Ferg

I know you didn't ask for a critique but.... First, I think your wallets are very nice and clean looking. One caveat that you are probably aware of, your machine's needle foot is pressing too hard on the leather. Your product would be even better if you can work that out. Your machine should have an adjustment for the foot pressure. Lighten/raise the foot as much as possible and still have the piece move properly. I have experimented with placing what I have to stitch in thickness (waste piece) under the foot when the feed dogs are all the way up. When the leather is just snug under the needle foot your impressions on the leather will be minimal. Make sure the leather is moving through correctly so your stitches stay consistent. When all else fails, use a large modeling tool. Rubbing over the impressions will eliminate most. When I sew leather that is a finish piece on both sides I use a smooth needle plate and smooth feet, ferg

It seems you have not used an awl to stitch. First off you use a marking wheel/tool and learn to hold the awl at the correct angle. You can be assured using a good awl, I don't recommend one from Tandy, get a good one, you can pierce a lot of leather. There is a definite plus to hand stitching using an awl when you learn to use it properly, it is beautiful and satisfying. ferg

I have been preaching these principles of workmanship for years. I will not allow anything I made that I consider inferior out of my sight. Which means I throw away a lot of "stuff". That is just the way it is. ferg

Kevin, I have the parts list and diagram for the 5 in 1. Shoe Plus informed they have 9 of 12 parts of the mechanism for the welt roller. Are you ready for this? $700.00 There is a guard at the cutter that is broken, they want $94.50 for that. Skiving blade and Cutter round blade is in stock and they are not too bad in price. Will get them either from them or Pilgrim's. Needless to say the machine is going to be a 3 in 1 when I get finished with it. Seems that is what it was intended to be anyway. ferg

Bruce, There is a Skiver Fork Adjusting Screw/Bolt with a nut on top. I tried to adjust the Fork with that but there is so much paint on the threads of the bolt that it won't move. As you can see I have some cleanup to do. My wife took one look at it and said,"What is that supposed to do?" She should know that ever since I tore the CNC two head Router apart about a week after getting it , that anything is possible. Thanks, ferg

Welcome to the best and biggest Leather Forum on the Web. There are many posts on the forum about making concealed carry leather. Read all you can from here and ask questions, you will have many. Do start with Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes. ferg

Bruce, I have found several things that need "fixing". I bought it with the idea of refurbishing so I didn't expect it to be perfect. You are correct about the blade angle adjustment. Thickness adjustment has me befuddled at the moment. I think placement of the skiving knife in reference to the rollers, close/farther away may be the adjustment for thickness. Blade is in terrible shape. Has been ground poorly plus a big knick in the edge. I am ordering a new one and will get someone to grind the old one true for me, don't think my grinder will hold it correctly. I have no idea how you could cut leather straight with the cutter but then that cutter is bad also. ferg

Frank, How 'bout $225 and I will pay the postage sent to me via Priority Mail in a Post Office mailer box. The small box of theirs should fit them I think. ferg

I have purchased a Fayscott Landis 5 in 1 Model 25 that I want to refurbish. I am enclosing some photos of the machine. Main problem I have? The fifth function is not on the machine. The Welt Roller mechanism is missing but when I removed the bolt covering the space for this, the bolt and cover had never been removed since coming from the factory. Undercoat etc. still around the bolt and plate. There are a few things the machine definitely needs and the welt roller would be nice to have since it is a Shoe Sole item. No manual seems to exist unless in Bruce Johnson's shop. I have given "Shoe Systems Plus, Inc." my list of parts I would like. They have some parts but not all. I downloaded a parts list and diagram of the machine from their site. Prices forthcoming. Anyone have one, know anything about them, know why there isn't a welt roller on mine, you get the idea.

