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WinterBear

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Everything posted by WinterBear

  1. You might try looking into Jett Sett Fixturing Compound. It is sold by most jeweler's supply companies. It's a ceramic/thermoplasic that softens in hot water and can be reused as needed. It can not only increase the diameter of the tool, you can also grip the tool when the Jett Sett is no longer hot, but is still moldable, to shape the tool to fit your grip exactly for comfortable, ergonomic grip (see picture at this link: http://www.contenti.com/products/stone-setting/510-620.html). I use it on my fine files when I'm working on metal--those darn little shafts are hard to hold on to. You may also have some use out of a little device known as a "Thumb safe" made by Eurotool. It's mostly made for use with jeweler's stamps, but should work on leather stamps just as easily. A couple of people I know use it because it is easier for them to hold the Eurotool with their grip parallel to the work, rather than holding the stamp itself perpendicular to the work. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1B60FF9751&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Jewelry+%26+Beading-_-9SIA1B60FF9751
  2. Somebody tell Mother Nature I said "Uncle!" already.

    1. tkirwan

      tkirwan

      but..yer WINTERbear...you should be loving this....

    2. DoubleC

      DoubleC

      I said uncle and aunt and not nearly what you're are putting up

    3. WinterBear

      WinterBear

      'cause most bears are still hibernating and so don't have to bother with the snow, silly. We're supposed to get another foot overnight, and maybe more tomorrow.

  3. Before anything else, I'd take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get it sharpened with the correct bevel. I have not heard of anyone with that splitter being happy with the sharpness and/or bevel of that out of the box.
  4. Oh geeze. What do you need and can I help? Maybe I've got something I can send you. I can't send dye cross-border, but maybe I've got something else you can use?
  5. Fantastic, I absolutely loved the way the Knight was leading the pack.
  6. oooo, thank you thank you. Hah, now I'm gonna pester you a bit. All I can say is that you are one ambitious lady. I'm definitely a little intimidated by all the over/unders. It sure makes me want to try a celtic hippocampus pattern I have (consisting of a single "horse", and not nearly as complicated) and make some sort of bag with it though. So how big is the piece--looks like it is bigger than a purse or journal panel? I hope it isn't smaller than that, or I won't be able to understand how you stayed sane beveling it all. What is the piece (wallhanging/framed picture sort of thing maybe)? It looks like you antiqued--did you use a leather antiquing gel, or seal and use thinned acrylic washes to get your antique color in the low spots?
  7. If the cans were rusty, and the product turned undyed leather gray/greenish black, then it is the iron oxide from the rust causing a chemical reaction with the leather to give you that color. A sort of vinegaroon, if you will.
  8. This. This is a good idea. Also look at brooches, bracelets, purse decorations, fashion rings and pendants, and hair ornaments. A lot of them can be salvaged and attached to a buckle blank with a little careful use of something like JB Weld, or you can just add Chicago screw hardware.
  9. Swarovski buckles vary in price depending on the size of the buckle, the number of crystals used, colors, pattern (single row or accent vs. pave' set or total encrustation), the metal of the buckle, and other factors. But a variety of very nice buckles can be obtained in my area in a number of styles and patterns for $40 to $80. You'll see prices in the $100 to $400 and up range as well, but those are generally ones being sold through boutiques or as designer items rather than those sold by suppliers. I'm not sure about the optics--they may be from the same parent company, but different branches? Couldn't say for certain... I do like the Swarovski "rhinestones" because of the quality--if it is a genuine Swarovski rhinestone, it is going to have a lot of fire and a good cut. This makes the prices higher than for just a "crystal" buckle, but those are hit and miss as far as quality. I've seen some off-brands and imports that just looked awful--no life to the crystal because the crystals were cloudy, poorly cut, and indifferently set. And I've seen some non-Swarovski buckles that had good crystals and a good set as well. It just depends, I guess. By the way, you can also get spots to set into the belt leather as well. http://www.standardrivet.com/swarovski-elements/mounted/133-mounted-brilliant-swarovski-crystals.php for instance...
  10. Are you looking for a particular shape? Something called a "diamonte buckle" in my neck of the woods is just a gemmed ring with a bar across the middle, and meant for holding a scarf around the neck or waist--is that what you want? If you're wanting a buckle pave set or studded with crystals, especially something that looks like what I'd call a trophy-style or rodeo-style buckle, try looking for Swarovski Crystal belt buckles, and see if anything like what your wife wants pops up.
  11. Gee, all I ever find in old barns is dead packrats and rusty broken tractor parts. What an incredible find.
  12. I also recommend Bruce Johnson's tools. I've bought some beautiful tools from him. All I've bought have come to me scrupulously clean and the blade/cutting edges are sharp.
  13. WinterBear

