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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Great job. I like it. Now for the purse? Tom
  2. Nice job, cute cat too! Tom
  3. Looks great! Have you a view of the inside too? Tom
  4. Thanks for the update. I think you are doing an extremely great job. Tom
  5. Asked again last week. Do a search and you will find a lot of posts about wood stain and wood dye. Search box is in the upper right hand of your screen. Tom
  6. Very nice, makes a bit of a tutorial for others interested in building their own wallet including the liner work. Will be much appreciated by many, not only for showing the steps, but fine craftsmanship too. Tom
  7. You can make your own (if you can get the ingredients and I think you should be able to), take a look at this thread http://leatherworker...ipe#entry258687 Searching LW will probably find several other recipes too. And for an oil/wax finish, note the tip above to use a hair dryer to help melt it in, especially with any tooling. Saddle Lac should be okay as a spray ... so you don't have to rub it on. I haven't used it. As Sylvia has noted, an acrylic floor cleaner/polish cut 50/50 will work too. But needs to be sprayed on, else it can lift your water based dye as well when you are swabbing it on. I haven't had much luck with ordinary spray bottles. They spit too much instead of leaving a nice overall spray. An airbrush works well. You will find lots of info here if you do a search for airbrush. Tom
  8. All finishes have a solvent of some sort. Lacquer finishes have a very strong solvent, acetone, toululene, or other similar chemicals. These strong solvents work really well at lifting dyes, especially water based ones. So as mentioned above, make sure the dyed area is really dry, at least 8 hours. Buff well to remove any surface pigments, then if possible, use a spray finish. Other options 1. Use a brush and paint your finish onto only the dyed area. If you have multiple colours, then clean your brush between areas and don't overlap. Let that finish cure and dry completely before applying your finish over the whole article. 2. Use a wax/oil based finish. Less chance of dissolving any surface dye. An option for cleaning up your problem piece is to flood it with lots of your finish, working fast so you can soften and remove the tinted finish, using lots of fresh rags or even paper towel, and keep adding new finish, diluting and scrubbing off the old finish. You should be able to remove most of the tinted finish. Acetone or deglazer will remove finishes too, though they tend to dry the leather out a lot and likely will give you a bad headache. Worse than the finish. Need lots of fresh air! Tom
  9. You can check out the scrap bin at Tandy or other sellers a buy just the one piece you want. Scrap bag gets more pieces but might not have what you want and becomes more waste. Tom
  10. I would remove the piece with the hole worn through so you don't have the loose edge or bulk getting in your road. Might be worthwhile to use one pair of gloves as parts for others. Palms and backs can be cut to whatever shapes you need. Good project for sitting watching TV. Tom
  11. Anything you can lace can probably be sewen so don't limit yourself to sewing patterns. Various key cases, luggage tags, wallets, book slip covers, stitched edges on belts, etc. then you can move onto more complicated shapes ... Purses, bags, back packs, garments depending on your leather and machine types. Tom
  12. Try acetone, dissolves many things. It is the solvent used for lacquer. As long as the threads are deep enough into the female half, you can grind or file it shorter. Fit it into a piece of leather to use as a holder. Might save some of your skin if you slip. Tom
  13. These covers are looking really good. Nice to be able to etch meaningful photos on the covers. Gives clients a lot of options as to what "belongs" on their cover. Keep up the good work. Tom
  14. Welcome. I'm from Calgary Tom
  15. Here is one of his recent posts here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=43145&hl=blackthorn Tom
  16. I should try that, scare the heck out of my grandkids! Unique. I like it. Tom
  17. Very nice! Looks like you are having fun. Tom
  18. Yup! PM sent.
  19. Do a search here for wood stain and you will find a few posts. Also search for wood dye. More info there too. Tom
  20. I see on their website they like to do contacts using Skype. Can see why now. Nobody can tell what your facility really looks like or where the "office/warehouse" really is. There area a lot of places selling off the web with no stock of their own, and often at a higher price than going to the source. BeaverSlayer ... Thanks for the info. I was thinking of dropping in on them someday soon. Wouldn't need to waste the time now. Tom
  21. Unsubscribe only works with reputable companies. Spammers either ignore it, or register your email address as a valid address. Makes their list more valuable to sell to other spammers. Tom
  22. Hi Bill Are you talking about pop-up ads or the info that pops up when your mouse is on a poster's name like in this screen capture? As mentioned by previous posters, there are no "ad Pop-ups" on LW. As for all the spam you get in your email, the only way to deal with that is to use a spam filter, generally on the server side so you never ever see the spam. However, good email from new contacts often gets trapped unless you have some sort of registration process. The best way to prevent spam is not to ever post your email address in a public location. If you want to give someone on LW your email address, use something like "billsmail at gmail dot com" so your email address is not recognizable to bots that are scanning all public sites looking for email addresses. Once you are on a spam list, the only way to stop the spam is to change to a new email address. Some sites require you to register with your email address to be able to download files or for access to further information. Many of these sites exist solely to harvest email addresses and sell to spammers. If you are going to register on these types of sites, use an email address that you set up for only that purpose. Then you can just dump all the email (spam) that gets delivered to that address. As for how long an email address stays on a spammer's list? It's basically in circulation forever. I recently revived an email address I used to use over 10 years ago. Within 24 hours I had spam on that address, and not because I had registered for any new garbage during that period. It was still in circulation after 10 years. Just posting your address in the open on LW will get you spam within 24 hours, so it has to be disguised. So now is the time to start changing your email addresses and habits if you want to stop wasting time on spam. Tom
  23. Tennis elbow and golfer's elbow are tendon damage due to sudden stretching / straining impact. Tennis elbow from a backhand hit, golfer's elbow from a regular swing. Golfer's elbow gets the inside (next to your body) side of the elbow, tennis elbow gets the outside side of the elbow. Same type of tendon / ligament damage, just opposite sides of the elbow. By the way, arthritis in your elbow can be misdiagnosed as tennis or golfer's elbow. I'd hate to see what your leather looks like if you are hitting that hard with your mallet! Happy stamping! Tom
  24. There is an "untitled" column to the right of the "Size" column. It has a small button with an arrowhead. Left click the button and select download. You can then save the PDF version where ever you want to and be able to open it with your PDF reader of choice. Then you can scale, print, etc. Tom
  25. Did you let it dry for 24 hours before the edge kote? Sounds like it didn't adhere to the smooth burnished surface. Saddle soap is kind of waxy, and most things don't want to stick to a waxy or oiled surface. Also how long did you let it dry before buffing it? I think all these things are working against you. Do an experiment on some scrap (same leather) paying attention to all these items. I guess your experiment could be to see if it works if there is enough drying time, and on the down side, see if you can sand the edge off lightly to get rid of the edge kote, dye the edge, then buff and burnish as before (without edge kote). If it is the saddle soap that is preventing the edge kote from staying in place, then try just water for burnishing. Hope you can work it out without too much more pain. Tom
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