Northmount

I've found the green self-healing cutting mats, all nicely ruled off, help me keep the leather and rule or straight edge lined up and square. I've been known to clamp a 4' long aluminum rule like wall boarders use over top the mat, to the edge of the bench to keep that edge locked in position. Then it is easier to keep that edge of the leather lined up and in place against the rule. Cut the piece a little oversize, then you can line up a straight edge with the grid on the mat (parallel to the clamped rule) and make trim cuts. For 90 degree cuts, I use a steel square butted against the clamped rule. Before tooling an item, start with your piece cut oversize, then square up and trim to size after tooling. I've used this on a three piece 3 ring binder for cutting and for assembly to to keep the long edge of the binder straight during glue up. Did both the outside of the binder and the inside lining this way. Binder folds correctly and sits perfectly square standing in a shelf. Was a huge relief! Heavy rule and large drafting triangles help for doing layout marks before cutting. Still cut oversize and trim later, especially when gluing multiple layers together. In this case, trim after gluing. Hope this helps give you some ideas to adapt to your projects. Tom

The heavier the leather you are going to sew, the smaller you want the motor pulley. Machine heads that only have a 4" pulley will need a pulley speed reducer set when sewing leather 1/4" thick, else needs hand wheeled to start, and might be a little fast to control on short runs and intracate curves. Tom

Try searching for fabric leather cement. One of the results will be this one http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42898&hl=+fabric%20+leather%20+cement#entry266945. See #3. Tom

Tandy has tips and accessories

CustomDoug, the old grump has some of the best input, including previous comments. One of the previous comments he made was to mount the shaft with the burnisher vertical so you can see more easily exactly what you are doing. There are short arbor extensions that can be added to any 1/2 or 5/8" motor shaft so you don't need all the extra bearings and shaft like you found on Grizzly. Take a look at https://www.swmetal.... and Extensions and you will see lots of choices, even for dremels. The typical one you would use is https://www.swmetal....em?itemID=11989. They used to be available in a lot of hardware stores, so you might find one locally. This combination with a 1725 rpm motor (or slower furnace fan motor) could be mounted so it hangs off the side or end of your bench with the shaft vertical. It would give you lots of working clearance around it for larger items and allow you to see exactly what is happening as you burnish. Depending on the type of burnisher you are going to use, you could use a tapered spin-on like https://www.swmetal....em?itemID=11973. With it, you can use a stepped burnisher, stepped right down to a small point for belt holes. Alternatively, you can drill and tap the burnisher to fit the item 11989 and just screw it on. Watch your motor rotation direction, or you may launch the burnisher! I've used my own burnisher on a lathe. Gives me variable speed, but not very convenient. I think I'll build a dedicated machine using a stepped burnisher, motor shaft vertical with fan motor speed control like the Grump says. Tom I seel Lee Valley has arbor mounts too. http://www.leevalley...072,45939,41743

http://www.classicbells.com/verlane/verlane.html scroll down to projects Tom

Some pictures might help with visualizing the pieces you are describing. Then you'll probably get tons of answers in no time. If there is any iron containing metal behind any of this, magnetic tape might hold it in place. The tape is not strong so some friction fit would help. Note to that the double sided tape used on magnetic tape dries out and falls off. So gluing the tape to the leather should last longer. Tom

Another thread said they should have used wider plates because some of the cutting dies were too long so they had to do part, then move over for the next bite. I'm thinking of something like 12 x 18" wide. There is lots of bottom support. Might need something to stiffen the top plate somewhat. It will be good to hear your feedback too. Tom

I know this is an old thread, but is there any chance of getting the pictures replaced or links fixed? Thanks, Tom

Great work. Since I have never built a saddle, I'm following this closely and really looking forward to the next post. Keep it up. Tom

See http://shop.raphaelsewing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=402 for an example. Depends a lot on the style of your machine table. I made attachment that is wider and deeper. Has three legs on hinges so folds up for storage. I like the larger flat surface vs the smaller commercial table. Small table is fine for many things, but a 3" 3 ring binder needs more support Tom

For 3/8" and under, also look at Techsew 2700 or Cowboy CB227R along with the flatbed attachment. Gives you both open arm when you need it and flat bed when you need it. My 2700 is doing a good job for me. Tom

