barra

What about one of the large chain haberdashery stores like Jo-ann fabrics. The zipper lady might have other ideas for you. http://www.joann.com/joann/search/search_r...questid=2390114 Barra

I don't know how you would apply these to what you do but these are a few I use on occasion. Back stitch. This looks like saddle stitch from the top side but forms a different pattern on the backside. It uses only one needle. 1. o 2. o 3. o 4. o 5. o 6. o Start at hole 2. go back to hole 1. Then hole 3, Next hole 2. Continue the sequence 4-3, 5-4, 6-5. Herringbone stitch and baseball stitch are similar in many respect Blanket stitch. This is the overlocked/serged stitch pattern you see on the edge of blankets (does anyone use blankets anymore) Barra.

Thanks ClayB. That's a good start to get the ball rolling. Barra

To prepare your strap after you have cut it to shape and pointed the end opposite the buckle 1. Take the edge off ie: bevel top and bottom. 2. Burnish the edges by moistening and then use a peice of course canvas or denim to vigorously rub the edges. Hold the strap in one hand and drag the rag firmly down the strap a few times till you can see the fibres along the edge have been slicked down. Everyone has a different way of burnishing but that should do for starters. Also everyone has different liquids they moisten the edges with. Mine is simply PVA wood glue disolved in hot water. When cooled it is good to go after a stir or a shake of the bottle. 3. Crease the edges. This is running a tool down the strap. Tandy has a cheap plastic tool that works just fine. 4. Assemble with buckles etc. If you try and do it after, the hardware is in the way and you can't effectively do the job. Barra

I have leave from work due, in fact I'm kinda being ordered to take time off. The grand plan is to either land in LA, San francisco or Denver (each has their pro's and con's) and eventually end up in Sheridan. I intend going back to my youth a bit and backpacking my way around as roughing it is half the fun. I'm not hugely into the run of the mill touristy stuff but I am a history buff. To me at this stage my idea of a perfect holiday would be completely chill out and smell the inside of a few saddle shops or horse poo. Any one have any travel tips to get about on the cheap as the $Aus is akin to what comes out the North end of a South bound cow at the moment. Barra. (have swag/bedroll, will travel)

Ruth. This is a bit of a double answer to a couple of your questions on seperate threads. Leather http://www.gretannery.com.au/products.htm Plaiting http://www.ramsskullpress.com/crafts.html Bushcraft 8 and 9 should get you on your way. Machine See Jimsaddler Barra.

I hope this explains things a bit better. Barra. http://www.visla.net/upload/acsses//SMN15_English.pdf

LR = A needle for stitching leather with a reverse twist point. Right or reverse twist. Left or regular twist. S = Narrow cross point. R = Normal round point. Generally used for sewing cloth type textiles as the round point can push thru the wefts and warps of a weave. http://www.schmetz.com/ Go to the needle catalogue Barra

Whithout trying to divert the thread away from linen and hand stitching. While my stitcher handles the bonded threads fine, when I put linen thru it you can almost here a sigh of relief. It definately likes linen better. Back to hand stitching with linen. Barra

A friend names all his pets Eric. Eric the dog, Eric the Cat, Eric the Budgie. I have a pet name for something both inanimate and animal but I divorced it. One of my machines goes from THE PRESCIOUS to you seahunter 1st car. Eckie because it was an EK holden (Australian GM circa 1962). Have to be careful using a name like that these days. All 7-33 stitchers are called Thumper. Barra

From OCC health and safety lectures. No dust is good dust. Barra

Quickuns off the top of my head. Linen is a natural fibre and not subject to sunlight degredation like a lot of synthetics. It is stronger when wet as the natural fibres swell up. Ever tried to undo a knot in a wet rope. When hand stitching you need to get a nice long taper on the end of your thread so that when you wax it and place a needle on the end your not left with a bump behind the needle forcing you to use pliers every stitch. This taper can be made by scraping a knife blade over the end of the thread. You will then see fibres being pulled off. When waxed you have this tapered thread. Linen Does not stretch. The stitches pull up tight and stay tight. Linen is twice as strong as cotton. Barra

Kathy. Try a google search under the trade name of plastazote. Depending on what you intend using it for, 24kg/M3 (soft) or 45kg/M3 (firm) is commonly used for equestrian applications. Barra

I normally don't get caught up with clowns like this but, from PETA. Australian farmers get away with cutting lambs open and leaving them to be eaten alive by maggots under the pretext of keeping them healthy. Does that sound wrong to anyone else? Please help stop this cruelty by boycotting Australian wool and informing the farmers that mulesing is wrong. I sure hope that is not a sweater with any Australian wool content sweetheart. Barra

Ruthless. Here are the signs that tell me they are machine sewn. 1. Angle of the stitching ie right angles to the edge. 2. where the stitching starts and ends ie the little bit of thread poking out where the thread has been cut off at the end of the job. 3. Round holes made by the needle. 4. Sewing machine track marks left from the presser foot. 5. On a few places you can see where the lock stitch has formed the knot closer to the top (tensions). Barra

