electrathon

I agree with this. It sounds like raw, not boiled. If it is, it will remain sticky. Do your best to remove it.

Contact Jason, he will likely let you buy it at the deal. He has been sending out updates as he gets more of the video work done. Very professional for a small scale video. His classes are great too if anyone is interested. His goal is simple shoemaking.

Leather Wranglers is one of the best. Bob Beard is the other best choice, but he makes limited quantities and they are hard to get.

Use this: https://www.amazon.com/SE-841DH-Micro-Double-Ended/dp/B000RB5JJO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522781654&sr=8-8&keywords=pin+vise cut in half and glued in. I find they hold better than the Starret ones that are 4 time more money.

This is correct if the bottom sole and midsole are both damaged. If it is just the bottom sole it is a lot easier. If it is, you can carefully remove the bottom sole (there is a solvent) and then put on glue primer. Two layers of glue, then attach the sole. Trim off the excess with a belt sander and you are done. It is a lot more complicate if it is more than just the lower sole.

It depends on the style of sole that is on the boot. If it is flat glues on sole you likely can do it. If it is a molded sole it is not going to happen. Weldwood in not strong enough to hold it, Renia, masters or barge.

Go to Jason's website, the turn shoe DVD is available now. He produced it a couple years ago. The Boot DVD is the one he is currently making. His site is : laughingcrowe.com

I also know Jason. The videos he is producing are top notch. If you are looking to make a simple set of boots I highly recommend this video.

Yes, replace the motor with a 120volt single phase (this is the common one) servo motor. You will get better slow stitching with the swap too.

The Bob Beard class is coming up very soon. If you are interested I can get a couple people into the class. Located in Portland Oregon, hosted at Oregon Leather. Contact me with any questions. Aaron

The pattern is cut, it is stamped in with the tool. Then you bevel. The tool comes as a set.

The guy is on facebook, the Pinterest image is of the tool. He makes a few different angles of the tool. I bought mine a couple years back and have not done any more than play a little with it. I just looked at the above link, that is the guy.

Could be. But if you look very close he would have had to turn his knife exactly the same and made intentional overcuts at a completely different angle than he was cutting at. Almost impossible to do, on purpose or accident. The imperfections are all in a straight line, as are the other imperfections. It looks to me like he was not that used to using the mini5 tool and got a little off on the alignment as he moves across the leather.

That looks like a mini5 basket stamp tool.

This is the picture we will be carving

Bob Beard will be teaching in Portland Oregon Oct 20 and 21, 2017 We will be doing Desert Turtle picture. Materials and supplies provided, you bring tools. This is a unique opportunity to learn from one of the top leather workers and tool makers in the world. Bob will also have a supply of black crack for sale at the class. This two day class is $250, hosted by Oregon Leather in Portland.

Your blade needs to be correctly sharpened and moved closer to the rollers. It can not touch the rollers though. It is getting past the rollers but not being fully pushed through the blade. You got a smoking deal.

No, it wont burnish. Best answer is to skive and turn the edge. Another possibility is to paint the edges.

dampening the leather can help with the scorching Two fast passes can be better than one slow pass too.

Sorry not yet. I have been buried at work and helping a couple friends on their houses. I need to get the exhaust ducted out and then will see how it works. I hope soon.

Ch4rlie, I think you will find your main issue is the edge retention. There is a book called the $50 knife shop that is directed at backyard knife making. Skip over the forging part and read up on the edge hardening part. It is a quenching method that is very simple to do at home. You should get a far better cutting edge when finished.

it is a CO2 laser Link here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/40W-USB-Port-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Engraver-Cutter-W-Wheels-/152106266467?hash=item236a3d6f63:g:E-MAAOSwyltZQz1o

Sitting in location.

I like the wood on the handle. What did you use to harden the blade? Is it edge quenched or dipped? What hardness were you able to achieve? A lot of the round knives have the taper brought farther up the blade toward the handle, it can help if you are in thicker leather and trying to keep the knife moving. I like that you are making as many of the tools as you can.

I have a wallet design that I use. Drew it up and had a bunch cut on a laser. They are perfect shape and very fast. You do need to air them out when they are first cut, they smell like death.