Ferg

The Consew 206RB5 is a flat bed machine that will sew 3/8" leather thickness with a servo motor. You could sew light weight holsters and some purses. I think you need a long arm machine. ferg

Hi Kevin, Our main family business begins Christmas in July and runs through most of the following January. Your idea for the tambourine case sounds interesting. Have you considered stitching around it by hand? Bob Park has some beautiful rope cans. That is where I would look for inspiration. Bob is always generous with information. If he isn't too busy he just might jump in here with some thoughts. ferg

You folks have my curiosity stirred up. Is this piece really usable? Only something you use occasionally? Final question, does it really work? i am guessing it would take a steady hand so you don't gouge too deep. ferg

I know absolutely nothing about your particular machine but, you need help so just maybe a different idea? When I have had the problem you are having it is usually one of about three things. No. 1 Your machine is not threaded correctly No. 2 Your thread has slipped out of place on a sprocket/tensioner, might even down behind the mechanism. No. 3 The tension on the machine is totally out of whack. I would start from ground "Zero" on both top and bottom tension (if the machine has both). Adjust the tension about 1/4 turn on both or leave the bottom alone and do this on top tensioner only. Sew a few stitches, check to see what is happening, another 1/4 turn, sew, check. I became so disgusted when I couldn't get my machine to sew correctly that I finally just took the tensioners to zero and started all over. After fussing and fuming several times I hit the right spot. Wiz has taught me a lot about my machine and others. If I never learn anything else about the Consew I have, there is a "SWEET SPOT" when you hit that you need to do very little adjusting on most thicknesses of leather or layers of leather. ferg

My family, from great greats to present, lived/live within 6 to 10 miles of Wright Patterson Air Force Base, Dayton, Ohio. I have fond memories of my dad taking us kids to see the planes take off from Patterson Field at beginning of WW II. Wright Field and Patterson Field were separate then. We always felt great pride in knowing those guys and gals were protecting us. ferg

First point of contention: You really need to work on your beveling. If you are having trouble getting the hang of moving the beveler as you tap it, at least use a modeler and smooth the bevels you have. You selected one of the most difficult Basket Weave designs out of a bunch. Practice on some scrap leather before doing a "Keeper". Next to edge lines aren't very good. Some of your work looks like the leather may have been too wet when you knifed it as well as stamping. If you are using fairly thin leather, use a thicker swivel knife blade. That makes your knife marks wider without cutting deeper. ferg

For a first belt you done well. Practice using your tools on scrap. Alignment off here and there. I personally like the Basket Weave done with a border line. The basket weave in the first pic doesn't look quite finished. ferg

Campbell Randall may have the needle chart, they have much information on their site. ferg

I researched the Pricking Irons until my head hurt. I finally bought one just to see how the darn things are actually made. #1 conclusion: Pricking Irons are not intended for "PUNCHING" the stitching holes, only to mark the spaces and slant for the awl. #2 Conclusion: Pricking Chisels, Stitching Chisels, etc. are intended to punch the sewing holes through several layers of leather if need be, no awl necessary. Main problem with the chisels? The holes started to close before you got around the item you were sewing, need to open the slots with an awl anyway. The Pricking Irons are not sharp on the end as a chisel. The stitching is supposed to cover the marks left by the Irons but they are so big you need to rub them out with a modeling tool or similar. Doing so all around the item leaves the area you rubbed out at a different texture than the opposite edge considering that you kept the stitches to one side or the other. If you center the stitches on the marks it helps but with smaller thread you have two lines of marks to rub out. So, I have a Pricking Iron I have absolutely no use for to remind me of how expensive it is sometimes to declare I didn't need it to begin with. My hands are getting so crippled up that I simply cannot hand sew anymore unless it is absolutely necessary. I do love to do it. I am back to, "LEARN the skill of placing the awl at the correct angle on the dots made by a stitching wheel." ferg

I don't understand what you are wanting to gather from a close-up. This is a close up of the iron I have.

