barra

Try motor trimmer/canvas worker suppliers. Barra

Threading the bobbin thread thru the tensioner disks on the winder is a pain in the backside. I tension by running the thread around my shears handle or by using the thumb and fore finger depending on my whim at the moment. Bruce, doesn't your 1245 have a bobbin winder on the front of the arm???? Barra

http://www.westernfolklife.org/weblogs/art...ab_of_2007.html Here is the link to Jeremiah Watt's blog about the Aussie tree makers. Might do for a read until the pics get reloaded. Barra

other than Sedgewicks, Astley leather bridle from NZ is very good. Barra

Kathy. The tackleberry would be safe enough. With the popularity of hybrid style western/Aussie stock saddles here in Oz the bates/tackleberry style rig is fairly common. The rigging style was developed here so that in outback cattle camps, a stockman could continue to ride even when the girth points had progressed to the point of no return. Most cattle stations are so remote that it would be a long time until a stockman could visit a saddler. Unless the stockman was adept at saddle repair, once the girth points were shot and without a bates rig that saddle was useless. Again if the client wants the points replaced it is a fairly easy job. One other point. I was taught to stitch on girth points so that the flesh side of the point was facing the flesh side of the flap (I know this seems upside down). The reasoning behind this is so that the stronger grain side of the point/stral is against the buckle bar. The same with stirrup leathers, the buckle is stitched on by turning the grain over the buckle. This is not done on dressage leathers tho as they want the grain side visible for arty farty effect. The girth points were more than likely machine stitched onto the webbing cross strap before assembly. To re machine stitch is now impossible. When we attached new girth points, the holes for stitching were pre punched out with a tiny (number 1 round punch) instead of using an awl for each stitch. About 5 holes each side were punched about 1/4 inch apart and the strap was back stitched to the webbing. If you could post a pic it would be most useful. Barra

Kathy. The strap going over the top and probably going thru slots in the flap is for a Bates rig (somehow called a tackleberry in some circles). The straps disappearing into the saddle are the girth points/billets/straps. From your description it is sounding to me that the saddle is serge wool lined and not shearling. If this is correct the padding is called the panel. there should be a row of stitches that stitch the panel to the front edge of the flap (fender) going from one side, around the pommel and finishing on the othe side of the flap. Snip these stitches and the front will drop down. the front of the tree should sit in little pockets on the top of the panel (pull the panel free). This should give you access to where the girth points/straps/billets are stitched to webbing cross straps that forms the seat foundation. The old straps can be snipped off and new ones made and stitched on with good stout thread. Normally a roll your own thread about 6 ply number 2 common hemp is made. You can get by with stout nylon cord (not thread). These straps need to be good and strong as it is the lifeline between saddle and girth. Use good harness/bridle or saddle skirting I guess to make new straps from along the back of the hide. If you can get it you can use chrome tanned buffalo. Two other alternatives. 1. use the heaviest leather you can get and if not as heavy as the old straps, line the straps with nylon webbing like seat belt webbing that is already the width of the straps. punch holes in the straps before lining and when stitched use a hot poker to go thru the nylon webbibg, a fine tipped soldering iron will do but watch those fumes. 2. forget the girth straps all together and just use a tackleberry. This is actually a relatively easy job. I will try and put together some more info for you. Barra

G'day all. I am so glad the forums are back up and running. I am playing with a beach bucket and spade for a little while Please keep the posts coming to maintain my sanity. BTW JOHANNA/KATE. I salute you. Thank you for you exempliary effort in getting the forums back up and running. You both have no idea how much that means. Barra

http://www.ramsskullpress.com/crafts.html Try the link above. On the left side of the screen is a link to Australian bushcrafts, leather and knotting. The book your after is Bushcraft 9 (the others are worth a look too). Also here is how International customers can order. On the right of the screen is a link to the Australian plaiters and whipmakers association. This link has info on how to get started. Barra

Here's a slight variation. My old Master who's family were saddlers going back to the early 1800's would drag the awl blade across his scalp. The natural oils in your head then lubricate the awl blade. I still do this from time to time. Barra

SSSZ. The links that CEM has provided are all worth a look. Lefflers have as a comprehensive range of products as you will see in Australia. If your ever in Melb pay them a visit in York St. South Melb. Buying by the side/back/butt etc is the best way to go. Depending on what you want to make I would go with sides. Even the stretchy belly can be turned into something. I make mainly horse tack so I'm after saddlery grade leather. I have used Greenhalghs bridle sides for many years exclusively unless I want to slurge and suffer ticket shock with a Sedgewick bridle back. I'm not sure about anyones embossing sides as on the odd occasion I need some I just get it from a local Adelaide merchant (I think it comes from Leffler anyway). All in all the links CEM provided will more than satisfy your needs. Barra

