Northmount

There is some confusion here. Presser feet for this machine (walking foot) come as a pair, inside foot, and outside foot. Don't refer to them as left and right. Your outside foot is with a left toe. They are available as right toe and with both toes. When he removes the inside foot, there is no binding, no noise, easy to turn the hand-wheel.

Definitely! It has to have room for leather under the foot too! Do a search for balancing the inner and outer feet for your machine, check for instruction manuals. @Wizcrafts this fellow could use some help if you can fit it into your day.

Moved to "wanted"

Auto Correct must have got you "dog food issue" for video title! The inner foot and feed dog are moving (feeding) together while this noise occurs. But you say it doesn't when you have the opposite foot on. Is that correct? Are the outside feet the same length? Sounds like it inner foot and feed dog are being highly stressed. Does the hand-wheel become hard to turn during that part of the cycle? The feed dog looks like it is tight against the right side. The sewing machine guys with all the experience should be along soon.

You can take a longer video and post on YouTube and post the link to it here. Might be able to see and understand better. You can show with different foot positions so we can see the difference in behaviour.

You should post this in the "Marketplace" area under "Wanted"

Old post that he may not be following. You need to tag the member or quote the post like I just did. To tag a member, type the '@' symbol followed by the member's username and pick it from the popup box. @p40whk You have a comment to look at, see above. If you want to sell a machine, Post it in the Marketplace area. Pay attention to the marketplace rules https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/

Please post your photos here. Reduce file size to 800 pixels in the longest dimension to fit the file size restrictions here.

Moved your post to Home > Specialty Leatherwork > Other Specialties > Clothing, Jackets, Vests and Chaps

As mentioned in my comment on your other post, you must provide any restrictions or other information on shipping. Who pays, do you ship world wide, etc.

Please read the marketplace rules and conform. You must provide a price, and any information or restrictions on shipping. Failure to conform may result in your ad being blocked. See the marketplace rules here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/

I second the neat-lac. Maybe 3 light coats so it doesn't crack because it is too thick.

Draw the curve using you knife. Keep at least 3/8" wide welt. Need to protect the thread with enough welt.

Increase top tension. If that won't do it, try a larger needle since this is hard / stiff leather. On 8 oz or so veg tan, I've been using #23 needle for 138 thread bottom and 207 top.

Landis 16 Manual PDF - Thanks to @BattleAx Landis-16 -Manual.pdf

Moved your post to Home > Specialty Leatherwork > Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes

@DoubleKCustomLeathercraft Moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.

Resize your pictures to 800 pixels in the longest dimension. Then you can fit lots of photos and they don't take hours to download for the members on the fringes of the internet, or use up all their phone data! Many screens don't show high res photos anyhow.

Try the finishes (paint) area of your local hardware store. I've found lacquer (real stuff) in spray cans. You can go to automotive suppliers and find automotive lacquer. Some places will load it into spray cans.

Old post - the people in this thread may not be following it anymore.

Please price each machine separately. Pictures would be a help to prospective buyers. Need priced and photos.

So is it sold? If it is I'll archive this thread.

Moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is where the machine guys hang out. Lots better cahnces of getting help you want here.

Do a test. Use a piece of leather from the hide you are going to use for a project. Wet it well with a sponge, or douse it in water, water ever method you want to use to get it fairly moist but not saturated. You can put it into a bag to case so the moisture content equalizes through the thickness of the leather. Some do this, some don't. Lots of options. Set it out to dry until it begins to return to close to normal colour. It should feel cool to your face, means it still has moisture and surface moisture is still evaporating. Use a couple stamps you intend to use. Stamp a small area and start keeping track of the time. Every 5 minutes, stamp a new area and record the time. Keep doing this until the leather is too dry and not stamping to the depth you want or the burnish you want. Pick the best time that had good depth and burnish. Use that, follow the same time for your practice or real projects until you get more of a feel for it. Watch some YouTube videos by Jim Linnell. He does a lot of instructional classes at https://elktracksstudio.com/ He normally wets his pieces using a sponge. The thicker the leather, the more he will apply. Then talks for a bit while the leather absorbs the moisture and equalizes. He will then do some tooling while explaining how and what. As the leather dries, he will sponge some more water on. There are lots of ways of getting where you want to, to be able to get the depth and burnish you want. Lots of arguments / discussions about what people think is the beat and only way. Search for articles and posts by Bob Park.

A couple older posts that may still be of value and include URLs. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88694-fellow-canadians-where-do-you-buy-your-leather/#comment-606551 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/104317-list-of-canadian-suppliers/