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Ferg

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Everything posted by Ferg

  1. Dan, I like your holster work. The stitching needs some work. I suppose someone will get on my tail for bringing this up, it is hot and I am sick of perspiring all the time. Your needle foot is pressing too hard on the leather. Don't know what machine you are using but they can all be adjusted. If that foot isn't so dad gummed tight on the leather you won't get the "Tracks" as bad and you can make the turns and stay off the close edges. Obviously there is more to it than just this but trust me it is worth the time and effort to get rid of those damn tracks. ferg
  2. Never been to their place of business but did buy some leather from them last year. A beautiful piece of 8/9 oz cow hide, factory dyed Cordovan. Seems I bought a couple other pieces from them with no complaints on quality or service. That is shipping from Cal. to Ohio. ferg
  3. Ed, I am reminded when I was doing consulting on building Log Homes. A gentleman wanted to build a log home in New Orleans. I strongly advised against it but he wanted to do it anyway. Possible water level in a storm was 10 to 12 feet, a garage was out of the question. Home rested on concrete piers that were sunk 20 feet into the soil with prestressed concrete beams over those piers that also stood about 14 feet above the ground. I have always said, "That is wanting to live in a Log Home really, really, bad." Ours is on high ground in Ohio and in the woods. LOL ferg
  4. I don't think there is any doubt of the quality and abilities of the Pfaff machines. That said: I own the Consew 206RB5 and I love it. Have done upholstery but no garment leather. Regardless of what you sew with it I would recommend that you use the Servo motor, that will offset your cost difference somewhat. I have had no issues with "sticky" leather but I have not had time nor the funds to try every type leather available. My machine was one manufactured in Japan, the head weighs in at a little over 70#. I have perused and in some instances taken portions of mine apart just to see how it works. Cannot find anything that is not properly made or looks to be inferior. Hope this helps a little. ferg
  5. All my life I have been awed by the connections between children and animals in general. When a small child we were exposed to very large horses, them being draft horses. I am still enamored by the beautiful beast. Great photo. I have a copy of a famous painting that is similar. ferg
  6. I think your wallets are priced about right. Your belt price is too low. Gun show enthusiasts have money to spend on quality product. If you continue to make belts that are that nice, at least make the sale price $65. An aside: My Son-in-Law does custom carved wood grips for S&W guns. Don't know positively that he will be there but if my daughter doesn't stop him he will. LOL "Keith Brown Grips.com" Anyone in the USA and elsewhere knows him. If you are at any of the gun tables just ask if they know him and if you can see any of his work. He does some of the finest carving on grips I have ever seen. That isn't because he is my Son-in-Law. ferg
  7. If you do not have a copy of Al Stohlman's "Pictorial Carving Finesse" get it. I think you will find a lot of what you need in this book. ferg
  8. Nice job on your stitching and design. Any particular reason you didn't use pear shading in the flower petals? Just curious. ferg
  9. I know you didn't ask for a critique but.... First, I think your wallets are very nice and clean looking. One caveat that you are probably aware of, your machine's needle foot is pressing too hard on the leather. Your product would be even better if you can work that out. Your machine should have an adjustment for the foot pressure. Lighten/raise the foot as much as possible and still have the piece move properly. I have experimented with placing what I have to stitch in thickness (waste piece) under the foot when the feed dogs are all the way up. When the leather is just snug under the needle foot your impressions on the leather will be minimal. Make sure the leather is moving through correctly so your stitches stay consistent. When all else fails, use a large modeling tool. Rubbing over the impressions will eliminate most. When I sew leather that is a finish piece on both sides I use a smooth needle plate and smooth feet, ferg
  10. It seems you have not used an awl to stitch. First off you use a marking wheel/tool and learn to hold the awl at the correct angle. You can be assured using a good awl, I don't recommend one from Tandy, get a good one, you can pierce a lot of leather. There is a definite plus to hand stitching using an awl when you learn to use it properly, it is beautiful and satisfying. ferg
  11. I have been preaching these principles of workmanship for years. I will not allow anything I made that I consider inferior out of my sight. Which means I throw away a lot of "stuff". That is just the way it is. ferg
  12. Kevin, I have the parts list and diagram for the 5 in 1. Shoe Plus informed they have 9 of 12 parts of the mechanism for the welt roller. Are you ready for this? $700.00 There is a guard at the cutter that is broken, they want $94.50 for that. Skiving blade and Cutter round blade is in stock and they are not too bad in price. Will get them either from them or Pilgrim's. Needless to say the machine is going to be a 3 in 1 when I get finished with it. Seems that is what it was intended to be anyway. ferg
  13. Bruce, There is a Skiver Fork Adjusting Screw/Bolt with a nut on top. I tried to adjust the Fork with that but there is so much paint on the threads of the bolt that it won't move. As you can see I have some cleanup to do. My wife took one look at it and said,"What is that supposed to do?" She should know that ever since I tore the CNC two head Router apart about a week after getting it , that anything is possible. Thanks, ferg
  14. Welcome to the best and biggest Leather Forum on the Web. There are many posts on the forum about making concealed carry leather. Read all you can from here and ask questions, you will have many. Do start with Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes. ferg
  15. Bruce, I have found several things that need "fixing". I bought it with the idea of refurbishing so I didn't expect it to be perfect. You are correct about the blade angle adjustment. Thickness adjustment has me befuddled at the moment. I think placement of the skiving knife in reference to the rollers, close/farther away may be the adjustment for thickness. Blade is in terrible shape. Has been ground poorly plus a big knick in the edge. I am ordering a new one and will get someone to grind the old one true for me, don't think my grinder will hold it correctly. I have no idea how you could cut leather straight with the cutter but then that cutter is bad also. ferg
  16. Frank, How 'bout $225 and I will pay the postage sent to me via Priority Mail in a Post Office mailer box. The small box of theirs should fit them I think. ferg
  17. I have purchased a Fayscott Landis 5 in 1 Model 25 that I want to refurbish. I am enclosing some photos of the machine. Main problem I have? The fifth function is not on the machine. The Welt Roller mechanism is missing but when I removed the bolt covering the space for this, the bolt and cover had never been removed since coming from the factory. Undercoat etc. still around the bolt and plate. There are a few things the machine definitely needs and the welt roller would be nice to have since it is a Shoe Sole item. No manual seems to exist unless in Bruce Johnson's shop. I have given "Shoe Systems Plus, Inc." my list of parts I would like. They have some parts but not all. I downloaded a parts list and diagram of the machine from their site. Prices forthcoming. Anyone have one, know anything about them, know why there isn't a welt roller on mine, you get the idea.
  18. Ferg

