WinterBear

Ok, maybe try one of these? 1x1" unmounted felt cylinders: http://thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Unmounted_Felts.html Bobs and wheels: http://www.hollisonsupply.co.uk/felt-wheels-hard.html and http://www.hollisonsupply.co.uk/felt-wheels-soft-1.html Wheels: http://www.equipmidlands.co.uk/products/polishing-materials-felt-wheels-bobs.html A half-meter roll and a gasket punch would make for plenty of your own wheels: http://www.britishfelt.co.uk/acatalog/3mm_Grey_firm_Industrial_Felt.html and http://www.britishfelt.co.uk/acatalog/Grey_Firm_Industrial_Felt.html

Try some of these? http://www.sutherlandfelt.com/ http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt/=mustff http://www.thefeltstore.com/ http://www.feltbobs.com/catalog/index.php/ (not sure if these are wool felt or not, but they do have unmounted felt cylinders for fairly cheap) A couple of people I know buy wool fabric, strips, and wheels from this ebay seller: http://www.ebay.com/sch/durof1/m.html?item=370656446851&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Hey, don't be knocking my boys, shtoink. lol. They do better than that if they wanna get me to sign off on their merit badge cards. They all burnish their edges.

I'm really surprised that the patent was granted, to be honest. I don't see how it is a appreciably new design idea worthy or a patent? Especially since there were people who used shot shotgun shells on there belts long before there were the commercially made conchos. Saw a lot of them in the 80s and 90s--belts, mostly, but the odd gun sling or whatnot. The "conchos" usually had rivets or screws soldered onto the base of real, fired shells to make the elements. Anyway, there are a lot of people out there who were using shell ends or shotgun shell conchos on dog collars before the date on the patent. I did a quick rummage around the web and found you some links. Shotgun shell collars 2011 (predating patent) http://doberman-chat.com/community/index.php?threads/just-a-couple-new-collar-pics.8996/ 2010 http://www.etsy.com/listing/33696422/custom-dog-collar-shotgun-shells-large 2009 http://doberman-chat.com/community/index.php?threads/sorry-gotta-brag-true-collars.3721/ http://www.etsy.com/listing/32134392/shotgun-shell-studded-dog-collar-for 2007 http://www.supercoolpets.com/archives/2007/12/shotshell_dog_collar_and_lead.php Other shot-gun like elements on straps --2009 http://www.etsy.com/transaction/16251896 http://www.etsy.com/transaction/22383967

Don't be discouraged yet. Not everyone that came to look at the thread is going to be able to offer you help (maybe they sell wallets or guitar straps, and have no idea about holsters). Or they may be a hobbyist like me, and not be able to offer you advice. Also, the holster makers that you may want to talk to may only pop in once every week or two--seems to be a busy time of year for them.

It is good stuff according to the jewelers I know. I'll be ordering myself a pound next month--I want to try it on the shaft of some skinny stamps I have that are hard for me to hold. And best of all, it's not permanent, so I can peel it off if I want to sell the tool.

You might try looking into Jett Sett Fixturing Compound. It is sold by most jeweler's supply companies. It's a ceramic/thermoplasic that softens in hot water and can be reused as needed. It can not only increase the diameter of the tool, you can also grip the tool when the Jett Sett is no longer hot, but is still moldable, to shape the tool to fit your grip exactly for comfortable, ergonomic grip (see picture at this link: http://www.contenti.com/products/stone-setting/510-620.html). I use it on my fine files when I'm working on metal--those darn little shafts are hard to hold on to. You may also have some use out of a little device known as a "Thumb safe" made by Eurotool. It's mostly made for use with jeweler's stamps, but should work on leather stamps just as easily. A couple of people I know use it because it is easier for them to hold the Eurotool with their grip parallel to the work, rather than holding the stamp itself perpendicular to the work. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1B60FF9751&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Jewelry+%26+Beading-_-9SIA1B60FF9751

Before anything else, I'd take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get it sharpened with the correct bevel. I have not heard of anyone with that splitter being happy with the sharpness and/or bevel of that out of the box.

