electrathon

Looks very nice. I have a 29k-4 that I cleaned up, but I just powdercoated the base, did not do the machine.. You went way beyond what most do to restore the machine. Even more cool that it has a history.

I have a hot stamp machine (howard personalizer). It will imprint in chrome tan. It is kept cooler than a brand, so it does not really brand, more of a heat hardening. Aaron

Welcome. You will learn a lot here. You did not ask for a critique, but as to edge finishing there is a sticky thread about it. The little details make all the difference. Aaron Oh yea, Bev478... hello to you too.

Many cell phone holders have magnets in them. I have one in the one I made, did not kill my phone. Blackberry holders are supposed to have a magnet in them (I think it is to make it go to sleep when holstered.)

There are leathers that are veg tanned that are partially chrome tanned too. I do not know much about it, but it is my understanding they do it to speed up the tanning process.

Chrome tanned is soft and stretchy, veg tan is firm and hard. Chrome tan does not burnish, you can skive and fold and sew the edge for a finished look. I would use a sealer like Dr Jacksons or Sno-seal. They are a waxy slime you rub on and then buff it back off. Aaron

The two things I see. On your hand stitching you are rotating which thread is on the top of the stich and it is making your stitches inconsistent. Always put the same thread to the same side with each stitch. Second, on your long curved cut lines. Try to find an edge guide and pull your knife along the guide. Your lines will "wander" less that way. Aaron

If you are interested I am sure I have a set of printing type in that size. You would have to press it in, not hit it but you would end up with perfectly spaced and straight printing when you are done. Aaron

It is pretty bad. If you want to continue using it I would cut out the lace. Glue a thin (about 2 oz) layer of leather between the inside and the outside. Lace it back togeather. It will not be too pretty, but it would retain most of the origional wallet. Or make a new one.

I'll post when I get the rubber grinding part figured out. I bought the lasts off of EBAY. I think they were about $25.

Bruce, I almost always agree with you. Not this time. I can go into any store that sells stuff and buy it, check out and am not charged a handeling fee, even though the store overhead is many, many times more than it would be if it was a mail order. I have never understood the total double standard. If I went to your shop and bought something from you, took up a half hour of your time selecting it and then handed you money would you then tell me that you wanted an extra $20 for the time it took you to handle the sale? Store overhead covers shipping/handeling/heat/cashiers/theft(this one is HUGE)and on and on. Mail order overhead is a fraction of that, then you want to charge more. I have no comprehension of it at all. Aaron

The width was how the lasts were. The lasts are pretty old, at least 50 or so years so they are old school on the shape. Not sure if he likes them or not... he is still pretty short.

Well... LOL I was going to grind up some leather in the blender but thought I might get in trouble. I did not quickly find any rubber dust and I figured the shoes would end up being a prototype. So I used sawdust. It actually worked pretty well, but I am on the lookout for rubber grindings now. I do have a meat grinder that is not in use so I may try feeding some rubber gasket material through it and see how it works.

I got them finished. The sole is leather covered with Barge to make a gum looking sole. I think they are still a little big, better that way than to small though.

A decent blade at a good price is a Barry King blade. Tell him you are using a Tandy knife to make sure it fits it.

Greg, My Dad did leatherwork too for many years. I remember him in the shop tooling at the workbench when I was a child. I started doing leatherwork as a way to honor my Dad. If you do not figure out how to do the repair (I do encourage you to learn leatherwork) I would be honored to repair it for you. Aaron

The better the quality of the steel the longer a blade will stay sharp. If your blade is initially sharpened properly, the likely problem is that the cutting edge is folding over and you are resetting the burr upright when you are stropping. A better quality blade will fix the problem.

I want to rubber coat the bottom of a pair of moccassins I am making with a soft rubber sole. I know moccassins are often coated with a mixture of Barge with leather dust stirred into it. Not sure how much of either or if I should mix anything else into the mixture with it. Any answers woudl be appreciated. Aaron

Depending on what you are exactly planning, you can make a small box with as little as a box cutter, an awl and needle and thread. Posting where you are at really helps if someone has answers on local classes.

It looks to me like your leather is not sealed. Your antique dyed the leather all over. The other issue I see is you did not enough antique, it is not in all the cracks and crevices. Use more/better finish. Once it is sealed, antique it. Practice on work you do not care about.

Making a pair of shoes for my grandson. Basic layout done, very simple pattern. Time to start lastng them into shape. Bison outter leather lined with pigskin. Leather soles to be used. Aaron

I am familiar with silver pens to write on leather. The ones I have used rub off or a little alchohol cleans it right off. So, all excited, I drove to Tandy to buy one (actually, two). Turns out that the initial delivery of 12 are long gone, hope for more to come in next week. The local Tandy is one of the biggest there is so not sure if everyone got 12 of them or some stores less. If you want one right away, get it quick! Aaron

If you are not aware, Paul Zalesak if one of the best, anywhere, when it comes to sharpening.

I usually use the spine piece as a separate strip of thinner leather. I like the look and it helps it to bend. Aaon

Glue two thin layers of vegtable tan, flesh side to flesh side, and you will have inside and outside of your box both perfectly smooth.