WinterBear

Which three tools do you have RParson? Are the lines cut? I can't tell from your picture.

Try these guys if you can't find one to borrow. Pro Leather Crafters currently has one of those in their ebay store: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-45-Yr-Old-Craftool-Co-460-Horseshoe-Stamp-Leather-Stamping-Tool-/390633650254?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af394784e Used Leather Tools also has one: http://usedleathertools.com/Z460-HORSESHOE-SPECIAL-CRAFTOOL-USA-vintage-used-leather-tools-stamps--P2585727.aspx, and one sold with the cowboy on a bronc as a set: http://usedleathertools.com/Vtg-Craftool-CO-USA-Leather-stamping-toolS-Z460-Z952-COWBOY-SET-P2634061.aspx http://www.stecksstore.com/servlet/the-1767/Craftool-Horseshoe-Stamp-6460/Detail http://zelikovitz.com/courses.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=977

Toast? The last few times I got tools, the wallet was under the bed and crying miserably. But I'm having too much fun learning this stuff. : )

What show, when?! More details please.

Think of it as sort of a hat box for rope. You see them most often at a rodeo or for those who are working with stock (working cows for branding, etc). But I most often see them at rodeos for those that "tie down" animals. So someone who competes in goat or calf tying would keep the piggin strings in there, and calf tiers and team ropers will often have a larger can to keep lariats in. Why? Good ropes are expensive, and can be damaged if stepped on or allowed to be damp, so a rope can keeps them safe from having dirt ground into them by a careless boot (dirt is sharp and breaks the individual fibers, which weakens the rope), keeps them dry, and neatly organized. Beautiful work Double U. One of these days I'm going to see one of your rope cans, bronc halters, or belts in person, since I'm not all that far away.

Leather paperweights/pattern weights. http://www.southtexassaddlery.com/Leather-Paperweight_p_66.html Tom thumb coin purses (usually made with an oval, but rounds will make a slightly shallower purse). http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6469&hl=%2Bceltic+%2Bcoin+%2Bpurse Top and/or bottom for jewelry box or closed dice cup: http://rodneykindlund.com/fine-art-craft/leather-art/olympus-digital-camera-24/#main Also: Bottoms for dice/pencil cups, leather tankards. Faces of small clocks. Jacket patches (see https://www.facebook.com/LowerClassLeather for some examples) "Rope can" or "canteen" coin purses/little girl's purse/small belt pouch.

Clever! Love the skeletal fish on this, and the texturing. What finish did you use on the inside of this? Something to slick and seal to keep a damp hook from discoloring the lather? I could have used a couple of those when I was helping some kids fish this summer. One came over to watch me put split weights on another's line, and hadn't secured his lure. I didn't see him until he snagged my ear. We had a impromptu refresher lesson on hook safety as soon as I worked the barb free. Before I go fishing again, I think I'll have a couple of those made up and handy.

Same here. Those are just too cool.

So he got a mule saddle and you got the shaft?

Billy, have you tried Bruce Johnson? I just took a look, and he has a seat wheel and a fudge wheel: http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/shoe-and-boot-making-tools-for-sale/ I've a few tools from Bruce now, and they are all nice ones.

Well, I can get some nice leathers there still for a comparable price (just not the veg tan so much), and it's nice to pick out leathers in person--for this, Tandy is my only option, there is nothing else that will deal with a small hobbyist within a 4 hour radius unless I wait until the sellers come in during CFD, at which point I'd pay premium prices for anything from a vendor there. And Tandy, even if the quality has gone down hill from past years, is still a good place to get kids interested in leathercrafting. The simple knife pouch, bracelet or belt made at summer camp or during a workshop is often a kid's prized possession or memento. It may be a Walmart of leather, but sometimes it's what gets people started.

My best and only letterpress font for lettering is actually two complete sets and one partial set of Kingsley type in the same font. All of my other type are flourishes, dingbats, and corners. The rest are figurative cuts (some reproductions, some real ones), and mostly are under 2" square. Scouts, Lions, Rotary, Kiwanis, Marines, animals, hunting, fantasy beasts. I get by with using wood clamps on these, but eventually I'll get a couple of steel plates and an arbor press or a manual clicker to do a better and quicker jobs of things. Most of the language of printers is completely beyond me though.

Great minds think alike? Would confirm the Herman Oak too. I only use Tandy stuff for the Scouts and kids to beat on, and for me to practice on, but that is only because I can go there and pick through the pile, but generally what I get is middling at best. Got my hands on some HO, and really had some fun with it--cuts nice, burnishes beautifully, nice flesh sides, better grain sides than what Tandy has, and had less waste. Tandy is a good place for scraps to practice dye techniques on, and for me to pick through the bins for hair on scrap and metallic scrap, and some of the materials I use for Scout projects, but I tend to use Springfield for leather and leather supplies, and Centralia, Chichester, Crazy Crow, and a couple of ebay sellers I've bought from before for everything else.