Oh geeze. What do you need and can I help? Maybe I've got something I can send you. I can't send dye cross-border, but maybe I've got something else you can use?

Fantastic, I absolutely loved the way the Knight was leading the pack.

oooo, thank you thank you. Hah, now I'm gonna pester you a bit. All I can say is that you are one ambitious lady. I'm definitely a little intimidated by all the over/unders. It sure makes me want to try a celtic hippocampus pattern I have (consisting of a single "horse", and not nearly as complicated) and make some sort of bag with it though. So how big is the piece--looks like it is bigger than a purse or journal panel? I hope it isn't smaller than that, or I won't be able to understand how you stayed sane beveling it all. What is the piece (wallhanging/framed picture sort of thing maybe)? It looks like you antiqued--did you use a leather antiquing gel, or seal and use thinned acrylic washes to get your antique color in the low spots?

If the cans were rusty, and the product turned undyed leather gray/greenish black, then it is the iron oxide from the rust causing a chemical reaction with the leather to give you that color. A sort of vinegaroon, if you will.

This. This is a good idea. Also look at brooches, bracelets, purse decorations, fashion rings and pendants, and hair ornaments. A lot of them can be salvaged and attached to a buckle blank with a little careful use of something like JB Weld, or you can just add Chicago screw hardware.

Swarovski buckles vary in price depending on the size of the buckle, the number of crystals used, colors, pattern (single row or accent vs. pave' set or total encrustation), the metal of the buckle, and other factors. But a variety of very nice buckles can be obtained in my area in a number of styles and patterns for $40 to $80. You'll see prices in the $100 to $400 and up range as well, but those are generally ones being sold through boutiques or as designer items rather than those sold by suppliers. I'm not sure about the optics--they may be from the same parent company, but different branches? Couldn't say for certain... I do like the Swarovski "rhinestones" because of the quality--if it is a genuine Swarovski rhinestone, it is going to have a lot of fire and a good cut. This makes the prices higher than for just a "crystal" buckle, but those are hit and miss as far as quality. I've seen some off-brands and imports that just looked awful--no life to the crystal because the crystals were cloudy, poorly cut, and indifferently set. And I've seen some non-Swarovski buckles that had good crystals and a good set as well. It just depends, I guess. By the way, you can also get spots to set into the belt leather as well. http://www.standardrivet.com/swarovski-elements/mounted/133-mounted-brilliant-swarovski-crystals.php for instance...

Are you looking for a particular shape? Something called a "diamonte buckle" in my neck of the woods is just a gemmed ring with a bar across the middle, and meant for holding a scarf around the neck or waist--is that what you want? If you're wanting a buckle pave set or studded with crystals, especially something that looks like what I'd call a trophy-style or rodeo-style buckle, try looking for Swarovski Crystal belt buckles, and see if anything like what your wife wants pops up.

Gee, all I ever find in old barns is dead packrats and rusty broken tractor parts. What an incredible find.

I also recommend Bruce Johnson's tools. I've bought some beautiful tools from him. All I've bought have come to me scrupulously clean and the blade/cutting edges are sharp.

No worries. My professor was a falconer, so I recognized what they were.

They are hoods for raptors, for falconry. The welts on the sides shape areas where the bird's eyes are, so the leather does not contact the bird's lids or lashes. The topknot at the top is used to remove the hood when the bird is ready to hunt, and to replace it when the bird needs to be transported or handled. The opening at the front goes around the raptor's beak, but still allows the bird to open its beak and pant if need be. These are some beautiful falconry hoods.

I think that sums it up better.

(Maybe this is it Bruce: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350659300546?nma=true&si=SDiZVJN483Aym1NGRQrddTr4Fu0%3D&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2557&orig_cvip=true)

Yes, those are similar. Those are Line 16 snaps, so they'll be small. Generally, Line 24 are heavy duty snaps, and are most often used with 8-10 oz leather. Line 20 are a medium duty, and are typically used on 5-7 oz leather. Line 16/Segmas are typically used for garments, and are light duty. You'll also need to purchase a setting tool (and the anvil!) if you don't have one already. And etsy is a great place to find snaps in different colors or smaller amounts.