electrathon

one inch is 25.4 mm 6 stitches in an inch is them 25.4/6=4.23 4.23 mm prong to prong The width of the prong is half of the space and the gap is half if the space, so divide 4.23 in half and you have 2.11 you want a 2mm to get similar size to what you are looking at.

With all respect to JL I want to say this next part. I think you do very nice work. But I would make the exact same argument as to why we antique and do not brush dye into the void areas. If you look closely at the bottom right corner of the upright wallet you will see areas where the dye does not follow the lines well. Close inspection shows you go outside the lines and some areas slightly inside the lines. Your decorative cuts are not well accented since there is no color in the lines. Your work would look awesome if you would antique. My Dad taught me to do background dying like JL does when I started. I did it that way till I went to a Chan Geer class. I was amazed at the difference in what tooling could look like when it "pops' with the areas accented. I never looked back. I have since taught my Dad how to antique. I realize that this comes to personal preference. What I think looks good may be different than what you like. That is why there are so many different ways of doing things.

The resist does not stop the antiquing from getting into the groves. The antique "fills" up the cuts and scratches and it stays dark there. The smooth areas are wiped clean and the original leather look is retained. It works well since it only fills the voids. No brush slips or messed up edge lines. If you dye it manually it will look as good as you can paint. If you antique it, then it will look as good as you carve.

I am not looking forward to her stabbing me either!

Most of the tool makers are old men who do not fully understand the internet.

No, Leatherweld looks like Elmer's, but is a little thicker and holds better ( I tried Elmer's did not like it).

Lots od other answers. Bob Beard, Hides to Art, Chuck Smith, Hackbarth, to name a few. Tandy will warranty he tool, but the new one will be just as bad.

Looks nice, just make sure you do not piss her off now.

You stated it. Use a can, plate, lid or whatever is the correct size and cut along the efge of it. I just minutes ago used a container of Dr Jacksons to create a radius in a wallet insert. Aaon

Ha! I thought you whipped that out real quick.

Bruce, There are differant models ot the NevaClog. Do they all work? Do all of them use the same size staple? Aaron

click on the little box in the very top left of the header of this section. It says "toggle editing mode" and try it again.

Exactly what are we seeing? Describe the kind of product and the steps you took.

Yes. It does need to be sealed well, like with neet-laq or RTC. Aaron

I would use a zipper that is two inches too long on each end. Tuck the zipper between the liner and outter leather. Glue the end in so that it does not slip out. It will be impossible to overzip the end since it will hit the leather, but it will fully open when totally unzipped. Your sewing will simply end at the edge of the fold. Does that make since? It does to me, but I wrote it. Aaron

Thinner leather wet forms easier, thicker leather holds its shape better once formed. Any thickness of veg tanned can be formed.

If you want your stuff to stick forever get some Renia. It is what the cobblers use to glue the soles on shoes. Amazinly strong, easier to use than Barge and has the harshest smell of any glue I have used. That is one of the advantages of the white glue. It does not have a rubbery layer to get on your needles, just sort of disapears.

Hello new guy, There are a lot of variales to you questions. The one that is pretty much consistant is that it is cheaper to buy leather than to have your own leather tanned. Aaron

I strongly believe that your worst work is the standard for judging your talent/ability/quality. Everone will notice your mistakes. Don't fool yourself that they don't. Show someone uneducated bad work and they may be impressed. Show them quality and bad work and they will tell you the bad work looks nice and will be in awe at the quality work. If you accept that you do bad work, you will alway do bad work. Do great work an you will get better and better. Aaron

From a glue perspective leather weld is less permanant than contact,but it really is a permnant glue. I have a bottle of Fiegings "leathercraft cement" that seems to be the same thing. It is basicly white glue like you used in school.

Glyceine saddle soap bar. I get it at Costal. Cut the huge bar up into little pieces. One bar will last years, longer if you do not use it every day. Aaron

I use bar soap. Easy to carry around. Works well. You need to dampen the leather first, not sure if you have to do that when using liquid. Aaron

http://www.tolindsew...read-chart.html The style of shoe you are making will somewhat decide the thread size. But in general. uppers would be sewed with size 46 or 69 thread. 1mm is huge, that might be used to sew the soles on, but it may even be a litle large for that.

I did what everyone is saying for years. Then one day I eyed the bottle of leatherweld (it is a form of white glue) sitting on my shelf. It is not near as messy as contact and it works almost as fast. It also gives you a little bit of time to reposition and only needs to be put on one side. Less issues if you are burnishing the edges with the contact making an ugly line. Aaron

Tony, Please show up next Saturday at Tandy for leather day. Hanging out with other leather minded people would be a good diversion. I wrote you a letter of recomendation (not sure if it is still needed or to late) if you want it for school. I want your skiver if you are selling it. Aaron