The rear is called the back, which is the center of the hide, usually minus the belly. Some companies will also sell a cut they call a butt. If you scroll down to the bottom here, you'll see a nice diagram that will help you decide. The thickest, firmest leather is usually found on the back and shoulder, and it is typically thickest at the butt. The best belts are those cut front to back, parallel to the spine. Poorer quality goes side-to-side, and is therefore uneven in thickness and firmness. The closer you get to the belly, the mushier and stretchier the leather. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx

I think dirtclod has the right idea. I can't see how it can be done without you taking a loss on it, to be perfectly honest. If they want to resell for $20, I'm thinking that they want to buy them for something like $10 each, right? And say each one costs a minimum of $2 in supplies to make. So you're only going to get $8 of that $10 to pay your wage, the wear and tear on your tools and equipments, and your overhead (cost of the building, electricity, water, insurance, etc). If I've puzzled this out correctly, you'd have to complete 2.75 to 3 per hour to come out even with a "wage" of $20/hour, not including anything left over for the overhead or wear and tear on the tools. If these paperweights are an odd shape, embossed, dyed, burnished and finished, I don't know....do you think you could make 3 in an hour for 3 solid 8-hour days to complete the first order of $75? Maybe, possibly, if the shape was simple--a square, oval, or round--and if you have a machine to do the sewing, but even then....might not be possible to meet those goals and come out ahead. As for the sand, that's actually pretty easy. Glue or sew the seam except for about an inch, feed the spout of a funnel into the gap, pour your sand in, a little glue to hold the gap shut, and finish sewing.

Tandy discontinued them, unfortunately. Try Springfield for turquoise, purple, multi, beige, and rust: http://springfieldleather.com Thread Exchange has waxed cords in a variety of colors and thicknesses as well. http://www.thethreadexchange.com

Letterpress type is usually measured in points or picas, and there are roughly 72 points or 6 picas to the inch, and common larger sized fonts were 36, 42, 48, 60, and 72 points. You might find this link to be of use for the parts and descriptions for type: http://momentumpress.com/sccc/Letterpress/resources/IntroToLetterpress.pdf I have bought type and cuts from ebay and from etsy. A single cut is easily imprinted using a clamp and a few pieces of board, or an arbor press (But don't ever hit them with a hammer! You will have very short-lived stamps if you do that. Lead type will deform, and non-lead type is brittle). Lettering requires a jig of some sort to keep the individual letters straight and impressing to the same depth. For tiny type, even wrapping the type with a strip of masking tape is often enough to hold them straight, and placing the piece and the type between boards before pressing or clamping keeps the imprint even, depthwise.

Ok, maybe the German Consulate offices are where you need to start? Something on one of these pages may send you in the right direction anyway. The item doesn't have any reptile, does it? Germany typically forbids entry of leather made from any crocodillian (caiman, gator, croc), snake, or lizard species, regardless if the species is protected or even farmed in its country of origin. http://germany.visahq.com/customs/ and http://germany.visahq.co.uk/embassy/United-Kingdom/ http://www.hqusareur.army.mil/opm/Importing%20animals.htm http://www.germany.info/

Hi, check out this thread and see if that is what you had in mind? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20177

I'm thinking they are needing something similar to the USFWS CITES forms. Anyway, the USFWS Offices may be able to help find a similar form for exports to satisfy your customer's customs. Midwest Regional Office: BHW Federal Building 1 Federal Drive Ft. Snelling, MN 55111 Phone: 612-713-5301 FAX 612-713-5284 http://www.fws.gov/midwest The Ecological Services division administrates the Endangered Species Act, and may be able to provide something for species that do not fall under their purview: Ecological Services 1 Federal Drive Ft. Snelling, MN 55111 Phone: 612-713-5345 FAX 612-713-5292 http://www.fws.gov/midwest/Eco_Serv/

You are doing some really nice work on those baseballs. Can't wait to see the next one.

um...I could be wrong, but isn't Red Skull a villain rather than a superhero? edit: wow! looks amazing.

hope you got it. if not, drop me a line and i have a few people i can bug on your behalf to see if they may be willing to sell.

yeah have a little issue is all. broke the camera and getting the replacement has been a fiasco. i will have pictures, i just dont have them now. and can i just say that making own cord is a bit of a pain. the necklace is also in another state at the moment so i will need to retrieve it before i have pictures anyway. sorry for punctuation and capitalization, i am using a mobile device.

The old craftool 3-D Stamp? There is one on ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Leather-Craftool-3-D-Stamp-8307-/161051649473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257f6d25c1