Nutty Saddler

I use a screw crease to mark a line at the correct distance from the edge and then I use a pricking iron to mark where the stitches go - pricking irons come in all sizes from 4/inch to 17-18/inch. - see - How I make a bridle - thread for pics

Sorry for the delay in replying but I have been off forum for a while. The thread I use is 3/18 reverse twist linen thread that I pull through beeswax prior to use. I use an edge stain on all exposed edges and on all skived/split surfaces. Patterns are normally drawn on paper to get looking right and to get the correct size , this is then pinned into place ( using the pricking marks for holes) and traced over which leaves the pattern on the leather - this takes a bit of practice as you only get one chance to get it right . The pattern is then pricked out - sometimes one prick at a time - stitching is also a careful process as if a thread is pulled too tight it can tear the pattern , pattern stitching is completed with 3/25 thread. I get my threads and stains from ABBEY England

Thank you! Appreciate that.

Hi, does anyone know where I can find a stamp of a barefoot hoofprint - i.e. not a horse-shoe print, but barefoot hoof? Would need to be around 20mm. Thanks!

I am in the middle of making a pairs carriage harness for my neighbour , I can tell you first hand that to hand make a harness is not easy and takes a huge ammount of time . please bear in mind that I AM the Nutty Saddler - this means no machines , so a single 6' trace has 4 rows of stitching at 8/inch , which is 2300 stitches - there are 2 pairs of traces which makes 9200 stitches for the traces alone ( all by hand ) - I will post some pictures when I'm finished ( about this side of never , but only just ) What was it you wanted to know specifically and I will do my best to answer if I can.

Yes you have to compensate for the leather narrowing because of the insert. As with manythings saddlery it is a good idea to go to a sale and buy some really old stuff that is in really bad condition ( normally really cheap ) , you can then take these things apart and see how they are made - this should give you methods and measurements which you can use in future projects without going through all the trial and error of having to figure things out for yourself - and if you get old properly made stuff you can see how it's done properly.

Some are molded prior to manufacture , but most have not been . You have to make the pad by wrapping a piece of soft panel or upholstery hide around a foam/neoprene filler - this is then stitched to the noseband . to get the shape insert a piece of leather or rope - the larger the insert the bigger the shape. Be careful to make sure that when doing the first line of stitching the pad is in the correct place , it is easy to misplace this as when the insert is placed the leather bends round this and makes the top piece slightly narrower - again the bigger the insert the more this becomes evident . hope this helps

If money were no object I would still sew everything by hand and go buy a Ferrari.

As with everything quality comes at a price but it is best in the long run - when I buy my tools I only buy good quality tools ---- but I only have to buy them once , I don't always buy them new , some of my tools are older than I am but as they were quality when they were made they still are quality now. I only use the best hides as well , being a horse rider as well as a saddler I know how important it is to use the best materials , the last thing I need is a lawsuit because something I made broke because it was made from poor leather . One real difficuilty I have is many potential customers don't want to part with the extra $$$ , they aren't leatherworkers themselves and don't understand about leather quality - I make a bridle for a horse at $150 - they see a similar one for $30 / $40 , you can try to explain that it is imported from india / china and really poorly made but half the time they don't care , all they see is $$$

Try Fiebings deglazer

I have SIX cats in my workshop !!! All my leather has to be hung up all the time and any paperwork left on the desk gets chewed - gives a new twist on my cat ate my homework !

Dixons are normally really good - if you contact them and ask them to make you a 7/inch pricking iron but with a width/thickness similar to that of a 10 or 12 they will probably do it for you . As they mill the tools themselves , special requests are not a problem - they made me a 16 / inch tool which is not listed in any catalogue . An old pricking iron is also an option as they never used to be so fat - I have an old 8 / inch which is about half as thick as my new one

Fiebings produce a white dye - I have used the acrylic and it works quite well , would be no problem for belts

I only use pre-dyed leather ( unless someone wants pink ....... ) colour is consistent over the whole hide and they are also pre-greased as part of the finishing process - all I have to do is stain and polish the cut edges Depends on what sort of harness you are talking about - being an English saddler I think of horse harness before all else , I get most of my hides from Claytons of chesterfield and have had no poblems over the last 19 years . Makers marks are more permenant if the stamp is heated first . I also hand stitch everything - as a horse owner / rider I want all of my work to be the best I can make - I know hand stitch is stronger and will not do anything else , I understand the use of machines as a time saving is important and many people just don't have the time to hand sew - ( I am currently making a full size pairs harness completly by hand -utterly mad , I know )

Are you sure they are J.Dixon tools - did you buy them new Most of my tools are Joseph Dixon and the crew, oval , hole and chisel punches have never had to be re-sharpened , they were all sharp when purchased and have stayed in perfect condition - and some of mine are 18 years old now . In my opinion Joseph dixon tools are amongst the best except knives ( try Solingen ) - if you contact them direct they will make tools to your specification with little fuss ( they made my 16/inch pricking iron )

As far as I know curriers grease can be used on other leather products , but I can't say for sure . Connelly Leather ( now ceased trading ) uses a Lanoline beeswax formula - this comes from sheep rather than cows and their hide food is used on a softer range of leather goods ( Rolls Royce cars used Connelly leather ) For me personaly I use curriers grease , sedgwicks produce a really good product pre-made - this eliminates the smelly/messy procedure if you do it yourself and I'm happy to use it on all my leather from my saddles to my shoes. You can use curriers grease on non-English bridle bends , however if the tannery process is bad the leather will be bad - it will not matter if the correct grease is used or not . If you good bridle bends then this grease will work for them as well as any other product - try to steer clear of 100% neatsfoot as this is not really good for bridlework.

Tallow wax is known by other names The leather manufacturing ( especially saddlery leather ) uses what is called curriers grease - the formula for making it varies depending on who makes it but the basic process is hundreds of years old - an old book of mine ( circa 1905 ) outlines how to make it. 2/3 rendered beef fat ( tallow ) 1/3 neatsfoot oil add some beeswax and cod liver oil melt the whole lot in a pan - don't let it boil - and stir it until mixed completly , then lt it cool . You should end up with a greasy substance - this is about the best you can get for bridle leather .

For my padding I use panel hide or upholestery hide - I don't know the weight as I buy my leather by type i.e Bridle leather , Stirrup leather , Panel hide etc.

The longest piece of thread I use is about 3m - anything beyond that gets really difficult

A customer has asked me to make a bridle, which is all straightforward, apart from she wants this too: I need a price for the Bosal including the 6 rings, as in the photo. I don't have the time/material to make one, so please, can some of you on here who make these amazing Bosals let me have a price? PM me if you prefer. Many thanks, Nutty.

I do nothing but hand stitch - no matter what the project . I have never owned a machine for stitching and for a fact I never will . My largest stitch would be 8 stitches per inch , my smallest 17 stitches per inch , my biggest single item would be a pair of harness traces 2m+ long 1 & 1/4 wide, double thickness and stitched with two rows on each edge from end to end .

Hi MT3Geiger Again thanks for the comment , the hinged metal part in the middle is what we call a Lunge Cavesson Iron - some of the manufacturers make them without the hinge , it is one of the items that I get from Abbeysaddlery that doesn't appear in their catalogue but is sold by them. could you please PM me your e-mail address and we can talk prices

They say that there is a fine line between genius and madness ..... and that an Aquarian has one foot on either side. Enough said