WinterBear

YES! Please do! If I can manage the cost, I think I'd love to have it, and I'd gladly pay the shipping too. In return for the favor, can I send you a little something from this area that you might have a problem getting in New York? I have a plain pony, but the wingnut is really hard for me to use as I have a bad wrist, and the twisting makes it ache fiercely. That little cam lever may make all the difference in the world. King's, it was a hit. The first thing they ask when they come to a meeting to work on their project is "Can I use the maul for this?"

Agreed, the Hidecrafters are crisper. I'm using the Tandy one as a "fader" as it's large and indistinct. I don't even use a mallet--I just press it to the leather with my fingers and fade the texture out around the edges.

Also take a look at the user leatherrookie's stuff. He does some nice work with Sheridan carving and metallic leathers behind on belts and folios covers. If you just type in "filigree" into the search bar up above, you'll come up with a bunch of threads, some of which are his. I'm tempted to get myself some of the punches like ferg/50years showed...It looks like a better way to make leather Christmas ornaments than what I've been doing!

Saddle stitching is a hand stitch. Sewing machines and speedy stitcher awls make a similar-looking stitch, but it is called a lock stitch. The attachment in this post shows the difference: http://leatherworker...ndpost&p=141273 If you can get it, get Al Stohlman's book, The Art of Hand Sewing. It offers a lot of great tips, illustrations, and instructions for hand sewing leather.

Ok, I found the stamp I bought at Tandy. It is marked Craftool M884, and there were at least 3 or 4 other shapes/styles with the pebble texture.

"Pebblers", a type of backgrounder. Springfield Leather has some, stamps PA003, PA004, and PA005. My local Tandy has started carrying some too, as I bought one there last week--unfortunately, being the dip I am, I didn't put it on my block, and now the "house ate it". I'll see if I can find it tomorrow and give you the number off of it. If you have the number of the one I got from my Tandy, maybe your local Tandy will get them in for you. Rickeyfro, nice job on that seat.

What do you think of it King's X? Should I start looking around myself for one? I have a pony, but I'm thinking a cam type might be easier for me to work with. And your friend's maul is doing me a lot of good, by the way. It also took everything a bunch Boy Scouts dished out too, and the boys who used the maul liked the better control they had over the mallet.

That cam pony is really neat. Are you considering buying it? I wonder if it would be easier to use than the one I currently have? And if it would grip strongly enough? Ah, I do go on. I envy you that store ramrod. Nothing half so nice around here, and it's usually been where the packrats and mice have been at it. Usually unusable or they want to sell it for too much money. The last stitching horse I saw around here wasn't nearly so nice or in such good repair as any of those horses or ponys. It had a price of $210--I think I'll attempt to make one for that price!

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32770&st=0&p=203727&hl=+arbor%20+press&fromsearch=1entry203727 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32112&st=0&p=200032&hl=+arbor +press&fromsearch=1entry200032 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32627&st=0&p=203010&hl=+arbor%20+press&fromsearch=1entry203010 Give these threads an eyeball. Two are on arbor presses kitted out for stamping/embossing and punching, and one is on shop presses. I'm drooling over the arbor presses myself. Small enough for me to move by myself and won't hog the space in the apartment!

My first bag was small quilled pieces and more of the larger body pieces. I did get enough black body to cut out what will be a fantastic looking wallet interior-all thin strong leather with an interesting wrinkle pattern-I think it was from the body under the wing. I got a little black quill, some nice saddle tan quill, and a bit more of a very pale tan quill, but the tan was pretty heavily scarred and very uneven on the back and hard to do anything with. The saddle tan was the best of the batch, with a glossy hide with darker quills, but the pieces of that were palm sized or smaller. However, I did not give any preferences on what I wanted for what I was trying to do, so I was sent a random bag. But I still had a few nice pieces and some odds and ends for Boy Scouts to handle, which is all I really wanted. I had enough for four inlaid buckles, a piece for either an inlaid wallet or maybe three inlaid knife sheaths, and the future black wallet interior from the body pieces, which were all a bonus in my book.

I'd love to have one, but the shipping to get it here would kill me. What a great find.

Round punch wherever the flow of the pattern will accept, then exacto blade cutting from one curve of the punch to halfway to the next punch, then from the other punch back to the midpoint. I have a Exacto hobby set that has a bunch of different blades. I find I use a scalpel blade about as often as I do a pointed blade.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. I just commented on you gallery, nice ideas on those.

I've seen a small dog print stamp on Etsy (look under metal jewelry stamps). Very tiny--about the size of the end of a pencil. If you want a bigger/2-D print, Wishful's idea of grinding off the claws would work. The left one is one that has been ground down, the right one is the current wolf print stamp from Tandy (8286). vs

You're welcome. Glad I was able to help. WHoops, I forgot to post the flame stamps. Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-BARON-LEATHER-TOOL-152-BIKER-FLAME-NEW-/400233232594?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2fc278d2 for a small stamp and http://cgi.ebay.com/Matched-Pair-Flame-Emboss-Plates-1-3-4-Wide-/320737927798?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aad786276 for larger ones that will need a press.

Good luck. I hope you can find what you need.

I think the user Studio N has one as a Delrin clicker/hammer stamp--It's a soft serve cone though. It's not on his main website (http://www.lasered-s...sc?categoryId=2), but he does have one on ebay at the moment (http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item336909773b). If you want an itty bitty thing, there is a jewelry stamp that I have seen used on leather. It can be found at the following websites: My linkhttps://www.romazone.com/supplies/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59&products_id=199 http://www.etsy.com/listing/27048555/ice-cream-cone-design-stamp-for-jewelry

Well, if nobody here has a pattern, maybe try contacting the National USMC Museum?: http://www.virtualusmcmuseum.com/ They also have a page of links to other USMC museums and historical associations: http://www.usmcmuseum.com/marine_links.asp

I don't see why that wouldn't make a great maker's mark Nooj.

Did it somehow get hot? The folks that make armor post that they boil or heat leather to make it hard, but they also say it will get darker and may be brittle if it is heated too long.

That's going to be a great workbench. By the way, I showed a coworker your mini-solo bag, and he thought it was fantastic. He's wondering if you'd consider producing more and how much it would set him back?

OK, an evaluation of the oil pencils method on rawhide. Caveats: 1) All I had was a bend of cow rawhide, which is probably not going to be used to make drum with anyway, It's just too thick. 2) I just don't have the hand strength to stretch it transparency and smoothness. So all in all, it's thick, rough, and about as rough as 120-180 grit sandpaper. Not exactly conducive to drawing smooth lines. 3) I also did not have my good ink pen, so I used a brush marker that was much to thick for the size of the example--the figure is only about 2 1/2 inches tall. Pros: 1) Greasy spots? No problem. It accepted the pigments quite nicely, and the Testors smoothed the surface and blended the colors. 2) The Testors thinned the pigment to the point where it was absorbed into the hide. 3) The Testors evaporated away, leaving the pigment on the leather and dry. Cons: 1) If you have a thick layor of pigment, it can rub into adjacent areas or bleed a bit with the Testors. See the hind legs and the far wing. 2) The rougher the hide, the coarser the details have to be. 3) The oils will need to be sealed in some way to prevent the oils from rubbing onto uncolored portions or to the beater (if used). A spray fixative meant for oil pencils would probably work. It tends to be non-crazing, flexible, and non-yellowing. So all in all, it might be worth exploring, but I don't think it will be what you want to do. You need to find someone who has used alcohol-based inks, I think. The water-based might not work on greasy spots well?