Look at http://leatherworker...one#entry203688 for some ideas Here is one for a BB Torch 9800 ripped apart. BB Case 9800.pdf This pdf has not been scaled, so if you turn off scale to fit, it will print actual size. I suspect you may have trouble reading some of my notes. My writing has become very shakey some days over the past 5 years. The OEM BB Case was sewen on a serger likely so has almost zero seam allowance. So probably add at least 1/8" all the way around. For thicker leather, use more. The front and back magnets turn off the screen when in the pouch. Sensor is in the back of the BB. So with a magnet on the front and back, it doesn't matter whcih way it goes in the case. Cut the strap extra long. Depends on your leather thickness as to how long it actually needs to be. Thicker the leather, longer strap required. The microfibre lining is not shown in the photo. You could use any soft leather with the suede (flesh) side against the phone. Kind of wipes it like the microfibre stuff does. Dimensions for BBs are available on their site, for the Torch 9800, see http://ca.blackberry...-specifications If the case is made too snug, the little switches on the sides of the phone will be activated when the BB is forced into the case. That will cause software/firmware problems and can cause the BB to hang. Then the battery has to be removed, so the phone can reboot. Your client won't like that (even if it is for your phone). Tom

Variable speed drills are cheap and readily available, already have a chuck, and only need a simple shop made fixture to hold them. Agree with st8. Don't need to over think the problem. Also don't need to thread the motor shaft. Should be lots available for real cheap at garage sales and flea markets. Tom

Search for drill chuck or Jacobs chuck. Be careful of the mount you select. Threaded are available in 3/8" x 24 tpi or 1/2" x 20 tpi. So you will need to use a die to thread the shaft. Note that this is fine thread, not coarse thread. A couple links: http://www.jacobschuck.com/images/products/JC-003%20200%20Series%20No%20Crops.pdf http://www.sears.com/jacobs-3-8-in-keyless-replacement-drill-chuck-with-3-8/p-00920970000P Lots of replacement chucks around with key or keyless. Take one off a junked drill that's no good any more. Some are locked to the drill shaft with a screw from the inside. Open the jaws up all the way so you can see the bottom. The screw (if there is one) will have left hand thread instead of the normal right hand thread, so it doesn't come loose when you reverse the drill. Tom

I have seen people use either oil or water on carborundum stones. Most use oil. Which ever you use, don't swap back and forth between oil and water. Waterstones are a soft stone (usually) and use only water. They need to be soaked first before being used. They also need to be flattened periodically. Carborundum can be used dry. But you will get a smoother more polished surface on your blade with oil. Sort of makes a thin grinding compound. Tom

Great detail. Like the cow's whiskers!

Do a search for clicker, die, press, jack. Try the search in different combinations. Lots of recent discussions. Tom

Depends on the size of drill press Depends on the size of the drill press. Also the drill press table will be in your road. So a cradle for your electric or cordless drill would be much easier to work around. A cradle is easy to make from a few scraps of wood and can be clamped or bolted to the bench. If you have an old drill you don't use much since you got a cordless, you could permanently attach the drill to the cradle with a long hose clamp. Tom

Here are a couple for you to salivate over: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34075&hl=%2Brope+%2Bcan http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30770&hl=+rope%20+can#entry192532 Tom

The appearance of this one is much improved in my opinion. You could sew around the bottom edge of the front flap (below the snap) as well. Looks like it was missed. (Looks lonesome) Practise sure makes a difference doesn't it. CTG

The metal bookshelf type frame material looks a little on the weak side, even though is is under tension rather than bending. Here is one that I think will stand up to heavier usage and still be low cost to build. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22164&hl=%2Bholster+%2Bpress+%2Bjpg CTG

I likle my Techsew 2700. Does a great job. You can add a flat table adaptor to it so you have both the flat bed and cylinder arm. If you are going to work on the heavier end like 2 layers of 8 oz, I would add a speed reduction pulley as well. CTG

TurtleFeathers.net will get you farther than .com will. http://turtlefeather...ngelus/dye.html for dyes.

Carving gouges are better, shorter length, 4 to 8" long roughly. Lathe gouges (except for miniature work) are 24" or more long. Carving gouges should be a little lower priced too. CTG Here are a couple links to carving gouges: http://www.woodcarverswarehouse.com/_e/dept/04-001-001/Flexcut_Palm_Tools.htm http://www.chippingaway.com/Search.htm?q=gouge