    Singer 29K60

    Good luck. ferg
  19. You can wet a sponge and apply to the leather but you need it to begin returning to original shade/color before stamping. You may find that this simple and quick process gives you questionable results, just keep that in mind. I have done it and on occasion it works okay but other times the impression of the letter stamp is very shallow. Try on several pieces of scrap. Time the different semi drying times. That will give you some idea anyhow. I am not hot (no pun intended) on using a heated blower, it tends to make the leather a little hard. Leather is natural remember. ferg
  20. You case the leather before stamping. If you are unfamiliar with that process there are many post concerning that. Bob Park (hidepounder) has one of the best explanations. ferg
  21. Eric, As KingsX says, If the style of lacing you do isn't full coverage of the edge you should definitely burnish and finish them. ferg
  22. I have the wooden item. Haven't had occasion to cut as wide as you are but I have my wife hold the end of the leather as I pull the cutter away from her. For one reason or another it seems I can cut 3 or 4 straps from same piece of leather then I need to use the straight edge again. Probably just me. ferg
  23. I've got to know, where in the world did you find all this? Don't have to answer that of course. LOL ferg
  24. You hit the mother load with this. I have the Ken Griffin book. ferg
  25. If you have a Glass Shop close by you just might get a "Cut-Off" from a job they done recently. The advantage to the auto glass, it is tempered. ferg
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