I have a C S Osborne 609-8 pricking iron. It is 1 1/4" wide (32mm), eight teeth which are 3.5mm wide set on the correct angle. I have never used it because after paying a little over $100 USD I just couldn't bring myself to grinding it down to a better tooth width. I hunted for them for a long time. Finally decided it was time to learn to use the diamond awl and a stitch marking wheel. Managed to get pretty good at it, then decided to purchase my Consew machine. Haven't done any hand sewing since. ferg

I spent all my life in a Farm Family. I know how frugal folks can be. Good luck with your venture. Ask the folks you see at your table what they would most likely buy if you had it. ferg

Wow! I must be using a lot of oil. I check my machine every time I am ready to do any sewing. Any surface that appears to be the slightest bit dry gets oiled. Machine has a metal pan to catch drips of oil. I watched a lady sewing chair covers. She started the machine about 1/2" (3 stitches) away from the actual edge of material. She done three reverse stitches from the start then sewed forward over those. I have been doing that and find that I have less problem with cutting the thread. Larger needles, such as you are using, probably compound the problem. Are your stitches tight inside the leather layer or layers? If machine is sewing with insufficient tension the thread that was first applied to the needle hole may get caught when you reverse. You do hold onto the thread that is in the needle when you begin your stitching I assume. ferg

I find that my machine doesn't tolerate Barge cement too well when I am sewing upholstery leather with a pre-glued seam. Assuming that the thread gets caught by the adhesive so as the needle withdraws it is sticky and causes some problems with the tension. In my experience you should not need to reset tension simply because you cross a seam with additional layers. You may need to adjust for "Middle of the road" tension. ferg

I would need to vote for Al Stohlman books, any and all, depending on what you wish to work on at any given time. Some of today's professionals smirk at Al's artistic and carving ability, I think there are literally thousands of folks doing excellent leather work just because of this man and his wife. ferg

Tandy's new Leather Library site has this pattern set for $3.99. Be aware: there are 48 pages. Unfortunately they have included "Tiled" pages in among the very large pages in the .pdf. Sort out which you want to download before hitting the download button. ferg

You will need something besides pictures if you expect to get any measurable business. My wife and I have been selling product wholesale for 35 years. We tried everything you can imagine to get business. To be successful in the leather business or any other entity that requires you to manufacture a product, there must never be any thing but your best out there. Sometimes your best isn't good enough, get used to it. We have been manufacturing one particular product for all those 35 years. We sell more than even the Chinese. We found a niche and have played it to the hilt. On-line companies request our product. Items have been in every major retail and catalog store in the USA and Canada. Quality and on-time shipment is the golden egg. ferg

Love the knife, don't care much for the sheath. Strictly my opinion. ferg

Round holes already punched weren't they? Also that big fat thread to sew it with. That is the problem with a lot of kits. The manufacturer has decided what you can do with certain aspects. You done a credible job on your tooling, the stitching leaves something to be desired. Not entirely your fault I am sure. ferg

Go to one of the cabinet hardware sites and checkout the miniature hinges, hasps, etc. We used to use them in our wood shop business all the time. Van Dyke's Restorers may have a lot of what you are looking for. ferg

View a photo/image of the end of a belt you like, replicate it by cutting with an Exacto knife. Done that many, many times before buying the chisels. ferg

Daughter's cat prefers my sewing machine chair. Haven't sat down on her yet. Cute pic. ferg

The only time I ever use rubber cement is if the connection is temporary. Barge cement is my choice, I am sure there are others. All adhesives need to have time to acquire the optimum adhesive strength, as you know. Many folks, myself included, get in a "rutt" to get something finished and hurry the process, not good. I glue and sew. When I done filigree years ago I glued all of the fine cuts of leather with Barge cement. ferg

I apply directly to the leather. Also: I finish coat the piece, not on the edges, before burnishing or applying any glycerine soap or saddle soap. ferg

Always sorry to hear anyone closing their business, whatever the reason. Unfortunately, I wouldn't buy any of the items you have without photos and prices. Telephone is great but in this type of situation I do not think it works. Just my .02 ferg