Tree Reaper

Bob; Make sure of the thread. The screws I have are 4mm long but 8/32 tpi. Kevin.

That looks pretty good considering your experience and lack of tools to work with. Is that an oil finish? You can get by with sno-seal to keep it weather proof.

James; Search for V Ring Adjuster http://store.jontay.com/heavy_duty_metal_v-rings_1-34_inch_wideblack_wholesale.aspx

This is a problem for me as well, I develop a post nasal drip which causes me to cough, gets bad at night when I'm trying to sleep. I have also developed the itchy rash, stop doing leather work and everything clears up. I've been taking Tylenol with Acetaminophen at night and it clears the sinus problem but they only last about five hours.

Bob, have you thought about using a small self tapping screw ?

That concho in my photo has a 4mm screw and I can bury it into the concho right up to the screw head.

Call them and see if they deal with someone close to you. If that doesn't work out someone here can order it and ship it to you when they put an order in.

Weaver Leather has them.

Hi Bob; Can you punch a larger hole for the stud to go through the leather, eliminate the washer. Kevin

Very nice, good job!

You can wipe it on but it will take the finish off so a few light quick passes letting it dry between passes works . Take one swipe and let it dry, repeat.

I like to use neatsfoot oil 24 hrs. prior to dying on anything I'm bending, when you make your bends dampen the leather at the bend prior to bending. When wet forming, dampen the leather at the guard then make the bend. You should try and secure the leather against the knife just below the guard and above the guard against the handle and allow the leather to dry over night while it's secured to the knife.

Make your sheath, case it and carve it,dye it, sew it then wet the unfinished side and mold it around the guard. Are you looping the back for a belt or using slots cut into the leather?

You can wet form the leather at the guard, 1/4" is negligible.

You don't want to make a new one?

It just looks like a bad design, you can design your own and put a smaller keeper on it. 8-10 oz. leather will work. Here's a few images... https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+knife+sheaths&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=zwg&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=AaY3UbOvA8S42gWhpoCoBw&ved=0CDAQsAQ&biw=792&bih=432

I would send that picture to Ohio and ask them, they're pretty good in the service department.

Nice, very unique.

Thank you, I appreciate the comments. Kevin.

Here's a case for a cigar lighter, it has a belt loop that snaps to the back of the case.

Here are some images of leather braces... https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+leather+braces&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=nHY&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=l-01UaHZF4n52AXakYHoAw&ved=0CDwQsAQ&biw=792&bih=432

I would buy black and sell what you don't use if you don't want to keep the extra.

The problem I see with that is, two pieces independent of each other could twist the shape, and the wedge would have to be straight and not tapered. Too much work over just cutting a solid form on a band saw in my opinion. One expensive method used is an air bladder where the form is pressurized and takes the shape of the bag but it's too costly for home use. One other method that might work is putting a plastic bag inside the leather and filling it with fine beach sand while the leather is still wet.

Make a jig. Take a wide piece of leather and punch your hole through that, get this one straight. Glue two guide rails on the bottom the width of your belt. Mark where you want the holes on your belt, slide the jig to each location and put the punch in the hole and punch through the belt.

Ohio has IP-MMSR for that purpose.