Ferg

A quick search provides this info: Adler 105 -64105-64 N/F W/F Cylinder Heavy duty fabrics and leather Saddles and harness work It seems most heavy duty machines such as this do not handle light weight leather well at all. Wiz or some other individuals can fill in more info. ferg

Problem with the metal brake..... The bar that presses the edge of the leather down needs to go all the way down plus adjustable for thickness of the leather you are folding. Hold-down is located about an inch from the folding edge of the leather. That dimension would be determined by the thickness of the presser bar. Metal brakes of the type HF has aren't adjustable as accurately as would be need for leather. ferg

Chris, I am one that hates PayPal. I think it is a total rip-off. I sold an item awhile back, sent an invoice to the customer, they paid from that invoice. The transaction cost over $20.00. Bought an item, it was requested I pay via PayPal, I reluctantly have an account. They charged me $7.95. I absolutely refuse to use them unless there is no other way. ferg

Try this company: http://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=parts_pfaff Actual page: http://www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/aokko5oe.pdf You do know that machine is an upholstery machine? ferg

I do not intend my remarks to be demeaning in any way so please do not take it that way. The knives on old splitters are very often in poor condition. That is: they have been ground so many times they are too narrow and edge nicks make them almost impossible to use without changing the blade. Also have been ground to the wrong shape/angle. I would give you $200 for the splitter if you don't get any better offers. You may PM me. ferg

FYI I contacted the folks that tan the Vachetta Leather. They regrettably do not have a distributor in the states. Another company that uses it is Dooney & Burke (spelling) They make some beautiful ladies purses for mucho money. ferg

Will let you know. Leaving for two weeks in Florida in a few days. Probably work on it when we get back. ferg

Andrew, It looks to be made similar to a "Metal Brake". I have been thinking about building one. I have some 1/2" thick aluminum that would work. Probably make a prototype of wood first. ferg

Your loss of a limb is/can be horrible but don't let that sway you on the "Electrified" machine. You can lift the presser feet/needle bar with your left hand when necessary. Almost all leather machines have Servo Motors, the control is fantastic. Bob Kovar can give you minute instructions on his machines as will any of the other suppliers. That simply is not a problem. You have a "One UP" on some of us since you live in "God's Country". ferg

Yaaah! I try to remember that also but the gray matter doesn't register all the time so I have to wipe it off with a paper towel after I screw something up. LOL ferg

You probably need to adjust the foot pressure. I try to adjust so the leather still moves and the machine doesn't skip any stitches. It is a fine line to adjust. ferg

I try to print out any posts by these guys when pertaining to different situations etc. concerning the machines. One of these days I will put them in a binder with each persons name on the front. Notice I said one of these days. ferg

We were at Toledo Sewing Machines last week. Bob has several shelves full of thread of various sizes and colors. Give him a call, might just have what you need. ferg

Kevin, My following question is out of curiosity, nothing more. I know many folks have the Boss, most seem to like it. Why would you spend as much as they cost for a machine that you have to pull a handle for every cottin-pickin stitch when a cylinder arm machine would do what you wish to do in a heart beat with a lot less physical movement? LOL The CA wouldn't cost much more either, if any. ferg

That wouldn't be my solution since electrical tape has a nasty habit of leaking adhesive if it happens to be exposed to heat, that is like "Sun Shine". Just cut a piece of suede to fit the inside of the closed end. ferg

Kevin, Read everything on here that Wiz, Bob Kovar, Steve, Ron, and many others have written about sewing with a machine. An absolute fount of information. ferg

If the leather hasn't a soft side such as suede, it will rub nasty little marks in the lens. ferg

Jeremiah Watt, Lonnie at Hackbarth. ferg

Are you thinking "Pricking Iron" ? I have one that has never been used, #8. Paid a little over $100 will sell for $90. ferg

Terry, We don't get to many shows anymore but I am sure you will have a successful one. I have used my new "Chan Geer" several times and I love it plus it is a beautiful piece of work. Here is wishing you and your family, nothing but the best. ferg

I would think twice about"Maverick Leather" since there is a company selling leather with that name. I have worked in wood all my life, then I decided to do stained glass, sand carved glass, Sublimation, along with leather work for most of my life. Complicates things like company names. Our most well known company is Apple Valley Woodcrafts, thirty plus years, that doesn't fit the others very well. How about "Ron's Artistry Studios". When you do business cards and the like, you can have sub-titles of what you do. Might give you some food for thought. ferg

Looks good to me and sounds like a good idea. One caveat, make sure you don't allow the leather to touch the lens. ferg

I bought several stamps from Lonnie, they are excellent tools. I suggested to him they put the name as well as the tool number at each tool photo in his little catalog. I haven't checked for awhile but I guess he hadn't the time to do that last time I checked. ferg

We used to build commercial cabinets and furniture, used many many gallons of contact cement, namely latex. I find using the latex contact for leather work edges doesn't work too well because of it's color, ours was green. Before using the latex we used 3M solvent based and many gallons of it also. Never thinned one ounce of it. I use it for leather because the color just blends in. Solvent based contact cement seems to age very quickly when you open the can repeatedly, latex does not. Aging makes the glue get stiff as you know. Place your can of glue beside a heat register, NOT ON IT !!!!! The stuff will burn. Just enough to get it warm, remembering that prolonged heating will dry it out. You just need to get it room temperature. I spread with a stiff brush or plastic "squeegee". Works for me. My thoughts on thinning? Probably weakens the holding power. ferg