Ferg

There was a lot of interest in the 1776 photos etc. in 1975/1976. I obtained a photo from a library to do this. Made that old frame in my wood shop. The leather was about 8 oz. Veg Tanned from Tandy. Took me several days as I remember. The paint/stain was from Tandy, I don't remember the name of it. Pretty good shape for being 36 years old Thought some folks might like to see it. I would probably do a number of things differently, doing it today. ferg

My personal thoughts on this, I am sure you will get more ideas. If possible you need to make a lining that will accommodate some of the pages, front and back, that may not be real important to the contents. The lining would be stitched to the cover, the book held in place by the pages slipped into the lining. If you are not going to carve the cover, use a light weight (3/4 oz.) fine grade of leather, you can buy book binding leather. I would then consider gluing the cover to the spine of the book but only if there is none of the original spine left. Before starting something like this, read as much as you can on book binding and covering/recovering old books. There is a wealth of information about this subject on the Net. One last note: I wouldn't use anything heavier than 6/7 oz for the cover if you are planning to carve. ferg ferg

Having the right tools definitely makes a difference. Not having everyone of them called for in a design is not a "work breaker" to me. Very few of us began with a full set of tools. A beginner wouldn't know what to do with a lot of them anyway. Be patient, I am not As you gain experience and hopefully sell a few items, you can buy more toys, Oh doggone it, I meant to say, "More tools that you must have." ferg

I don't think your carving looks jumbled just a little too large for the area given it. Nice work. ferg

Plus 1 to previous comments. I have the SK-3 including four of Paul's blades. If the knife cost $200 it would be underpriced with the comfort and technical ability you have with this knife. ferg

If you are wanting to do this type of work, "break a leg" and buy an air brush. You will be amazed at what you can accomplish. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time with trying to use cream dyes to accomplish this affect. ferg

I believe you could arrive at the effect using an Air Brush to apply the stain. ferg

You can grind/file the serrations off the feet. Be aware that both feet need to be exactly the same. If the machine isn't a walking foot the material may not go through when sewing. ferg

Sorry for your obvious frustration. I have dealt with Tandy for many years and have had only a few problems, they were taken care of promptly. I have found that the managers of the stores have a lot to do with how much second grade leather you may receive. Seriously though, if this has you this upset you are in far a lot of disappointment in any business endeavor. ferg

Bobby, Another inspiration for many of us. Thank you, ferg

Nice clean design and redering. ferg

You didn't ask for a critique but...... Your design is done well. It appears you used a pear shader for you background or at least one that has some "round" to it. Your background isn't crisp next to the carving. Round the corners of the wallet a little more. It makes the stitching look nicer. ferg

You need to use an edge guide with your sewing machine. ferg

Try JoAnn Fabrics for the foam. I bought some for our ottoman/footstool. Pricey stuff for the high density foam which is what we bought. ferg

tg, In lieu of having one blade cutting with your swivel knife, the beader blades make two cuts side by side. They come in different widths. I believe 1/8" is the smallest width and up to at least 1/4". Check some of Bob Park's work. He uses the beader blades. ferg

Billy, The person I communicated with said they were three months behind, I just didn't wish to wait that long. Thanks, ferg

My wife and I recently bought new couches for our Great Room. I am in the process of building an 18" square foot stool/ottoman to cover with leather. Bought upholstery leather from Tandy, nice stuff, probably 4/5 oz. It is heavier than what is on the couches but I think I will be able to copy the stitch style. As to pointers, we are in this together my friend. I am going on what I can glean from all the leather items I see. ferg

Excellent work. ferg

My point here is this: You lay out the leather so you have a specific area you wish to cut the belts from. Take the "Off-All" from the hide and use it for other small projects for instance. When you cut the entire hide into belt blanks you destroy leather that could have been used. Get my drift? ferg

ENCO evidently has numerous "Numbers" to give you. I called, ask if they had them, said, "yes". I asked how much. $121.00. Sorry but your website says $89.95. "Let me check that, You are correct, $89.95." "Okay, I hear you are shipping that free to some areas of the states." "Oh no! That weighs over a hundred pounds and UPS won't ship it, has to go by truck." "Okay, thanks for the information." I didn't want it that bad anyway. LOL ferg

I cannot let this go past without telling what we use "rubbing alcohol" for. I get leg cramps from working on a concrete floor or climbing around on the roof of our home, usually well into the night. IF I can get my body out of bed my wife rubs the alcohol on my legs. Sops it on would be a better explanation. Isopropyl Alcohol is a mild anesthetic. Do I need to go any further? BTW: Been dong it for over 35 years, I still have my liver. LOL ferg

Jeff, You do glue your two layers together before you sew don't you? I cut my belt blanks with an inexpensive strap cutter from Tandy. Never have a problem. 8/9 oz. top, 3/4 oz bottom/inside cut exactly the same width, glue them with contact cement, sand the edges, burnish edges, then sew. I just don't think the belt blanks are an economic solution if you intend to make very many belts. ferg