Ferg

I have used the 2oz calf skin for the wrapped edge. Looks absolutely beautiful if you keep your stitches perfectly aligned. I like a slightly different shade of dye on the wrap than body of bag. ferg

Your wacom drawing can be copied to Photoshop but you must remember, Photoshop is not a designing platform, you need Illustrator to move your drawing from the tablet. You can resize much easier and keep everything in proportion at the same time. There are some less expensive drawing programs, you need to check the specs to see if they will import from the Wacom. ferg

Normally if it is on 120 volts doesn't matter which wire is to the posts, technically. If you reverse the wires and the hot wire happens to be connected to the case of the motor you will get shocked every time you touch it. If motor is on 220 volts you can reverse the motor by exchanging the two hot wires, leave the ground wire alone. That said: I would bet he screwed up the parts when he put them back in. ferg

This company has many fine looking items. You do realize they are in the Czech Republic? ferg

Welcome to the worlds greatest Leather site, let's see some pics soon. ferg

Your work looks very nice but I would like to see it all without scrolling, scale your photos down please. ferg

This is a filigree done with shaped punches. You would normally place a contrasting color behind this.

Seen your other photos of the case. You done an excellent job with the style, pattern, and workmanship. I like your finger cuts also. ferg

I downloaded a couple of the doodle pages. I remember some of them many years ago were very enlightening. Unfortunately, the ones I have seen are not so. The book I mentioned above is still the best $15 you will ever spend. ferg

This may help you. Each ounce of leather is 1/64" or 0.396875mm. Eight ounce leather 1/8" or 3.175mm. Hope this helps a little. ferg

Tandy for starters but there are many outlets for the dye. Google "Leather Dye". ferg

You need a copy of Al Stohlman book: Pictorial Carving Finesse. This book has many different types of trees and bushes with tool selection and how to use them. The book was written some time ago so there may be some tools shown that are not available anymore. There is almost always a good substitute though. ferg

Hi Valery, Your English is very good as is your work. Stitching is good, you need to glue the ends of your stitches. Cut the thread as close to the last stitch as possible then put a drop of Super Glue or similar directly on the thread. That will prevent the last thread from coming loose with wear. ferg

There are "piping" feet for many machines that are made differently than the one shown. I have three different sizes for my Consew, 3/8", 1/4", and 1/8". These feet have a slot in the bottom that rides over the piping and stitches right against the bead. Hmmmmm, I didn't think the music was all that bad. There are many more tutorials on You Tube for doing Piping and/or Welting with a person speaking with what they are doing. ferg

Chaylor-Fennelli has very nice liners, Springfield has them. The liners from Tandy are from across the "Pond" and of questionable quality. I have found a few through Google from other sources but not many. Most if not all good wallets in retail establishments are sewn not laced. A sewn wallet has class if it is done correctly. Access Bob Park's (hidepounder) tutorial on finishing/burnishing edges.

I assume you are sewing a material other than leather since you are using 135 x17 needle. The long slot in the side of the needle should be to the left side, thread needle from left to right. A good test for sizing on thread and needle is to thread a needle, hold the thread at about a 45 degree angle. If the needle slides down the thread easily you have the right size needle for the size thread you are using. Do not adjust needle, it should be placed all the way up into the hole for the needle. If you place the needle other than that the timing will be off. Make sure your machine is threaded properly. On occasion my Consew will "flip" a thread off the lower tension discs making it wrap around the knurled knob. That throws the tension off and also will shred the thread. If you have messed too much with the needle etc. you may have messed up the timing. Your manual gives information on timing. ferg

Nice job, keep at it. ferg

Please reduce your image size, it is impossible to evaluate your work with such a huge image. ferg

I have a bottle of the Gum Trag, have never used it. I think a lot of the finishing edges is a matter of preference and what someone began with. I followed Bob Parks method from the start and have never had the occasion to use any of the alternatives. King's X does some mighty fine work. I am sure what ever he does works for him and may also work for you. ferg

Your post has a lot of questions and I probably cannot answer all of them to your satisfaction. You have the FRONT, the BACK cover and the SPINE. The spine is the portion that actually folds and is sewn to the front and back, The Spine must be grooved at the folds. Sew the front and back to the spine before you place the lining. Begin your first stitch at the exact line of where your finish stitch will be when going around the entire exterior edge. Do the same when you end the stitching on the Spine, stop your stitch at the exact location of the perimeter stitch line. Make your lining a little larger than the total of the outside. Sew the lining pockets, pencil holders, etc. completely before glueing the lining to the outside leather. Now the stitching for the lining is visible on the inside along with your perimeter stitching. When you cross over the stitching on the spine at the ends, you have no gaps and if you have done a good job of stitching it will appear that everything was stitched at the same time, non-stop. I am sure you may have other questions, this is my method, hope it helps. ferg

I have a square hole punch that cut a hole 1/8" on all sides. I have not done the square hole in a band but looks easy. ferg

I think you folks might be missing a step in the burnishing. After sanding and edging the leather you wet the edges, rub Glycerine Soap (it is a semi-solid amber colored bar) well into the edges. The edge will be shiny and rounded. You then apply the Saddle Soap with whichever method you desire. ferg

Maybe you are running warm water over the leather. ferg

I will try it some time. The buffing wheel you are using is the same size I use to polish and the rpm on your motor is correct. If you are driving the shaft with the buffing wheel with a belt from your motor I would use a smaller pulley on the motor than the shaft. Seems about 1000 rpm is about right. I am sure someone else will jump in here. ferg