Ferg

I love the "Whimsical" design that you managed to render very well. The card wallets are a nifty idea but I wouldn't want anyone to have it on the outside of their purse. I like your color work because it adds to the design quality. If you were to use deep colors I think it would be an entirely different outlook. Clever design and excellent stitching. ferg

Don't want you to feel under-privelege. I simply do not understand the skulls, among a few other adornments either. You have to remember at almost 78 years young, I come from a totally different "revolution". I think I am maybe, offended by some of the way over the edge stuff. Skulls with swords protruding, blood dripping, you get the idea. I used to do sand blasting of glass mostly. I never did understand why someone would want a Dragon character shooting flame on their shower door. LOL Chris, I admire your expertise and always feel that your "weird" items are done in very good taste. That has to come from your background in "Carved" Art. ferg

Aaron, I am curious, why are you reloading the page? I am on a Mac, I can click on the "back" arrow and return to where I left off. Very little time involved. ferg

I can only think of one "pieve" I have about the forum site. During the day I may have a few minutes to see if anything is in the forum that I would like to read but not have time until later. If I scan the subjects and return same day the posts I was interested in are gone. I know, I can look in the Archives Can this be changed from instantaneous, or nearly so to perhaps 24 hours? Just a thought. ferg

I have a #609-8. Total width is 1 1/4". Marks will be 1/4" from tip to tip, spaced 5/32" apart. This tool will mark eight stitches, seven spaces. My tool has never been used, I have absolutely no use for it at this time and would be glad to sell. If you are interested please PM me. ferg

I have spent the last half hour trying to think of the name of the cotton material I buy at JoAnn Fabrics stores. It comes in several densities, it is white. I don't use the one that has to be Ironed on/fused. I glue right to the leather or fabric. I have a total brain freeze on the name but I am sure a clerk in a store will know what you are wanting. ferg

You do realize of course, you can buy the transparency material rather cheaply for either Laser or Ink Jet. You could print thousands of patterns from one laser toner cartridge, not as much from an Ink Jet cartridge. I bet it would cost you less than $1.50 per sheet. BTW: There are probably a thousand pieces of software that will do the little "Gibs" Office Depot provides, quite a few are free. ferg

Your URL takes me to an ad for cleaning my MAC, please give a better rendition. ferg

We love photos of leather work. Please do post some you may have. There are many Saddle people on here that I am sure will know what to tell you. ferg

IF, you can get Leather needles for it you could sew 2-3 oz veg tanned. It is obviously a home machine that was never intended for leather. I have sewn with a leather needle on a home machine but it works them to death even on the thin leathers. This one will probably work you to death. ferg

One Note: Your needle is way to big for #69 thread. Try from a #18 or #20. Thread the needle in your hand, hold at an angle, if needle "waddles" down the thread easily, that is your sizing, thread and needle. ferg

I have seen someone sew across in a "V" pattern. Makes sense to me. ferg

This may not go over too big with you but anyhow Sew as close to the buckle as you can, up one side and down the other, Hand stitch across the strap at the buckle. If need be begin in the last machine stitch, hand sew to the buckle and across the strap even with your machine stitch and down that side to the last stitch. Tie off your hand stitching. Another way is to simply stitch across the strap at the buckle beginning with a "wrapped stitch" on the edge, stitch across strap to stitch line and do another "Wrapped Stitch" .This is strong and attractive even if it does take a little longer. This is a small photo but perhaps you can get the idea for the "Wrapped Stitch" from it. ferg

Only problem I have with running the stylus or a modeling tool in the cut is, it seems to make the inner layer of the cut show more than I like. Appears as a lighter shade of leather. Might make it a little easier to bevel when first starting with leather work. ferg

I have ordered a ball end mill that is .0625 diameter that is made for milling Stainless. It should do a lot better job than the Chinese Dremel tools. Thanks , ferg

I have no thoughts of making one or more of these tools that even come close to Bob Beard's expertise. I am an impatient individual and have a problem with waiting a year for a tool that I may be able to make. I used a half inch round piece of Stainless Steel. Filed the end perfectly flat and then put a radius on the edges of the flat so the abrupt edges would not make an imprint on the leather. First photo shows the radius and the flat on one side. The flat makes it possible to align with an edge line etc. Next photo shows the tool used along a border and into the field. I tried making the tool without rounding the face, Mr. Beard is absolutely correct, you cannot tool a background with a flat head on the backgrounder. I am sure you would like to see what the business end of the tool looks like. Be aware, I done this free hand and then put the dremel bit in the drill press, much easier. Made little effort to make this perfectly smooth after drilling the dimples. I will make more different sizes of dimples next time. The little Dremel tool diamond bits had a tough time with the Stainless Steel but they are almost perfect size. Didn't use cutting oil when drilling but did lubricate with machine oil. Extremely simple to make. Anyone with a little machining experience could do these very easily. Just thought you would like to see. ferg

I am confused by your post. I live 50 miles away from you and have no problem buying spirit or oil based dyes for leather. Visit Feibings site. Someone living in that other country called "California" cannot buy. LOL ferg

You are correct, simply washing an object with water does not completely neutralize the vinegar but it does indeed dilute it to the extent that it offers no detrimental effects. As I said in my previous post, "Allow the leather to dry completely before applying finishes or dyes." I can find a thousand things in everyday life that could hinder a person's health. Unfortunately today, folks are so immunized against so many things that we ate when I was a kid. They would probably kill half the population now. Use common sense folks. I like to think most Leather folks are at least a little smarter than the average Joe/Jerry. ferg

You are doing a relatively good job. The beveling is much better in second photo than first so we can assume you are getting better Cut your finger nails very short. Use a modeling tool to rub out the scratches while the leather is still pliable. Practice, practice, practice. Words we bandy about constantly. ferg

Welcome to the forum. You will find thousands of help notes in the Archives, may take several hours to read them all but.... Better get started. ferg

As always, welcome to the best leather forum in the world. You will find this site has members that share their knowledge willingly. Also many of the most talented leather carvers etc. anywhere. ferg

Dilute 4 to 1, water to vinegar. Stubborn stains increase vinegar. Yes, it does need to be washed with clean water to neutralize the vinegar. Make sure your leather has dried thoroughly before applying finishes and/or dye. ferg

Oxalic Acid has never been a problem for me. White vinegar diluted in water will obtain the same results as lemon juice. Vinegar seems to be a little stronger solution. ferg

Nice job. Your design is clean and well done. The more I see of the lined, geometric work, as you have done on the back, the more I like it. ferg

Bob, That is excellent. I have done some but not as many words as yours. The Arbor Press will imprint the lettering also. ferg