of refusing the order <g>.... But he's been warned. I'm just trying to make it all work.

I am making a collar for a dog that will be spending a lot of time in the water and the owner really wants the leather collar. We understands the downside and the maintenance he's going to need to do. Is there a finish that will waterproof and stop any chance of bleeding onto the dog's fur? Historically, I have used Resolene and occasionally Saddle Lac, but have never soak tested them, and don't have time to do it now. Thanks

Did you ever sell this? Im in Buford ga

When making a 1 piece strap with the flat loops for the pins, how do you all account for the curve around the wrist. If.I have the watch (seldom) it's not a problem. But when making from a measurement it's a sort of guess. I've been adding 5mm but not sure if there is a formula or something that will beore accurate. Tom

All the above is true. You need zero bounce or you may be making ghost impressions. If your leathers too wet, it will stamp easily but will mush the edges. Like Dwight said... a brief dunk, let it come back to looking dry but cool and stamp. Dunk.a test piece at the same time and try it first. You can always add a but of water with a sponge. Too dry and you can beat it until you die, and get no impression.

Kits depend... the only problem I have with kits, is I have seen some of the precut leather can be a little dry. And that wooden mallet sucks. The tools will be the same as on the Tandy shelf. Not top of the line, but sufficient to see if you are going to like the hobby. 5 stamps will cost as much as that starter set. You will also need a good slab of granite. And maybe a Poly mallet to start. Others will chime in on their opinions as well, I hope....

Tandy has a starter set for $50 (#55501-00). It has a few basic tools, a swivel knife, 4 projects, and some other stuff. One of the things you have to be careful of is the disease.... Buying tools you really don't need yet.. or will never need.. gets expensive fast. Oh.. No one has pointed out.. to carve or stamp, we use Veg-Tan leather. For garments, we use chrome-tan or other leathers. Where do you live?

Not really stressed. But a little lost at times. But I had a local mentor of sorts. And that was before I found the leatherworkers site. What equipment and supplies do you have?

The guitar case looks like one I think maybe Peter Main made? It looks familiar... The craigslist from Austin that you posted has been flagged for removal... Sorry you got your stuff bootlegged... But, Karma will get the AH...

Hey JubWub... That's sort of like saying "I want to go to the moon.. how do I build a rocket..." It's like anything else. You need a starting point. To start, you need to understand that there is stamping and there is carving. I would start with stamping to learn how the leather feels and acts during manipulation. Both require leather to be cased. There is an excellent thread on here about it. Get a few pieces of scrap from Tandy or Springfield, or a cheap shoulder or even a belly. Learn to case it. Get a few stamps. Practice using guide lines to stamp straight. Practice blending stamps to create designs. Get a medium brown oil based dye. Use alcohol or even water to dilute it to different shades of brown. Go to Tandy's website and do the free tutorials to see how to use most of the tools they sell. As Papaw said.. look at YouTube for some videos and tutorial. Then try the techniques. Good leatherwork can take years to perfect, but you can turn out "acceptable" work with some practice. Some folks are naturally talented.. others of us have to really concentrate and struggle with some aspects of it.... But there will always be some project that you can do to get enjoyment out of. And again.. like Papaw said.. As specific questions.. do searches here on specific questions.... many have already been answered. And don't give up!!

Yup.. Keen edge is OK.. And $30 cheaper than the Amazon one. Essentially the same tool

Nice bands. I do have a couple of questions. I've only made a couple of 2 ply straps and wasn't real happy with my quality. Mainly the stitching. 1) Do you make it oversize and trim it down after gluing together and then sew? 2) Do you hand sew or are you using a machine? 3) What weight thread did you use? 4) is there any benefit or difference between sewing across the strap at the pin or not? Thanks in advance.

I've been using a heavy duty utility knife for most cuts. I have a couple of head knives but am working on sharpening them (struggling is a better word). I have recently begun using a Stohlman brand curved trim knife for cuts that require curves. I'm finding that I can keep it against the edge of my guide or follow a curved line easier with that curved tip, than the flatter bulkier utility blade. I do need to work on sharpening it as well. I've stropped the fire out of it, but it needs a bit of touchup to be better.

I think the wrench may be a bicycle wrench.

E. is a tool to punch the holes for spots and stuff. I have one I bought new about 3 years ago. The bits are soft and need to be ground to size and hardened..

I use denatured, but most pharmacies carry the 90% stuff which will work. Some people even dilute with plain old tap water, but I haven't tried that. Experiment on some scrap first

Cut them 10 to 50% with Alcohol. They are almost always too dark out of the bottle. Plus, they will lighten up quite a bit as they dry.

Dwight, I have been using a folded rag and then even dab the rag on a paper before applying to the leather. I'm trying to avoid putting it on too thick. But maybe I'm putting it on too thin? Does the brush hold a lot like it would with paint?

I use Resolene. 2 coats. 3 is better. Dry 24 hours. Apply dye quickly. Don't "scrub" the dye into the resist or it will get blOtchy. Results will vary. Or, if you have a steady hand, use the latex mask stuff. Do a search for it here. Tom

The mod will not slow it down lower than its lowest speed. It does make the control of that speed smoother and easier to sew slowly. As others said, 2" or smaller pulley and speed reducer, combined with the mod you found, is the way to go.

Do a search here or on YouTube. There are a number of threads on how to do this. You didn't say what make and model of servo motor, what size pullet you have now. Usually anything beyond using the smallest pulley involves making a modified interrupter paddle for the optical control.

I think the white is only good for touchup on things like white nurses shoes and such. I sure does stink though!

Just saw my post created 2 entries.. Weird. Just dyed 2 more straps and they still look blotchy. My dye tubs are in the garage and cold. Hmm.. I wonder how temp affects the dye. Cold dye - warm leather??