mulefool

The concept is good, but a cheesecloth covered tree is pretty weak and then you've put alot of work into it. I'm sure you'll learn alot taking it apart, whether you redo it or not. I've got a couple old wrecks hanging around the shop and I've been meaning to advertise them on here in case some one wanted to redo one. They both have solid rawhide covered wood trees. I haven't looked at them in awhile. If anybody is interested I'll pull them out and take a look at them again. Chris

I made extra money playing in various bluegrass bands in the 80's. I play guitar and bass fiddle. Haven't really played much for about 10 years. I pulled out the old Martin the other day since we were going to a party with some other musicians and I wanted to see how rusty I was. Yikes, those steel strings are kind of rough when you don't have your callouses anymore. Chris

I usually charge $225.00 to 250.00. One thing I have found is that some really cheap saddles are built with tons of staples shot into the bars to hold the skirts on. These can be a real bear to find and pull out before you can even get the skirts off. If I suspect that I will tell the customer it might be the higher figure. Kind of ironic since the cheap saddle really isn't worth putting as much money into. Chris

Thanks for posting the picture, I wondered how your project was coming along, and it looks like it turned out well. Looks like he will make a nice pack horse, I've heard good things about those Haflingers. Chris

after 25 years in business I know to pay attention to that little voice that tells me I don't really want that job. Ignore that voice at your peril! Chris

I like the way you did the rosettes. Chris

That second set of pics sure makes the lump on the near side more obvious. I built a saddle for a customer many years ago and he was having a problem with it on a new horse he bought. I went out to look at the horse and it looked alot like this horse as far as being really built up on one side. I suggested he consult with a vet or chiropractor to see if there was something he could do to even the horse up. He worked on some specific exercises and has been riding the horse with no problem for about 10 years now. It would be interesting to watch this horse travel. Chris

Any tool from Bob Douglas will be a dandy. He makes the best awl handles and blades IMO. Also a real nice stitch groover. I've gotten some real nice edgers from Rons tools as well. A nice tool makes work a great pleasure. Chris

Looking at that back doesn't look bad to me either. Maybe I'm off, but his shoulders just don't seem that big in the photo. It would be interesting to get some of Dennis's cards on him. Chris

As far as I have always known mule hide is just what folks call apron splits. I figured it got that name since it's good for tough jobs, just like a real mule. As you might guess from my name I'm a fool for mules and could talk about them for hours. But mercifully, I won't. They're tough, they're smart (sometimes too smart). They like to sit back and mull over whether a particular task will fit into their plans for the day. The task for the human is to make sure it does. One other thing about hinnies. I have a friend rides one, he looks just like a mule to me. I've seen others that seem more horse like. An interesting thing I just learned recently is that the conception rate for the hinny (stallion+jennet) is only about 20%. Also while a jack ass will breed about anything, a stallion will be much more discriminating and often refuse to breed a jennet. Anyway these things would explain why hinnies are just not that common. Chris

That brings up an interesting point. About 30 years ago when I was just learning to build saddles I had an opportunity to talk with Jerry Holes. I asked a question about hard to fit horses and he said if he had one that was hard to fit he'd get rid of it. I was alittle taken aback at the time, but over the years I have come to see the wisdom of those words. When I was starting out I built some saddles for these kinds of horses and in retrospect I wish I hadn't. That said, we all have our blind spots. I love mules and they mostly aren't blessed with the perfect back to hold a saddle. Chris

Herb Bork makes a pair that is pretty round, but they are cast manganese bronze, so I don't know if they would work for you, but they do have a pretty round shape. If you are going to cover them anyway maybe it doesn't matter? Chris

If God didn't want us to eat animals he wouldn't have made them out of meat! Chris

I believe it is machine stitched, too. I wonder why they didn't burn the thread where they ended. It seems like it would look cleaner and hold better.

Well I think it's a good sign you were able to take in some of that "tough love" and not get your back up. Good luck on working things out.

Excellent question. We just got a new (to us) computer and most of my pics are on the old one for now. This was the first pic I came to so I used it. But after I posted it I thought Darn! should have been a mule! Chris

I think I got it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Thanks!Chris

Denise thank you very much for posting this. I've wanted to post some pics for a long time, but am not too computer savvy so this will be helpful. I'll give it a try one of these days. Chris

Congratulations! Chris

I really don't know about the kits although that one looks to be better quality than some that I've seen. Have you thought about rebuilding a worn out saddle that still has a sound tree? YOu could pick up a worn out saddle for pretty cheap and with the help of one of the books or videos out there you could learn alot. If you mess up then you aren't out too much, other than the leather. I learned from Jesse Smith back in the early eighties. He helped me develop an appreciation for attention to detail that I might not have had if left to my own devices. (Although I'm finding that reading some of the saddle critiques on this board are helping me to refine it further). I would think there's still some folks around Spokane that could give you some feedback as well. Good Luck Chris

The thought of somebody enjoying a great ride on a good horse or mule and looking down and seeing my name on their saddle, years after I'm gone gives me a good feeling, too. Chris

those look great, it would probably take me TEN years to get them finished. I do have a tip on keeping the hair away from your sewing. I do make a fair number of anqueros (the saddlebags with the angora flap) I pull the angora away from the stitch line and then run a line of packing tape over it to hold it back. I also clip the angora down to the skin right at the hair line where the stitch will go. when they are finished I pull the tape and the long hairs cover where I clipped it down. Not sure if that will work in all situations but it's helped me keep from tearing my own hair out. Chris

I found the thinner pieces of granite like you would get with a cut out didn't hold up to lots of heavy basket stamping. I kept having pieces break off. About 10 years ago I got a granite surface plate about 3" thick. it been great and it wasn't that expensive either, maybe $80.00 or so.

I can't really add anything to what been said, but I just wanted to mention for some reason by the time I transfer my carving to the leather and finish it, the negative space always seems bigger, and I shade in the background on the paper to get a sense of that. I did want to say I think it's great you got some inspiration from the Thai restuarant. Sometimes we get stuck thinking the carving has to be a certain way, but there is so much inspiration out there from other sources. Now I'm hungry for some Phad Thai. chris

I really like the combination of stamps you used. I hadn't seen the two used together before. I sure like these critiques of the really finer points because I have had some things brought to my attention that I never would have even noticed on my own. For example the billets curving out. I'll be looking at my own from now on that's for sure. I do have a question on trimming the woolskin. I do have some hand sheep shears that are real sharp and do a pretty good job til I get to the area that curves just a bit under where the fender lays. I can't get them at the right angle because they run into the skirt, so I go to some regular scissors. but I'm thinking electric clippers would work better. Someone mentioned the correct blade. What would that be? Anyway you know you've built a nice saddle when the critiques consist of the finer points. Chris