SJ1027. Here is Artisans' Website. http://www.artisansew.com/ Barra

It's not fair. I just got back from 3 weeks in California (like an hour ago). Unfortunately I could not stretch out the trip to be able to go to NFR this year. Thomas and Mack has car parking for about $10 but it is not worth the hassle. Last year we parked in the hotel carpark next to Thomas and Mack and no-one said boo. I'd go with cabs or the shuttle tho. For those that don't know, Cowboy Xmas is huge and has everything Western that opens and shuts from saddles/tack, clothing, furniture, artwork, horse trailers. Barra

They shall not grow old as we that are left grow old. Age shall not weary them nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them. From for the fallen by Lawrence Binyon circa 1914. Army 80-88 Airforce 88-Present

I agree with Art. The US dollar is hurting Aus exporters (and other countries)but for me the tourist the Aus dollar value against the US dollar is fantastic. At present i get 92 US cents to the Aus dollar. Travelling to the US when the Oz dollar was 55 US cents used to hurt. Barra

Pella. Hybrid saddles are made in Australia on trees with western bars but have retained the traditional web strung "ground seat" so it is possible. The Trooper saddle or Universal pattern (UP) of various models eg 1912 pattern has the rider suspended over the tree with the bars still quite visible. It is therefore possible to build an English type top of the saddle while retaining the western skirts. Barra

Aussaddler. Where abouts in Australia are you located. Barra

Aussaddler. Where abouts in Australia are you located? Barra

If you are after heat resistant thread, also try Nomex thread. Nomex is what flight suits are made of and is designed to be very heat resistant. Barra

Gesa. Is this saddle a side saddle. Side saddles are traditionally lined in white linen (sometime serge). I would not have thought it the done thing for a woman to ride astride in 1900/01 let alone a Queen. Yes Australian stock saddles are still lined in serge. This is so that the filling can be awled into place or even to change the fit as a horses confirmation changes. Once the filling packs down to the shape of the horses back then they have another peice of material sewn over the original and a thin layer of padding put in place to provide a bit of extra softness. This process is called counterlining. Yes the saddles were sometimes placed directly onto a horses back in those days with no pad. The advantage of serge is that the filling can be awled into place. Both linen and serge (plus the wool/doehair filling allowed the horses back to breathe as all are natural fibres. Also both linen and serge can make it easier to restuff. for working saddles and to save removing the panel, saddlers sometimes cut the lining and re stuffed. They could then stitch up the slit thu which they re stuffed with an invisible stitch. The trend in those days was to make saddles with FULL panels. That is the panel extended down to where modern saddles have a sweat flap (close contact being unheard of then). The linen/serge would absorb sweat and when dry could be brushed out. Barra

Great clip Bruce as is the link to the intro segment. Barra

The length of thread should be no more than the double length of your arm so that you can pull up in one foul swoop so that you don't have to take a double grab to pull up one stitch, tho i guess that is only important if time is money. Don't get too fussed if you have to use more than one thread to complete a job. Barra

Ok. How the knee or poley pad on an Australian saddle evolved. When the English arrived they brought with them their English type saddles. Now Australia was originally established as a British penal colony. When the convicts finished their sentence most stayed (no return travel ticket). Some led law abiding lives upon release but of course some went back to their wicked ways. In an effort to stay one jump ahead of the law they stitched leather rolls to the flap (fender) of the saddle. This gave them a bit more stability when trying to out run the law chasing them. As the saddle evolved the knee pads went up higher to where the thigh would be. Nowadays some are right up near the pommel however the term knee pad stuck. Most are made by stitching 2 shaped pieces of heavy harness leather to the flap at right angles and then stitching them together. Once this is done the pad is covered in the same leather as would be used to cover the seat (chap weight leather). another way they are made is to stitch the 2 harness leather halves to the flap down flat, then bend the 2 up at right angles and stitch together, leaving a small gap to firmly stuff with wool. When done it too is covered as per first method 4" high is fairly common but some as high as 5" could be used on bronc busting saddles. Some saddles had smaller versions on the back of the flap as well for the back of the thigh for extra lock in value, tho these are not common now. THe first pic is a Traditional stock saddle with serge lined and wool stuffed panel (padding for the horse). The second pic is a more modern style tree where they are building the knee pads as part of the tree. These would be then covered in leather.

R&D. I'm glad you were able to find some info on A B Duke. Barra

I made mine taller than I think most have. I made it high enough so that i can do all work standing upright so that I don't have to bend over and stoop. The highest point is about navel height

Quick one R&D. Is that A B Duke OR A R Duke> The stamp looks like an R to me http://www.chinookmontana.com/BlaineCountyMuseum.html