These are some of the tools I use for jobs like slicking seats. The white item on the left is a hard plastic. It is actually a parachute packing stick. I then have a smooth hardwood rub stick next is my lignum vitae smasher/masher/bouncer. I have even heard them referred to as a pompey. You can get them in aluminium Then I have a bone folder which is handy for getting into slick inside a tight radius. In front I have a hardwood burnishing stick. I also have a metal one that I can heat to melt in beeswax. The bouncer can be substituted with a smooth door knob. Lots of items that are hard and smooth can be utilised. Things like a hardwood dining chair armrest with an approximate curve as a saddle seat can be used if it is smooth and has no abrupt edges. I also use a rolling pin. Not a crap one from the 99 cent store but a decent quality one. Then you could make yourself a glass slicker. Alternatively use plexiglass or lexan. Make sure all edges you use on the leather are smooth and polished. Barra

The synthetic fibre is probably fibrefill dacron. It is used to stuff some pillows, cushions, upholstery and teddy bears (kids, guard Ted with your life). Barra

I also found this. It was compiled just after the site crashed and we lost the post's that Denise has linked to. Home made draw down stand Homemade stitching horse or saddlers clams boot knife with good steel for keeping sharp short pointed boot knife for trimming in tight corners, bleed knots etc Leather strop or various grit emery boards compass divider racer for gouging stitch grooves (can be home made) roll of hemp thread (can roll any sized thread your heart desires) round knife or head knife (buy the best you can afford) used to cut/skive and can be used to cut straps if no draw knife/plough guage is available a few edge tools wad punches of various sizes cutting out bench (made to suit your height) screw driver set (el cheapo hardware bargain bin) various sized awl blades find wooden things that feel good in the hand to you then tap in the awl blade. The locking hafts are not essential. Various bones from the butcher (free) to make slickers/burnishers. Throw them outside away from the dogs and the house to let the ants clean out the flesh. Single creaser/tickler. broken glass for shaving leather edges smooth mallet/maul. mallets can be had from the hardware store shoe hammer (antique/second hand store) you know the old box of tools in the corner from deceased estate actions nail claw side cutters/various pliers/multi grips from hardware slot/crew/bag punches can be done away with by making 2 round punch holes and cutting between (not ideal but at a push can be done) copper rivets and setter lump of old railway track (handy anvil) and various lumps of old iron. The bases from old fashioned steel irons are good. various seat/scratch awls (home made with the grinder and old screw drivers (for drawing up leathers tight rasp nippers (distract your farrier) saddlers hammer can be home made with a good handle or strong dowl and then get some steel rod, heat up one end and then flatten. Attach the rod to the wooden handle with a metal band If you crease strapping then you can cut slots of varius widths into the ends of your knife handles or peices of wood to make creaser grooves Bees wax egg eyed needles dyes/burnishing goops (all home made) eg PVA glue disolved in a jar of warm water or boiling bark to get the tannins out (DO not do this in the kitchen or within 2 days of wife entering the house. The stink will outlast religion. I'd go surfing ebay and rummage around garage sales. You will be surprised what you can tun into a leather tool with a little imagination. As said this list is off the top of my head. I could probably cull the list if I was going to make it a BARE BONES list and I would definately add to make life easy. As you can see lots can be scrounged from elsewhere. Forgot the coffee pot and beer fridge. don't forget a straight edge/steel rule and sometimes it is handy to have a tape measure attached to the bench (pester the sewing machine mechanic or store for one of those advertising adhesive tapes they stick on sewing machine tables and stick it to the bench

The methylated spirits (Metho) that UKRAY is referring to is called denatured alcohol in the US. Barra

a good or half decent awl blade should go thru that like hot butter. Make sure it is sharp and the point is not burred. You can also smear some leather dressing on the blade and wipe it off. A small film will remain making the blade glide thru. The old timers would scrape the blade over their scalp to get a miniscule amount of oil on the blade. Barra

i echo Steves comment about certain items in saddlery need to have a weak link. My main bug is nylon headcollars/halters. You would be hard pressed to find a decent leather one these days in Aust. it is easy to go into joe blow's feedstore and get an elcheapo nylon one but that poor horse will beat itself to death with stress and fear before the nylon gives way. Barra P.S. How remiss of me. Great job Elton

Yeah the old ABC story link no longer works but here is something in a forum about Rockhampton Australia. The recent discussion topics menu gives you this. http://www.topix.com/au/rockhampton If you then open the link to the topic you get this. http://www.topix.com/forum/au/rockhampton/TBOIBSUCE49IT14CG Barra

I think I'm now going to play with a plough disc and an old hills hoist, Off topic but plough discs make great bush BBQ plates. Barra

Does it contain traces of peanuts. Barra

http://www.gretannery.com.au/products.htm#White%20Hide Barra