Good luck. ferg

You can wet a sponge and apply to the leather but you need it to begin returning to original shade/color before stamping. You may find that this simple and quick process gives you questionable results, just keep that in mind. I have done it and on occasion it works okay but other times the impression of the letter stamp is very shallow. Try on several pieces of scrap. Time the different semi drying times. That will give you some idea anyhow. I am not hot (no pun intended) on using a heated blower, it tends to make the leather a little hard. Leather is natural remember. ferg

You case the leather before stamping. If you are unfamiliar with that process there are many post concerning that. Bob Park (hidepounder) has one of the best explanations. ferg

Eric, As KingsX says, If the style of lacing you do isn't full coverage of the edge you should definitely burnish and finish them. ferg

I have the wooden item. Haven't had occasion to cut as wide as you are but I have my wife hold the end of the leather as I pull the cutter away from her. For one reason or another it seems I can cut 3 or 4 straps from same piece of leather then I need to use the straight edge again. Probably just me. ferg

I've got to know, where in the world did you find all this? Don't have to answer that of course. LOL ferg

You hit the mother load with this. I have the Ken Griffin book. ferg

If you have a Glass Shop close by you just might get a "Cut-Off" from a job they done recently. The advantage to the auto glass, it is tempered. ferg

Welcome to the forum. Your work is what I like to look at. You have the touch and do beautiful work, you should be proud. ferg

Jim, Wiz, Art, or Bob Kovar is better equipped to answer you than I but I believe with all the info I have read you would be best informed to look at the heavy stitchers. Long arm perhaps. Wiz has a machine that will sew the heavy lifting webbing etc. Sounds like that might be your best bet. ferg

Cheryl, I think maybe you are one with a problem. Where do you get off thinking you are such a high and mighty. Why don't most of you get off it. I sent MHolzer another message that obviously most of you never bothered to read. There was nothing malicious in what I said to the gentleman. I voiced an opinion. Actually I believe he took it for what it was. He did say I was RIGHT. Oh, you didn't read that either. ferg Johanna, Please can this thread, this gets totally out of hand.

I will lump ATTABOYS together. Very well done. ferg

Nice design, excellent workmanship. I like the simple design of the whole thing. ferg

It mounts to a machine that has heat platen with pressure. That size roll was used on a pretty good sized unit with a platen of probably 8 or 10 inches square. There is a flat metal plate with a silicon rubber mould/die in the shape of the finished product. Can be used to emboss names, logos most anything similar to that onto leather plus many other types of substrates. We had one for about five years. Now you know more than you wanted to know. LOL ferg

Bruce, I agree with most of what you have to say. I know that some times I lean a little heavy but praising what is really bad doesn't help anyone get better. The gentleman knew his work was pretty bad, I simply saw no reason to tell him it was okay. I have stated before that I have had my own business since I was 18 years of age. That included Radio and TV repair, Building and remodeling fine homes and industrial buildings as well as building commercial cabinetry. I cannot think of a man or woman I ever had working for me saying in later years that how I taught them was wrong. I was director of a 32 member singing group for five years. We traveled all over Ohio and Indiana. What is your reaction to a singing or instrumental group that is lousy. If they couldn't stand the heat they just stayed home. Some times constructive criticism is harsh. ferg

I assure you this is "A Miracle in a Can". The spray can lubricant I use is the MK-30301-12. They make a fuel additive and the Hyper Lubricant, probably some others, these are the ones I have used. We have a '92 Olds '88 that doesn't get driven often. Last winter it wasn't running too great so I put the oil additive and fuel additive in it. Took one day for the car to sound like a new vehicle. I use the spray or the oil additive on hand tools. We have a 10 horse Vacuum Pump on our CNC machine. This thing uses a ten gallon tank for hydraulic fluid. I put one quart of the additive in it and it smoothed it out like honey. When you change your oil in a car or truck you add 2 ounces per quart. It will not overflow the crank case no matter how much you put in it, within reason of course. Only need to add the additive about every third oil change. We have a large sliding table saw. I have , before MotorKote, used several different lubricants on the bearings in the slides. Needed to re-lube at least once a week. I applied the spray one year ago and have not lubed again. Back to the sewing machines. I check the rod in mine every day. No residue, accumulated dirt, gum or anything else, it moves without hesitation. They have a special on for the remainder of this month I think, don't remember the discount but it is worth it and they do not charge shipping. Please understand: I do not represent the company in any way. Simply a very satisfied customer among thousands. Forgot to mention, I don't know that there is a statement on the product saying explicitly, "Satisfaction Guaranteed" You won't be disappointed. They are good people, I am sure if you have a specific problem with any of the products they will be more than happy to work with you. ferg