Northmount

That would turn the hook backwards so it couldn't pickup the top thread and lead to jams! You need to study the operation of a sewing machine a little to understand some of what it can and can't do. Instead, you lift the foot very little, just enough to make it easy to turn the article you are sewing 180 degrees. Turn it just after the needle enters the article or after it has risen 1/4" or so from bottom, after the hook has caught the top thread. Interfering with the formation of the loop will result in skipped stitches. If you lift the foot too far, it will release your top tension, messing up your stitch line. With a little practice, it becomes automatic. Practice on some scrap materials, similar to what you will be sewing, so you can learn to make it work for you.

Leather point in my opinion. Reduces the blow out on the back, makes a nicer stitch. I use a leather point for all my leather.

@takoda Moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is a great area to research machines and servos. Lots of experience gathered here.

Please post jpeg or png files. Many members will not download files they don't recognize webp (google) files. jpeg and png display automatically so don't require the user to go through a download process.

Extract the pictures from the zip file on your device, drag and drop on the area as you apparently did with the zip file. Depending on your device and operating system, there are apps online that you can install so you can extract the pictures. For Windows 10 and 11, Windows Explorer can extract the files without adding any other apps to your system.

Moved your post to Specialty Leatherwork Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes

Please review the marketplace rules. https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ You need to identify the conditions of the machines and also state any restrictions on shipping.

Moved your post to leather sewing machines

Please post jpeg or png files. Many members will not download unknown files. Replaced your zip file with the jpegs it contained. The jpegs and png files automatically display, not requiring a download to see them.

Obviously oil soaks in more so than a pigment that mostly lies on the surface.

Each application of dye should be allowed to fully dry and be buffed before the next step. I didn't recommend Pro Dye, but yes, it is better. The dye is an oil rather than a powdered pigment that stays on the surface.

Moved to leather machinery. Doesn't seem to fit in wanted as you are not wanting to buy.

Buff well before adding a finish. The finish is to seal the article including any dyes, paint, antique, etc. If you don't buff well before adding the finish, the surface particles get picked up, spread around and mixed in with the finish. Then as you do excessive buffing of the finish, you remove some of the finish, including the dyes that got mixed in with it. Moving your post to "Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners". You should look through posts in this area as well.

The last post in this thread is 8 years ago. Old thread. Look in the patterns forum too, might be something there.

Moved your post to Wanted located in the Marketplace.

Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. This is where the machine guys hang out.

Comments from the person that did the uploads. 819 views Aug 4, 2021 There are five videos that a gentleman uploaded to YouTube, but I have been unable to find his versions. So, I have reuploaded them to my channel. These videos will show you how to do the Mexican Round (or basket weave) braid on leather.

Moved your post to wanted

You need to address any shipping information such as restrictions, who pays, etc.

As with most leather dyes, paints, finishes, etc. Do test pieces to verify what works for your leather and circumstances.

By the way, vinegaroon is not a dye, but a chemical reaction. It doesn't rub off.

I've had leather jackets - chrome tan - soaked right through to my skin when I've been out in the rain for an hour or more. I think that the tea would be absorbed into the leather if allowed to soak. My back was dyed blue from my soaked black leather jacket. Took a few days and showers to get back to normal.

@MB1 I've done some more searching. The correct name for the 'braid' is called a slit braid. See Bruce Grant's Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding. Many people call it a bleed knot or blood knot. To get the secondary colour, locate the position the clip will be placed and dye the short end red or your selected colour. Then proceed with your "braiding".

bleed knot, blood knot, slit braid are all terms relating to this braid. I have seen the 2 colour braid somewhere but can't locate it at the moment. Moved your post to Specialty Leatherwork > Other Specialties > Collars, Cuffs, Leashes and Leads Converted and replaced your webp photo file. Many members will not download and open file types they are not familiar with. Use jpeg or png files as they will display without having to download them. Webp files are from google and chrome. Google owns the world! You can do a google search limited to leatherworker.net like this: site:leatherworker.net "your search parameters". replace the "your search parameters" with the words / items you are searching for (without quotation marks). example: site:leatherworker.net bleed knot

If there isn't any tannin in the leather, vinegaroon won't work. Maybe soak it in tea first.