    Tomaga

    No worries. My professor was a falconer, so I recognized what they were.
  14. WinterBear

    Tomaga

    They are hoods for raptors, for falconry. The welts on the sides shape areas where the bird's eyes are, so the leather does not contact the bird's lids or lashes. The topknot at the top is used to remove the hood when the bird is ready to hunt, and to replace it when the bird needs to be transported or handled. The opening at the front goes around the raptor's beak, but still allows the bird to open its beak and pant if need be. These are some beautiful falconry hoods.
  15. I think that sums it up better.
  16. (Maybe this is it Bruce: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350659300546?nma=true&si=SDiZVJN483Aym1NGRQrddTr4Fu0%3D&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2557&orig_cvip=true)
  17. Yes, those are similar. Those are Line 16 snaps, so they'll be small. Generally, Line 24 are heavy duty snaps, and are most often used with 8-10 oz leather. Line 20 are a medium duty, and are typically used on 5-7 oz leather. Line 16/Segmas are typically used for garments, and are light duty. You'll also need to purchase a setting tool (and the anvil!) if you don't have one already. And etsy is a great place to find snaps in different colors or smaller amounts.
  18. Try looking at Line 20 or Line 24 snaps. They may be what you are looking for?
  19. Hi John, Looks like it's just a brass folding hoof pick. They are fairly inexpensive, and can be bought at many horse tack supply stores. Like so: http://www.theoriginalhorsetackcompany.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=IN82339&gclid=CPr_3-2ck7UCFSNqMgodwGkAbg You should also be able to find them in other metals--I think I've seen solid zinc, steel, and nickel plated brass?
  20. Well, the holster forum is a good place to start since that seems to be your specialty. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=29 You might also check out the threads/topics tagged holster or holsters. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&search_tags=holsters&search_app=forums http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&search_tags=holster&search_app=forums Check out the chat at the top of the page too. The conversation often drifts to holsters. (If you're having trouble launching the chat room from IE, try lauching it from firefox). Most of the subforums have pinned topics at the top of each subforum. They often tell you what each subforum is for, what's allowed and what's dicouraged, and valuable tips for each subforum category. I especially suggest browsing the How Do I Do That? subforum if you haven't yet for a bunch of good ideas and tips. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=36
  21. I think just about any leather supply with hardware will have them if you don't want to use Tandy. Make sure that you specify 2-part grommets, or you might get a bag sans washers (essentially big eyelets). I'd avoid the fabric ones personally, unless you get the ones meant for duck canvas or heavy denim. Grommets made for lighter fabrics aren't always solid brass and may be a metal that can corrode when in contact with leathers. I also find them to be weaker, and they don't hold up well at all, especially their finish, so unless they are sturdy enough for duck canvas, pass them by. If it is a grommet for any kind of paper or scrapbooking, they won't hold up to a lot of use and are too light or a material. Ones meant for scrapbooks will deform easily when under day-to-day use, such as the drawstring of a leather bag. Hardware stores may carry them, but they are more likely to be carrying those for tarps, and are usually in sizes that are too large. Usually they'll have some less than 1" in diameter, but the smaller ones are usually still too large for drawstrings and braided leather cords. You may also want to try marina supply for grommets meant for boat canvas, like sailrite.com or if there is something local.
  22. All those views and nobody said hi yet? Hi neighbor. I'm just on the other side of the summit from you.
  23. It may be an old thread, but you've grabbed my attention. How does one hide tracking information in one's pictures, and how does one trace those marked images? And what does one do when one finds that someone has stolen images?
  24. You might try grommets instead. Unlike eyelets, they sandwich the leather between two flat disks, and it's harder for them to pull free. When I am using the grommets in thin leather, I punch a hole just a touch too small for the neck of the grommet, then apply a small amount of contact cement to the inside flange of the grommet, just below the neck. I wait until it gets tacky, then force the neck through the hole with my hands and make sure the leather is firmly rubbed down onto the glued flange. I then put a little cement on the inner flange of the second part of the grommet and wait for it to get tacky, then place it glued side down, press it firmly with my fingers until I am sure the glue grabs the leather. Then I set the grommet. This gives me a strong, secure finished hole, where the hardware is both attached with glue and secured mechanically with two wide disks on either side of the hole rather than just on one side of the hole. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/1283-048.aspx
  25. Just FYI, you can get a pre-cut strap 50" in length and in varying widths from 1/2 to 3" from Springfield Leather. 1-1/4" runs $9. http://springfieldleather.com/18891/Boot%2CFrontlaceHrdslKneeHi%2CSz-6/ If you plan on any stitching, the Thread Exchange sells Kevlar and Nomex in various weights in small amounts. http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=TTE
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