WinterBear

Try looking at Line 20 or Line 24 snaps. They may be what you are looking for?

Hi John, Looks like it's just a brass folding hoof pick. They are fairly inexpensive, and can be bought at many horse tack supply stores. Like so: http://www.theoriginalhorsetackcompany.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=IN82339&gclid=CPr_3-2ck7UCFSNqMgodwGkAbg You should also be able to find them in other metals--I think I've seen solid zinc, steel, and nickel plated brass?

Well, the holster forum is a good place to start since that seems to be your specialty. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=29 You might also check out the threads/topics tagged holster or holsters. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&search_tags=holsters&search_app=forums http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&search_tags=holster&search_app=forums Check out the chat at the top of the page too. The conversation often drifts to holsters. (If you're having trouble launching the chat room from IE, try lauching it from firefox). Most of the subforums have pinned topics at the top of each subforum. They often tell you what each subforum is for, what's allowed and what's dicouraged, and valuable tips for each subforum category. I especially suggest browsing the How Do I Do That? subforum if you haven't yet for a bunch of good ideas and tips. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=36

I think just about any leather supply with hardware will have them if you don't want to use Tandy. Make sure that you specify 2-part grommets, or you might get a bag sans washers (essentially big eyelets). I'd avoid the fabric ones personally, unless you get the ones meant for duck canvas or heavy denim. Grommets made for lighter fabrics aren't always solid brass and may be a metal that can corrode when in contact with leathers. I also find them to be weaker, and they don't hold up well at all, especially their finish, so unless they are sturdy enough for duck canvas, pass them by. If it is a grommet for any kind of paper or scrapbooking, they won't hold up to a lot of use and are too light or a material. Ones meant for scrapbooks will deform easily when under day-to-day use, such as the drawstring of a leather bag. Hardware stores may carry them, but they are more likely to be carrying those for tarps, and are usually in sizes that are too large. Usually they'll have some less than 1" in diameter, but the smaller ones are usually still too large for drawstrings and braided leather cords. You may also want to try marina supply for grommets meant for boat canvas, like sailrite.com or if there is something local.

All those views and nobody said hi yet? Hi neighbor. I'm just on the other side of the summit from you.

It may be an old thread, but you've grabbed my attention. How does one hide tracking information in one's pictures, and how does one trace those marked images? And what does one do when one finds that someone has stolen images?

You might try grommets instead. Unlike eyelets, they sandwich the leather between two flat disks, and it's harder for them to pull free. When I am using the grommets in thin leather, I punch a hole just a touch too small for the neck of the grommet, then apply a small amount of contact cement to the inside flange of the grommet, just below the neck. I wait until it gets tacky, then force the neck through the hole with my hands and make sure the leather is firmly rubbed down onto the glued flange. I then put a little cement on the inner flange of the second part of the grommet and wait for it to get tacky, then place it glued side down, press it firmly with my fingers until I am sure the glue grabs the leather. Then I set the grommet. This gives me a strong, secure finished hole, where the hardware is both attached with glue and secured mechanically with two wide disks on either side of the hole rather than just on one side of the hole. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/1283-048.aspx

Just FYI, you can get a pre-cut strap 50" in length and in varying widths from 1/2 to 3" from Springfield Leather. 1-1/4" runs $9. http://springfieldleather.com/18891/Boot%2CFrontlaceHrdslKneeHi%2CSz-6/ If you plan on any stitching, the Thread Exchange sells Kevlar and Nomex in various weights in small amounts. http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=TTE

I use a couple of clamps and some lino blocks I had laying around to imprint letterpress blocks. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=18247 The pics in my gallery are mostly of the small letterpress cuts, but I've used the same method on letterpress blocks up to 2 inches by 4 inches with good results. But I like Dwight's press better, as it will allow for a more even pressure and would not obscure what you are trying to stamp. (Dwight, I'm gonna steal your idea for Box Scouts/Cub Scouts, if you don't mind. The younger ones don't have enough upper arm strength to give firm blows with a maul for the 3-D stamps they love so much).

