WinterBear

Heh, I was thinking making a jig out of a couple of sections of heavy walled PVC or steel pipe for the curves, and oak or hemlock for the rest. I should be able to build a steam box fairly easily and should be able to steam 1/2" thick to 1" thick planks--red oak or alder, cherry if I can get a hold of it. The hard part would be the cam, I think. Oh well, it'll give me something to do when the weather's nasty this winter.

Maybe I should research how difficult it would be to bend my own then?

I've been itching to try this. I have some old Lions, Kiwanis, and Rotary logos that are all smaller than 1x1. I need a press to do a decent job of it though. I also have a bigger Scout symbol too, about 2 x 3 inches. Just what I can get with C-clamps is gorgeous.

HI Philippe, what big lizards! I'm not sure what I'd do with one, myself, but I'm sure someone will find they are just the thing. Those are some great hides, and I sure hope those who bought from you already will show us pictures of the finished items.

Well, luckily all of the ones I pictured are also available on Amazon (the second link on most), so if you just want to get one or two, you can, and have it shipped quick. Another option might be to get one that is unchromed nickle silver (for a "silver" color) or solid brass (for a "gold" color) that is close to what you want, then grind any surface decoration off. Obviously, this wouldn't work for anything plated or chromed, as you wouldn't be able to put the plate back on without a lot of equipment. You can then shine it back up to a mirror finish after the junk is off, or use a wire brush wheel to put a brushed finish on. A coat of jewelers lacquer would protect the new finish.

Something like these maybe? They are all from the same company. http://www.beltiscool.com/product/10379/Rectangular-Hammered-Plain-Belt-Buckle.html?meta=BIZRATE&metacpg=10379&utm_source=BIZRATE&utm_medium=CPC&utm_content=&utm_campaign=10379 AND http://www.amazon.com/Rectangular-Hammered-Plain-Belt-Buckle/dp/B00498M1WO/ref=sr_1_73?ie=UTF8&m=A294VXYO5OOQG9&s=generic&qid=1313537971&sr=1-73 http://www.amazon.com/Big-Oval-Plain-Belt-Buckle/dp/B0013BO9FM/ref=sr_1_266?ie=UTF8&m=A294VXYO5OOQG9&s=generic&qid=1313538264&sr=1-266 http://www.beltiscool.com/product/ET40904/Rectangular-Plain-Belt-Buckle.html?meta=BIZRATE&metacpg=ET40904&utm_source=BIZRATE&utm_medium=CPC&utm_content=&utm_campaign=ET40904 AND http://www.amazon.com/beltiscool-Rectangular-Plain-Belt-Buckle/dp/B001PBA9AO/ref=sr_1_114?ie=UTF8&m=A294VXYO5OOQG9&s=generic&qid=1313538062&sr=1-114 http://www.beltiscool.com/product/C243/Plain-Oval-Belt-Buckle.html?meta=BIZRATE&metacpg=C243&utm_source=BIZRATE&utm_medium=CPC&utm_content=&utm_campaign=C243 AND http://www.amazon.com/Plain-Oval-Belt-Buckle-Color/dp/B0018MJ71M/ref=sr_1_205?ie=UTF8&m=A294VXYO5OOQG9&s=generic&qid=1313538189&sr=1-205 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IR5JLM/ref=asc_df_B003IR5JLM1667298?smid=A294VXYO5OOQG9&tag=shopzilla_mp_1388-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B003IR5JLM

:jawdropper:Holy snot. Maybe it's the double curve of the sides that makes it so expensive?

Hi Skald. I've been using "stencil blanks". The pattern pieces I make can wipe clean, don't get crumpled, and I can mark what each piece is. It's a thin plastic sheet, similar in flexibility and sturdiness to a CraftAid. It usually is about 12 mil thick, but you can sometimes get it in the 4 to 14 mil range. The 12 mil can be cut with an Xacto or shears, it's cheap, and I can use a woodburning tip to cut out really fine details. It will sometimes have a pebbled side for "grip", but if your leather is damp, the surface tension of the water holds it in place just fine while tracing. I've tried using thicker plastics, but it's harder to cut pieces from and won't always "cling". Acetate film/overhead transparency film is too thin and can be crushed accidentally, plus the edges will wear after more than 20 or 30 tracings. Scrapbook vellum is hit or miss in quality around here and doesn't seem to last long anyway. Hope this helps?

Nice. I especially like how you matched the croc patterns on both sides.

In this age of the internet, "can't" is fluid. But something that might be difficult back east? A muley antler shed might be a possibility (kinda the wrong season, but I could stuff my face into the local shops and see if the tourists left any--I really think we are out of luck on that one until spring though). Tines and brow tines are more probable, maybe an elk rosette if I am lucky. Other possibilities? Huckleberry jam? Jackalope stuff?

