Northmount

It may help to dampen the leather slightly, so it doesn't tend to wick the dye as easily, since it is already moist. Experiment! Tom Edit: Another thing you can do is put a light finish on, then dye with an alcohol based dye. It won't wick, but also doesn't really penetrate the leather, so is not good for items subject to any amount of wear. You will get different response than normal for the colour. Also, be careful putting the finish on over the dye. It will smear easily, so air brush is best. You need to test this first before you try it on a final product.

Are you matching needle and thread size? Here is a chart http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Is the needle in the right direction, and threaded from the correct side? Thread should enter on the side of the needle with the long groove. Tom

Paint it now in order to save your previous work. Tom

Have you tried pressing with a hot iron and wet cloth to form nice creases you can then sew overtop of? You probably need to trim material out of the corners to get the corners to lie smooth without a bunch of bulk. Tom

Machine sewing formed pouches, boxes can be fun too. Really need to watch the layout and have adequate leather for the machine foot. Cylinder machines need more space inside too. Might be easier to utilize the nail hole line as part of the sewing line when doing hand sewn articles. Tom

Iron or steel nails will leave black marks due to reacting with the tannin in the leather. Brass or stainless steel nails (or screws) shouldn't react with the tannin. So if you are going to hide the holes in a line of stitches, be careful what metals you use. Wet forming often leaves irregular edges, so generally need to be trimmed to fit nicely. I prefer to cut oversize and trim to fit and tidy up during assembly. Tom

Here are a number of links to Woodcarving Gouges http://woodcarvers.com/Flexpalm.htm, http://woodcarvers.com/drakegouges.htm, http://www.chippingaway.com/WoodCarving/TwoCherriesCarvingTools/TwoCherries-PalmSizeStraight.htm, http://www.sugarpinewoodcarving.com/index.php/cPath/1929?osCsid=3686b34d59fb606cce739b0716391800, http://www.mdiwoodcarvers.com/productslist.aspx?categoryID=15 There are lots of suppliers, you can do a google search for more. Tom

Start by cutting your pieces oversize, do your forming, cut of the oversize parts containing the nail holes, and throw them away. Tom

Thanks. Good ideas Tom

If it works with your leather interiors now with the treadle, it will work with a servo too. Just need the servo, mounting bolts (if not supplied with the servo) and a belt to fit. So first thing I would do is see if you are happy with the stitching job it does now. If it is doing a good job, then go for the servo. Or do like my mom did. When she wasn't well, I ran the treadle while she did the sewing. Find a neighbor kid willing to work for cookies. Tom

A combination of possibilities. 1. Too thin leather 2. Leather too wet 3. Too much force (too much pounding) On thin leather you may not be able to get some of the detail to show before you have cut the main outline. Thicker leather will let you see any detail that may be inside the main outline of the letters. Tom

Thanks Chancey Tom

I see a number of negative comments on some very good videos. There are some people out there that have nothing better to do than pull others down and make negative comments. Don't let them get to you. There are a lot of people that appreciate your instruction and comments. I hope you keep helping everyone. I appreciate your work and comments. Tom

Hey Chief, where did the videos go? Tom

Try a google search for leather book binding conservation. A number of libraries have posted their procedures for fixing bindings. Tom

You will nearly always get some marks with soft leather. Try reducing the presser foot pressure some more. If the needle lifts the leather as it is being pulled out, and lifts the presser foot, add a little pressure back. Dyeing before assembly lets you work with flat surfaces and is easier. You can touch up a little after assembly if needed and if careful. After assembly, you can trim edges to match, dye and burnish. Tom

Great looking saddlebags. Tough, durable, looks like they will serve you a long time. Tom

Reduce the presser foot pressure, but not so much that the foot lifts when the needle is pulling out. Lower pressure, less marking. Don't use wet leather. Use a spoon to smooth out the tracks, or a flat faced hammer to tap them flat. Tom

Don't lift the presser foot too high else you lose the top tension, but you know that I'm sure. The other thing is to not turn the leather while the loop is forming for the hook to pick it up. I saw another thread a while ago and it told at what point in the needle stroke to make the turn. And I see that Eric has just given the detail I was missing while I was typing this. Good luck Tom

Might have to let it dry for a couple more days until the glue is fully set. Tom

Why don't you add your info to the original post instead of starting a new thread? Would make a lot more sense and reduce the confusion for everybody. Tom

Good project for kids to do too. Great ideas Tom

As JustKate says, and include all your steps, what was used for antique, etc. drying times, buffing, ... Tom

Oil dye is mostly spirit dye Tom

Check this link if you haven't already seen it. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29323&hl= Tom