You're welcome. You might also see if anyone does tufa, sand, or lost-wax casting, and have some cast and fabricated. That may not be option for you at this time, as something like that would need lead time for the jeweler to make the molds and make the buckle set, but it might be something to keep in mind.

Thanks Johanna. I think it is fixed, I was able to get in.

Nope, I'm getting the "chat room is full" error message too. Maybe it's full of bots or the internet gremlin tripped over a cord somewhere.

I quite like the last one too. I think the stitched design gives it just the right touch. The fringes and beads are nice too, but fringe tends to attract low flying cats and toddlers from the neighbors around here.

Well, I'm probably late to the party. But here's what I've found in 3/4 inch buckle sets. http://www.vogtsilversmiths.com/belt-buckles/3-4-belts-tabs.html http://www.seidelsaddlery.com/BucklesMain/Buckles_Schaezlein.html http://www.jbhilltexas.com/belts_buckles/buckle_4.html http://www.shoprewards.com/buckle-sets-material-sterling.html http://cowboyartisans.com/rickswebpage/Ranger%20Set%20Buckles.html http://www.uplandranger.com/bucklesets.html http://www.osteenjewelry.com/westernbeltbuckles.html http://cimarronrivercompany.com/ranger-belt-buckle-in-turquoise-and-sterling-silver.html

Oh geez. Color me embarrassed. I just realized that I never did ask the questions I had for gottaknow. Blame it on "Wednesday brain". Anyway, you say "we". How many people are "we"? And once you get the prototype/pattern worked out, how many hours per do you expect it will take to make each one?

You might try the Thread Exchange. I know they sell 207 Kevlar in as small as 1oz spools. They also sell Nomex and spun Kevlar and Nomex thread. http://www.thethreadexchange.com

It's a python print, but yes, they make it. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/9150-04.aspx A pretty good snake pattern can be made with a pointed mulesfoot. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32785 I've also managed more realism with what my coworkers dubbed a "dragonscale" by using a camo stamp shaped to fit at the "base" of the scales and that extends a little less than half the length of the scale.

A couple of users have said they liked Angelus dyes, and got pure deep colors from them. Angelus makes both a paint and a dye, but I think you'd want the dye for a dog collar as it has better penetration. http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html They've suggested diluting the Angelus and applying the dilute dye in several coats until the desired shade is reached. I have also managed to make a shocking magenta by mistake with Feibing's red dye that I had diluted with alcohol. I finally figured out that I managed to pick up a bare touch of blue into the diluted red and it turned the veg tan that color the following day. It was a brilliant red the day I applied the dye and it dried, and magenta the next.

Looks good, much better than some most of my protos.

Excellent. I was at the hobby store and was boggled by all the choices. That's the one I bought. I might just have to give this a try now.

I'm afraid I don't know about the sparkly, unless it is bringing up salts or some of the tannins with the fat, or I guess it could be the fat itself--I forgot that coco butter can crystallize into sparkly spots, so maybe leather fat can too. I've never worked with waxed or stuffed leather, or horse hide (which are types that commonly develop spew, I guess), so I've personally never encountered spew. I don't think it is detrimental though.

Maybe you have a case of leather spew? It's when fats (or waxes) migrate out of the leather, and if your hide has a lot of fat marks, it may have a lot of fat still in the flesh. http://leatherworker...showtopic=37192 http://leatherworker...showtopic=38118

You might call Springfield Leather. They've had them in the past and may have one or two on hand. I think ST leather has shark averaging 4-7 sq.ft, but they may have an 8 sq-ft. I haven't ever dealt with ST Leather though.

I think so. I just got one too. A google seach for " beveling leather lace " gave me this google search page: Clicking on the link for "Beveling Rawhide and Leather - Braiding" took me to the LeatherWorker.net forum, which was hijacked mid-load and redirected to this: