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Ferg

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Everything posted by Ferg

  1. Best..... Tools: 75% of my stamping tools are mid-fifties. Remainder are of the high priced variety. My SK3 swivel knife and the Knipers round knife will never leave my bench. Machinery: Consew and Seiko, pretty much the same company, are my sewing machines. Flatbed and cylinder arm. Cloned Fortuna Skiving Machine. My Wife: The best any man could ever have. She seldom complains about all the machinery I have bought over the years and I receive at least one kiss and a big hug every day. Worst: Some will hate me, I see little use for most so-called "Green" products. Unfortunately that includes most of the stains and finishes Tandy sells now. Buying leather from companies I know nothing about.. Hardware I have that is so outdated it is pathetic but still made. At least 50% of current Tandy tools are junk. I bought several. ferg
  2. Not a cheap alternative but..... I just happened to have a piece of Corian Solid Surface material left from a cabinet job. My table was one of the first Computer workstation units which we didn't use anymore. I cut a piece of 3/4" X 4' X 8' MDF and attached it to the table top. The Corian was about 3' X 8'. I simply laid it on top. Since this material is quite dense it doesn't move around and makes a fabulous cutting surface plus when it gets too scarred I can sand it and have a new surface. Area the Corian does not cover on the table kakes a great place to lay the various metal rulers etc. ferg
  3. I have two sewing machines, flatbed and cylinder arm. Both have the same Servo Motor and speed reducer. The speed reducer enables the servo to maintain a more stable degree of power at whatever speed you desire to use. I love it. Have used mine enough that I increase the speed considerably on straight runs but I still like to sew fairly slow, makes it a lot easier for us old men to know where the needle is going. ferg
  4. A couple photos to show you how I do this. Keep in mind that this is just done with some scraps using my new Skiving Machine. May illustrate a little better than trying to explain. The edges are skived to as near half the thickness of the leather piece you are using so when you fold the edge back and glue it down the edge is the same thickness as original. This method can be used to roll the edges of purses, wallets, belts, dog collars, watch bands, etc. ferg
  5. With the force you need to cut the leather just a slight deflection of the steel plate will result in incomplete cut. ferg
  6. I think all of you are making this to be a lot more difficult than it is. The dark colored piece has the edges skived so the roll is fairly thin. The red piece is skived very thin on the edges, glued, and rolled. You then glue the red piece to the dark after the dark has been rolled and glued. Stitching through everything with a contrasting thread makes the piece both attractive and strong. No edges to burnish. ferg
  7. You definitely need the steel plate on the bottom and it should be 1/2" thick both top and bottom. Air assist over hydraulic arbor presses can be had but I have not tried one. Gives you an idea of how much force the clickers have to cut leather as easily as they do. ferg
  8. Just my .02 I have no problem with the brake, anywhere, it may be because I sew slower than some. Anyway my speed dial and peddle seem to like each other. I can barely touch the peddle and it releases the brake enough to free wheel. Perhaps Wiz's suggestion of loosening the bolt on the brake just slightly might be all you need. ferg
  9. Excellent information, Thank You. ferg
  10. Ferg

    Tannery Row

    An update to my original post: I communicated with Eric via e-mail. I wanted some samples of a leather they have and received them promptly. I will most likely buy from them again. Their leathers are so extremely beautiful, I simply have to have some even if I don't know exactly what I want to do with it. ferg
  11. Cheryl, I understand where you are coming from, but...... There are folks that like to make things for themselves and are capable and have the equipment to do so. Most have little desire to manufacture the Mauls and sell them. From experience in our family business, many folks have tried to emulate what we do, they quite often simply do not "get it". Lots of work and many hours devoted. We have done our thing for over 35 years now. Been copied by the major manufacturers, very few if any still make the product. Bearman has a Niche market, he and his son do their "thing" very well. I wouldn't worry too much about this if I were you. ferg
  12. Ray, There is a man in St Augustine, Florida using the Cowboy 4500 to make "Flip-Flops/sandles. I spoke with him last February while there but I do not remember the name of his shop. I imagine if you wish, a call to the Chamber of Commerce in St. Augustine would present his phone and e-mail. He was in the "Quaint" shops where there are many. ferg
  13. From experience having to move large heavy machinery. Hire an industrial moving company to do the move. Won't be cheap but they have insurance to cover damage etc. You can save money by having everything ready for them to load. Time is money ferg
  14. I have researched a bunch of these machines, Have decided on the Fortuna with top and bottom feed. I have found the single feed machines to be good for one or the other types of skiving. Bottom feed is pretty good for veg tan, top and bottom feed will do pretty much anything you wish to try. Call Bob at Toledo Industrial Machines, you won't be disappointed. ferg
  15. Nice clean site. You have done a good job. Sorry, I am in Ohio. LOL ferg
  16. Nice job. Good design and excellent workmanship. I like your edge. I am liking this method and rolled edges more and more. Shows "CLASS". FERG
  17. Tandy has this: Polyester Lining Cloth w-Coating Very thin and does the trick. You can get with a backing also, not much thicker or heavy. ferg
  18. I wind my bobbins very fast, have servos on both of my machines. ferg
  19. Arbalet, As I have said many times, You are a fine artist, sculptor, and leather aficionado. Your work simply cannot be listed as "Leather Craft". An old man I am. Have seen many pieces of art that are fabulous, I shall always remember your work as one of the very best I have witnessed. Good luck and please keep at it. ferg
  20. Wrong side of the bed this morning? LOL ferg
  21. Marlon, That is very nice, beautiful pattern. As you may know I would see something. I realize you probably done this on purpose but, I prefer the background to be more "blended" in lieu of the strict pattern of the backgrounder. Just my .02 ferg
  22. May I suggest you type "Singer 251-12" in Google? Loads of info along with a You Tube video. ferg
  23. Make a binding of matching or contrasting leather, preferably chrome tanned. Cut a strap of leather 1/2" plus the thickness of the leather edge you are going to cover. You will need to skive this binding to very little more than a 1/64" in thickness. Scribe a line 1/4" from the edge of the leather, glue with contact cement just to that line over the edge and onto the back side. Obviously glue the binding piece you have made. Allow to dry for 20 minutes or so before applying to the edge. Stitch the binding 1/8" from the edge that is next to the scribed line. Smooth edge that will last the life of the purse. ferg
  24. Tandy and others carry a lining material specifically for wallets and other small articles that you can get with a bonded side. I like to use Kangaroo for lining or I have used some 2-3oz upholstery leather. ferg
  25. Any particular reason you didn't burnish the edges? What finish did you apply? ferg
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