Shooter McGavin

1) Brown 2) Good question. 3) The stitch between the loop allows you to stitch all of the loops with one continuous stitch. 4) I've done it the first way, then decided I dint like it because with a little effort, you could pull the ammo loops through the back of the belt. The 2nd way you describe wouldnt allow that. 5) saves work? I dont like it.

Sorry Wishful, no pattern on that one. Just rough sketched, cut, then worked by hand till I got something I liked.

gloves, particle. disposable nitrile gloves.

I see 1 soft spot on the holster, and 1 on the cartridge case. Looks awesome though! How does that cartridge case work? Does the "pocket" flip out once unsnapped and dump them into your hand?

Ya I stitched the toe closed when the leather was pretty wet. The side stitching is doubled up and the dang welt was moving around on me causing some shift. I like the look of a heavy thread on these holsters but my 277 needed to be doubled back to get that thick look. I know it sounds like excuses, but.... I'll try to have more patience next time. Thanks all!

So I made a dual layer shark trimmed gunbelt for a buddy of mine. The end with the buckle holes is pretty thick, maybe like 5/16... The roller bar buckles I normally use from Tandy want to sit at about a 45 degree angle which isnt sexy at all. I'm thinking I need a buckle that has an offset or something. Can anyone help me out? Thanks!

I find that, generally speaking, the stuff not far sale in Cali is usually the best. I love living in a free state.

Got mine yesterday Carl. , Thanks a bunch!

I like it Mike. Thanks for the help! I sold him the 457 about 16 years ago because I didnt like the recoil of a 45 lol. When he brought it over for me to make the holster, I couldnt believe he still had it! Memories.

Thanks for the feedback! re: exposed trigger. I'm not concerned on that one. As long as the strap is snapped, the trigger will not actuate the hammer. Ya, I know, Murphys law. But, if I cover the trigger like Mikes holster, I wont need the snap strap at all. re: snap location. It's off the trigger guard, but not by much. I epoxied a plastic snap cover like I use on thumb breaks to it, just in case. re: exposed hammer. I certainly did not consider the hammer tearing stuff up. Hmmmmmm re: open toe. The Stohlman book says leave 3/4" of leather after the muzzle, which I did. My initial stitching left the toe open, but there sure was a lot of extra leather, so I stitched it closed, which explains the track marks on the bottom edge as well. I prefer open toed holsters myself. re: rounded toe. I couldnt figure out how to do this, but looking at Mikes holster I think the answer dawned on me. He also has a S&W 457 semi-auto he would like a similar holster for. I'll build that one next and work some of these revisions into it. I do appreciate you all taking the time to comment!

cool seat! I'd love to see the whole bike!

Love it.

Honestly, it feels quite weird on me when I tried it on. However, I've only ever worn pakcake holsters, and then only between 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock. Having the holster at 11 o'clock is so far from where I train and carry that I'm not sure even a perfect holster would feel right there. If I make another retention strap, I'm thinking I may reinforce the underside with rawhide or kydex. Is the Snow-Proof safe to use as a final finish. Everything else I've ever done has had a final finish of super sheen or satin sheen, or a mixture thereof. Thanks for the feedback. Thread drift alert: I've been trying to find a finish for the belts that I make that is not an acrylic sealant. Any help on that problem?

So, I have an uncle who wants a crossdraw holster for his Colt Lawman .357 Magnum. He also doesnt like the "fancy" holsters I typically make. So i opened up the Al Stohlman "Holsters" book and followed the instructions that pertain to making a holster for your particular revolver. And this is what I came up with. It's 8/9oz Hermann Oak hand rubbed with a mixture of 100% neatsfoot oil, Fiebings Oil Mahogany, and Fiebings Oil Saddle Tan. I warmed it up with a heat gun and applied Fiebings Snow-Proof. It's semi-unfinished.. I need to polish up the edges a bit still. But before I do that, I just wanted to see if you all think I have a solid, safe, functional design going on here? If not, what areas are of concern, where do I need to pay more attention, whats going to break first? Anything you can offer up, please do so. I handle criticism well. Also, assuming this one is good to go, can I apply a sealant over the Snow-Proof, or should that in itself be the final finish? I'm still getting a bit of dye rub off. Thanks a bunch! Dan

Makes sense now. Thank you Sir!

Dont know of any books offhand, but I've found the following link to be of great help. Holster Help

Looks really really good. I especially like the groove in the belt loops I'm scratching my head on how it was put together. Slide side wing stitched, then mouth reinforcement stitched on, then trigger guard side?

I'd like the Sig P238 and the Walther PPS if they are still available. Sending an email.

Make sure it isnt water based. I use pliobond contact cement simply because its what the local hardware has.

Looks good. Do the snap straps for the belt tunnel on the backside?

Thanks for the Sunday morning laugh! The wife had to come see what I was laughing so hard about:rofl:

I have a cardboard box with a small electric space heater blowing into it.

I dig the rivets, gives it a utilitarian look. Nice job!

goodfella, were you at the Berea show this past weekend?