Ferg

Very nice, neat and well done. ferg

Wanting reversible doesn't matter. Do not gouge the back side, just learn to hold the punch in a perfectly vertical manner. If you are hand sewing learn to hold the awl perfectly vertical. Concentrate on doing this and before you know it the process becomes automatic. Take it slow and check the tool before each punch/awl hole. ferg

Probably needs a speed reducer, that is a "step down" pulley. A servo motor would do the trick completely, about $150. ferg

I guess I have had my Consew for about 6 months. Wife felt about the same way but since I have made several things requiring sewing she is enthused also. LOL ferg

Personally, I would forget the Tragacanth. I cannot upload a pdf from Bob Park on burnishing edges. Name of file is "Finishing Edges .pdf" You have most of what you need. ferg

I didn't pay any attention to the date of your original post. You have improved measurably. Nice job. ferg

Have you been burnishing your edges? Doesn't look good and you are having a problem with your "spots". I think Ray has the correct method for the spots, sell your Tandy Press. ferg

Well, I am always the one to throw cold water. Your photos are a little small so difficult to see most. I think you selected a great pattern, doesn't matter if it is an original or not. Your work is excellent except for the Basket Weave. I hope your customer is not as picky as I. That is not a good job. Appears you didn't make a straight line mark, maybe you din't intend the weave to be straight, it should be "ALWAYS" in my opinion. I also realize your photo may be a little skewed. If that is the case forget what I said above about your BW. LOL ferg

The brush sounds like a good idea to try. Only other way to get excess shoe polish out of crevices is with a tooth pick or something similar. You mentioned buying some supplies from your friend the shoe repairman. Trust me, that is not the best source for you. There are many suppliers listed on this site, visit them and do some shopping. I believe you will be surprised at what price points you can obtain some items. If you have a Tandy store anywhere close, visit it. Most Tandy's have free classes and a lot of the managers are very benevolent, especially when it may mean a new customer, even if down the road. Don't hesitate to get all info you can. ferg

I have used Neat Lac for over 50 years. You can still buy it, has a different name because if I remember correctly, Tandy had the name Neat Lac Copyrighted. The product is called Clear-Lac and is , as far as I know, available from LCI (Leather Coatings Inc.) I bought a can from them recently. Tandy and numerous other companies elected to discontinue most everything we used in the past because it might harm an unsuspecting child with an idiot for a parent. The great fathers in Washington have made it difficult for manufacturers to make anything much that is worthwhile in the USA so China manufactures our goods. Sorry for that little Rant. People are the problem with products that get discontinued. They pour old oil and gasoline on the ground and bury burn anything that won't pour. BTW: Old Neat Lac is very difficult to use. LCI makes a thinner for it. Have not had the occasion to use it but have no reason to believe it doesn't work. You can actually thin either of these products to achieve less gloss if desired. ferg

For starters, I understand the meaning of not having the "where with all" to buy more "stuff". What you need to understand is this. "You cannot make a silk purse from a sows ear". My advice probably won't help you much right now but I believe it would have been better if you simply left the belt unfinished, I have done that and am wearing an every day belt that I never finished. The leather isn't as pretty but it develops a patina that only unfinished leather has. Your treatment of the edges is all wrong. I again understand the problem. The edges would be better if simply left alone. Shoe polish has it's place, a belt is not it. You will be wearing the polish on your clothes. Until you are able to buy some of the correct supplies just consider what you have available, what it or they can do. Consider all possibilities and move on from there. ferg

I am always interested in "How Things are Made". You done a great job, the mocs are beautiful. ferg

Access Bob Park (Hidepounder) for everything you need to know about burnishing edges of leather. URL for some of the best information you will ever receive http://leatherworker.net/bob-park/FinishingEdges-2-15-11.pdf ferg

When you finish your belt do the edges also. ferg

That sounds very unreasonable and highly unlikely. I would check them again. I have ordered from them in the summer and they were there. ferg

I don't think I have ever done anything for Motor Cycles. I like your work on this one. ferg

That is a lot of info to "soak up". Thanks. ferg

Among many other things I do, I grow our own flowers for our property in my small green house. Sow about 2500 seeds now, used to do 4000. My knees argue with me when it gets over 2500. Also have about 1500 Perennials. Thought some of you might like to see a few photos.

Sonnie, I am going to send you two attachments, one with this post another with next post. Actual size front and back of the Western Classic Purse. These will be large files. If you wish I can send them to your personal e-mail. The gusset is 3.5" at the bottom and narrows to about 2" or a little more at the top. I believe you could get enough info from this to make the purse. ferg Sonnie, Second image. westernclassicfront.pdf westernclassicback.pdf

Your work simply shows that you are a beginner. You do need to buy "Tech Tips" by Al Stohlman. It is one of the best books available for the money, to give you lots of information and how tos. Keep at it, many folks have begun leather work knowing nothing about it. ferg

I have a Consew 206RB5. Many things are nearly identical in sewing machine mechanisms. The bobbin should have the thread coming off the bottom right as you hold it in front of you. Place the bobbin in the Bobbin Case holding the bobbin the same way. Feed the thread through the slot and up into the little hole under the tension spring on the case. Pull the handle on the case and place in the machine until it seats solidly or you hear an audible click. Presser foot down, hold onto the threaded needle that is threaded from left to right, providing the long slot on the needle is to your left, lower needle into needle plate by turning the machine by hand. Keep turning until the needle comes back up through the presser feet, lift the foot, you will see a little loop of thread that isn't running through the needle. You can use a small screw driver or anything that will pull the loop towards you. As you probably know by now that is the thread coming from the bobbin. You should be ready to sew. If you have a messed up thread coming from the bobbin/bobbin case you may have too small needle, the bobbin case may not be all the way in, you threaded it wrong. Twisted thread in the bobbin case will make it very difficult to remove. Don't do anything crazy like picking at it with a screw driver. Swing the machine head up so you can see under the machine, notably at the bobbin case, clear any thread pieces you may see. Maybe something I have said will help, hope so. ferg

Scott, Reduce the size of your images. Very difficult to see the work you have done. ferg

With my experience, you must have a product that will mask the areas of the piece you do not want the "Antique" finish to penetrate. Dye stains will simply reduce the resistance you have applied and make the piece appear blotchy. My suggestion would be to use an Air Brush to apply your stain. With practice you can do amazing things, even some antiquing. ferg

Sounds reasonable to me. Think I would try it on an old boot first. Merry Christmas!!!! ferg

Peter Main ferg