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harrington

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Everything posted by harrington

  1. harrington
    Thanks all for your replies. i have an older Consew model 18 flatbed with a walking foot that may be the ideal machine to get the attachment made for. I also have a Ferdco 2000 cylinder arm but i use it for chaps and saddle work. i will check them out for a custom made binder attachment. thanks, Tom
  2. harrington
    My wife learned to hand build felt hats a few years ago and we have been collecting the blocks, hand tools, steamers, etc for a few years, but she still sews the edge bindings on by hand. Very tedious and time consuming. i know there is a machine out there that will precisely and easily sew that edge binding ribbon on the hat and think I have heard a Singer 108K20 may have been one of those machines. Does anyone have such a beast or any knowledge and experience? Thanks for the help. Tom Harrington
  3. harrington

    Blood Knot

    harrington replied to papaw's topic in Leather Tools

    Yes, Ron's Tools makes a pair, he calls them bleeder pliers. One edge is sharpened and a very sharp point that you use like a regular bleeder, but then you can pull the tip of the string back through the hole you just cut.
  4. harrington
    get an edger and some elbow grease on the edges, not bad beyond that.
  5. harrington
    Keith, would you have a source for that laser?
  6. harrington
    CO Saddlery hasn't built a quality saddle in 50 years
  7. harrington
    I'll take it at $75
  8. harrington
    Call Connie Naegle at Campbell-Randall in Texas. He rebuilt an old Randall for me and was a wealth of information. My only regret is that I didn't get to spend a week with him. Still learning about my machine. The company number is 800-327-9420.
  9. harrington
    Darin Alexander from artcords.com sells them.
  10. harrington
    Where are you located? Where are you located? Can contact me at tharrington@montrose.net
  11. harrington
    Definitely interested when you get your inventory together. Maybe all or part.
  12. harrington
    Practice, sharp swivel knife, well cased leather, couple miles of straight lines and you'll be better.
  13. harrington
    Thanks for your advice, Geneva. I am trying to get hold of a finer measuring device, micrometer or fine calipers maybe, as it is tough to get my steel ruler or tape in any consistent place between the rollers and consistently measure one point to another. It is splitting fairly consistent with the new, sharp blade installed, but depending on the piece of leather, it will still wad up with a wider piece now and then. Tom
  14. harrington
    Not sure if this is the right forum to post in, but I bought a lightly used 20" Artisan splitter that was splitting uneven and would wad up the leather on a wider piece. I checked the blade, had a bad spot in it, put a brand new sharp blade in it and am trying to get it adjusted properly. I am getting close, I think, but still will have trouble on a wider piece. Seems to work best if I adjust the thickness to split off in smaller increments. Anyone out there have some expertise in these contraptions? I would like to be able to level wider pieces like fenders and ground seat pieces, just don't want to waste a big piece of expensive skirting. Thanks for the help. Tom
  15. harrington
    Steve Mason was looking for a Landis 3 about a month ago. I think he lost his whole shop to a fire this winter.
  16. harrington
    Did you forget to do your decorative cuts? I kind of like the point to the front of the horn, like a Guadalajara style, but not. Really nice sewing and nice domed shape to the top of the horn.
  17. harrington
    Pickup the Jeremiah Watt videos and the Stohlman books. With basic skills already learned, these resources will give you all you need to build your first saddle. Good luck, you won't regret any of the time you spend on this endeavor.
  18. harrington
    We have a few of those secret spots over here I might be able to share. Have you ever run this splitter, is it 110 or 220, is the 26" measured as the width of a piece you could pass through it? thanks, Tom
  19. harrington
    I live on the western slope, could I maybe come by to see it? I am very interested.
  20. harrington
    I agree that Jeremiah Watt's video is very good, probably better for a first time saddle maker than Dale Harwood's. I have both sets, I'm on my 6th saddle and still refer to both all the time.
  21. harrington
    My opinion is that a heavy doubled and stitched flat plate properly molded and attached to the base of the fork at the junction of the bars, then covered by the fork cover, will be as strong as anyone will ever need. Attaching this piece of nylon strap would be hard to do given where the handhole is. The fewer synthetic materials in my saddles, the better.
  22. harrington
    Ralph, I have a Randall that I would sell, it was last used about 5 years ago and needs a serious cleaning. I am heading to Santa Ynez for a ranch roping on 10/26-27. Is that close enough to you that you might be able to drive down to see it if I bring it with me? I have the machine and a huge amount of spare parts in a small drawer cabinet. The old table was homemade and would not be easily transported, so you would need a new power source and table from Campbell/Randall. Let me know if you're interested. If you give me an email, it would be easier for me to send you photos of the machine and all the parts I have. Tom
  23. harrington
    Look on the site for Beary's mauls. Barry King also sells some on his website, I have 3 Kings and they are great.
  24. harrington
    I don't think you'll see anything show through your fork cover, unless it is really thin. I assume you are using at least 10-12 oz leather, even cased heavily, I don't think you will see any ridge show through.
  25. harrington
    I would just go on from here, cover my fork like it was never a mistake. I really don't see a major problem from your pictures.
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