mlapaglia

Glad you here you got it fixed. Good idea. Ph will be fine.

I'm making a gun belt, my first, two pieces of 8/9 glued flesh to flesh and sewn. Tooled before they are joined. I know how to handle the chape end but do I skive the inside layer down for the billet end before the holes, or take it full size all the way to the end of the billet?

Hi, Love the new software. Is there anyway to change the "type" of window we post in so that firefox recognizes that it is a window it should spell check? I cant spell well at all and it would be nice to be able to use the spell checker again in FireFox. Since the new board the firefox spell checker does not work for me here. It does work in other forums. Firefox says that the post window is set to a type it does not recognize as needing spell checking. The checker I have installed for IE9 works but Id rather look like a fool with bad spelling than have to use IE9. I have Win 7 Firefox 15.0.1 For what it is worth I just started a new post in the belt section and the spell checker works in that post window. Just not in the reply windows. Ok I just did more checking and it only does not work in the quick reply windows. In the full editor it works fine. So place this at the bottom of the things to do. I can live with the full editor when I need to check spelling. Thanks Michael

Take a stiff wooden dowl and some Gum Trag and smooth the flesh side with the dowl and and light coat of gum trag. Like you are burnishing it but it wont change color. It will lay down and slick up really well. But better leather is the way to go if you can. Not something I can always afford to do.. Michael

The rack gear that the gear on the handle meshes with will break but its designed to so you dont break something important. But tension adjustments shouldnt cause any issues. Just go slowly with your adjustments no more than a 1/4 turn at a time. Let us know when you get it. Or let me know if you still get stuck and I can call you.

Sounds like you got a bad one. You can return it and get it replaced. Have them test the new on in front of you if you go to the store to replace it. I have no problems getting a great rounded edge with the ones I have from Tandy. I use the Keen Edgers 2, 3 and 4. All work great as long as they stay stroped. It really does sound like thats a bad one. FWIW I always lightly dampen the edge when I run the edger on it. Just a thought but hows your angle left to right. The recommended angle is 45 deg from the table top. I doubt its your problem but its worth mentioning. Michael

The initial tension settings are starting points. If you have to increase the top tension try using the primary adjustment. Leave the secondary one alone if you can. Also you normally dont need to adjust the bottom tension once its set to about a pound.

Whatever makes a good stitch is the correct setting. You might want to get some 1/4-20 nuts and screw them down over the tension nuts to keep the tension from changing as you sew. You will also find you may need to adjust the main tension when you change thread sizes. There is no "Correct" setting on the tensions. As long as its a good stitch you have it set correctly. For my machine your secondary tension is more than mine but not enough to matter. What ever makes a good stitch is the correct setting. You might want to get some 1/4 20 buts and screw them down over the tension nuts to keep the tension from changing as you sew. You will also find you may need to adjust the main tension when you change thread sizes. There is no "Correct" setting on the tensions. As long as its a good stitch you have it set correctly.

Not to insult you but more than one person has failed to remove all of the redish pink coating from the cutting surface of the edger. If you have it all off try stroping it. I have a piece of lace grain side down glued to a board and covered with the white "rouge". I use that to strop my edgers and it works great. Make sure you hold the beveler at the correct angle. Too low and it can skip, too high and it will gouge. Al Stohlman suggests about 40 dregrees vertical.

Set it aside for a few days. Vinegeroon is a chemical reaction and it should get black but may take a while due to the compressed leather area. Ive even vinegrooned pieces that were coated on the grain side. It just took a while for the reaction to make it all the way through. The rinse you did will not totally cancle the reaction. It should get there.

I have found that as soon as I wipe the dye, stain, or antique off and it is still on the resist I take a soft cloth with alcohol on it and rub it over the resist area. I have never failed to have it remove the unwanted color from the area I covered with resist. It may also take off the resist but you can put more on or just take care of it when you finish the piece.

Mike, Excellent job and done in your inimitable style. Great information and a great read. Well Done Sir. Michael

You can clean it with oxalic acid. The other thing is do your best to not get it dirty. I know its obvious but wear long sleeves or gloves so you dont get the leather dirty.

Point the hole down. I hold the shuttle horizontal so the thread has the least drag on it.

Picture?????

Ill take the following. PM sent. BW2-barbwire, lg · BW1-barbwire, lg straight · BW3-barbwire, lg corner · BW2-2-barbwire,sm 69016-00-1/8” Rope Border Set 10.00 Plastic Tool Rack 8123-00 1.00 · BW1-2-barbwire,sm straight · BW3-2-barbwire,sm corner

Call Ben at Tippmann. HE can and will help you. Its a free call. Just call before 4:30 pm their time.

Contact Steve 1-866-962-9880 EVen if its not a Cobra machine he normally knows the answer. OR, send a PM to Wizcrafts here on this board. he knows about everything there is to know about sewing machines.

For most leather you will find 207 or 277 works fine, Some folks here use 346. A max of 415 (#8) sounds right for that type of machine. You probably wont use that large of thread but you can.

Good job for a second one. You really should cover the trigger so its not exposed like it is. There is a danger of the trigger being tripped with it exposed like that. Id also shorted the distance between the two slots. You have way too much leather on the side for an avenger style. Here is an example of a shorter distance between the slots. It still provides a good pull against the belt. Other than that its a good start on a great hobby. well done.

When you get to the end of your stitch line back stitch 2 or 3 holes finishing with both ends of the thread on the back side. Cut them off as close to the leather as you can and the wax and tension will hold the thread in place. No need for a knot if you use waxed thread.

The nice this is you can just saddle stitch an item and burnish the edges and not have to lace something. Its all in how you want to do something.

Is the bobbin in the right way. By that I mean is the thread coming off in the right direction? Counterclockwise off the spool.

Can you tell us which machine it is?

If you want to set the bobbin tension to 1 lb get your self something that weighs 1 lb. Water in a disposable bottle is a good idea. Pull the shuttle assembly out and tie the string to the weight. if you can lift the shuttle and the weight lifts also its too tight. With the weight in the air and the shuttle (With bobbin) held horizontal adjust the screw until the weight starts to drop. Set it down and check it again. Your pull tension will be as close to 1 lb as you can with out a pull gauge. If that makes no sense just put the shuttle back in and set it for a light drag. Put 12 inches thread on the same 1 lb weight and pull it across a smooth table. That will give you a feel for a 1 lb tension. But the hanging bottle does work great to set the tension on the shuttle. I did mine that way then when I bought a trigger gauge I tested it and was at 17 oz. Michael. (please excuse the spelling errors. the spell check in Firefox is still not working on the new board.)