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Ferg

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Everything posted by Ferg

  1. Randy, Clean it up a little. Get the rust off, extra grease, etc. You can get $600 for it when it looks real nice:) ferg
  2. My comment was not intended to get your "dander" up. When you post info pertaining to a new site you should have it more finished than you have at this point. You should state the date/dates your upgrades will be active. Sunday and/or Monday can be misconstrued. All of us get excited about doing new things or setting up a new web site. You just jumped the gun a little. ferg
  3. If that is your site it needs some serious work. ferg
  4. Goodsjapan is a great company to work with. I have not tried the block planes for skiving. I can see several problems. The blade would need to be extremely sharp and kept that way of course. Holding the piece of leather would present a problem I believe. Angle of blade would be critical also. If you decide to try it, make sure you let the rest of us know how it worked. ferg
  5. This may help. Your size of thread may be a little large for that weight leather, consequently a smaller needle. Is the thread between the tension discs or riding on the edge? Have you been sewing this weight leather before, or just now? Presser foot adjustment? Just some possibilities. ferg
  6. Kevin, I don't think you will have much trouble with dye after some practice. Finish that is much more than water consistency might be a problem. You know that old "fall back" try it on scrap!!! ferg
  7. We use a very large converter in our shop. If you only have the one piece of equipment that is three phase, by all means install a single phase. Make sure you get correct horse power. ferg quote name='Yanni' timestamp='1344508719' post='259856'] Thanks Mike, Would it be safer to have a single phase motor installed instead?
  8. Blade on scroll saw has an up and down motion. It would lift your leather off the table unless it was held down plus you would get a rough edge on up stroke. ferg
  9. Anet,

    We have missed you. Got some fabulous work to share?

    ferg

  10. Tandy has it. Comes as you pictured and also with a solid side with the mesh. ferg
  11. I would try the stirrup plate on some scrap. I think it will work. The plate Bob is making for me won't have the rise in it. You realize with the stirrup plate you lose some of your leather thickness ability. ferg
  12. Kevin, Bob is making a slotted plate for my Seiko. He may have one in stock for your 4500. I have one for my Consew flat bed. Have used it a lot especially for soft/and or thin leather. ferg
  13. Dwight, That isn't a special order blade. We used to buy bulk blade, I have a blade welder. Remember the width of the blade determines how short the radius you can cut. Check this: http://www.doallsawing.com/products_detail.aspx?idcategory=saw%20blades&idsubcategory=knife%20edge&idproduct=DOALL030 ferg
  14. That is pretty light. Biggest problem is attaching a strap to the thin leather. It doesn't do real well and can pull stitches or metal attachments right out of the gusset. ferg
  15. Until an idiot neighbor decided his relation could hunt "MY" deer a couple years ago, we had 26 at one time within 25 yards of our log home. I named a few and could talk them into posing for photos. Also eight antlered bucks at one time, stunningly beautiful. We now see one small doe at the salt block. Sick! ferg
  16. JoAnn Fabric has a pretty good selection of foam. I assume that you know it is not cheap. Most urban areas has a store close by. ferg
  17. A Seiko cylinder arm. I had to elongate one hole in the guide about .5 mm so both screws would tighten. Before working on the hole I tried the guide with one screw, posed no problems. Love the doggone thing. I talked to a gentleman at the business to make sure which guide would work best. BTW: I didn't need to do anything to the machine. ferg
  18. I am doing a purse for my wife that has some gentle and not so gentle outside curves. Decided to use the straight guide from kwokhing. Worked beautifully. Sewed with about 8spi, slowly around the corners. Never skipped a stitch. ferg
  19. Your method works fine on long edges, when you need to do inside corners and such, the large diameter doesn't work. ferg
  20. I have #1 and #3, they work okay. I also have from kwokhing, they are the best. Mine had both straight and the round. ferg
  21. Bob Covar has a number of binder attachments for many types of machines. His banner appears at top of these pages. ferg
  22. Are you planning to carve/stamp your projects? You will need at least 5-6 ounce veg tanned. Get a shoulder if you want all thickness to be nearly same weight. A back will give you some thinner leather in spots you can use for card holders. The garment leather is fine for some purse designs with no tooling. Buy ready made wallet/purse liners, you won't need another leather to line. Large carved purses do best with 6-8ounce veg tanned. ferg quote name='RunKittyRun' timestamp='1343255842' post='257923'] For wallets I think you want something like 3-4 ounce veg tanned. Springfield leather will sell you a smaller, like 5 sq ft. piece. You're also going to want some lining leather like pig or sheep in the 1 ounce range. Straps would be best with latigo or harness leather I think, For bags and such you'd want a 3-4 ounce garment leather. That would be chrome tanned. It's softer.
  23. I am sorry you had a bad experience with the servo. I have a Consew rb5 and a Seiko cylinder arm, both have servo motors, one from Bob one from Consew. They both work perfectly. I have plenty of torque at every speed in almost everything I have tried to sew. That is why I suggested the servo. If you bought the servo from any of the dealers that frequent this forum I am sure they will almost stand on their heads to get you going correctly. If you bought the servo off e-bay, what can I say? ferg
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