I really and truly wish they would reissue those stamps, even as a limited edition. There are a lot of Wood "Badgers" I know who would love to make critter gear.

Well, the local stores don't have a lever cam that is long enough in stock. I've put one on order though, so we'll see. Thanks for the idea King's X.

YES! Please do! If I can manage the cost, I think I'd love to have it, and I'd gladly pay the shipping too. In return for the favor, can I send you a little something from this area that you might have a problem getting in New York? I have a plain pony, but the wingnut is really hard for me to use as I have a bad wrist, and the twisting makes it ache fiercely. That little cam lever may make all the difference in the world. King's, it was a hit. The first thing they ask when they come to a meeting to work on their project is "Can I use the maul for this?"

Agreed, the Hidecrafters are crisper. I'm using the Tandy one as a "fader" as it's large and indistinct. I don't even use a mallet--I just press it to the leather with my fingers and fade the texture out around the edges.

Also take a look at the user leatherrookie's stuff. He does some nice work with Sheridan carving and metallic leathers behind on belts and folios covers. If you just type in "filigree" into the search bar up above, you'll come up with a bunch of threads, some of which are his. I'm tempted to get myself some of the punches like ferg/50years showed...It looks like a better way to make leather Christmas ornaments than what I've been doing!

Saddle stitching is a hand stitch. Sewing machines and speedy stitcher awls make a similar-looking stitch, but it is called a lock stitch. The attachment in this post shows the difference: http://leatherworker...ndpost&p=141273 If you can get it, get Al Stohlman's book, The Art of Hand Sewing. It offers a lot of great tips, illustrations, and instructions for hand sewing leather.

Ok, I found the stamp I bought at Tandy. It is marked Craftool M884, and there were at least 3 or 4 other shapes/styles with the pebble texture.

"Pebblers", a type of backgrounder. Springfield Leather has some, stamps PA003, PA004, and PA005. My local Tandy has started carrying some too, as I bought one there last week--unfortunately, being the dip I am, I didn't put it on my block, and now the "house ate it". I'll see if I can find it tomorrow and give you the number off of it. If you have the number of the one I got from my Tandy, maybe your local Tandy will get them in for you. Rickeyfro, nice job on that seat.

What do you think of it King's X? Should I start looking around myself for one? I have a pony, but I'm thinking a cam type might be easier for me to work with. And your friend's maul is doing me a lot of good, by the way. It also took everything a bunch Boy Scouts dished out too, and the boys who used the maul liked the better control they had over the mallet.

That cam pony is really neat. Are you considering buying it? I wonder if it would be easier to use than the one I currently have? And if it would grip strongly enough? Ah, I do go on. I envy you that store ramrod. Nothing half so nice around here, and it's usually been where the packrats and mice have been at it. Usually unusable or they want to sell it for too much money. The last stitching horse I saw around here wasn't nearly so nice or in such good repair as any of those horses or ponys. It had a price of $210--I think I'll attempt to make one for that price!

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32770&st=0&p=203727&hl=+arbor%20+press&fromsearch=1entry203727 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32112&st=0&p=200032&hl=+arbor +press&fromsearch=1entry200032 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32627&st=0&p=203010&hl=+arbor%20+press&fromsearch=1entry203010 Give these threads an eyeball. Two are on arbor presses kitted out for stamping/embossing and punching, and one is on shop presses. I'm drooling over the arbor presses myself. Small enough for me to move by myself and won't hog the space in the apartment!

My first bag was small quilled pieces and more of the larger body pieces. I did get enough black body to cut out what will be a fantastic looking wallet interior-all thin strong leather with an interesting wrinkle pattern-I think it was from the body under the wing. I got a little black quill, some nice saddle tan quill, and a bit more of a very pale tan quill, but the tan was pretty heavily scarred and very uneven on the back and hard to do anything with. The saddle tan was the best of the batch, with a glossy hide with darker quills, but the pieces of that were palm sized or smaller. However, I did not give any preferences on what I wanted for what I was trying to do, so I was sent a random bag. But I still had a few nice pieces and some odds and ends for Boy Scouts to handle, which is all I really wanted. I had enough for four inlaid buckles, a piece for either an inlaid wallet or maybe three inlaid knife sheaths, and the future black wallet interior from the body pieces, which were all a bonus in my book.

I'd love to have one, but the shipping to get it here would kill me. What a great find.

Round punch wherever the flow of the pattern will accept, then exacto blade cutting from one curve of the punch to halfway to the next punch, then from the other punch back to the midpoint. I have a Exacto hobby set that has a bunch of different blades. I find I use a scalpel blade about as often as I do a pointed blade.