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Sylvia

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Everything posted by Sylvia

  1. When I look at your trial pieces, I feel like the flower part... the purple part is over worked. The beveling doesn't enhance the fine detail, but rather makes it look somewhat like a scallop edged spoon. Sometimes LESS is more. I think if you use a hair blade (or several pointy crafters xacto blades taped together) and make deft long cuts so that it looks a lot like hair... and then only do a little beveling around the entire flower (purple) part and the bulbous area, you will be much happier with the results.
  2. Just a heads up. The "Silver" angelus paint is NOT a silver but rather a clear with a bunch of pearl. I'm not sure about the gold but I hear the same things as well. People are underpainting with a base color like yellow or grey then putting the "silver" or "gold" over the top. I found some enamel pens that work ok, but they take forever to dry. They are "Pactra Enamel Pens" I got them at a closeout place and haven't seen any since. You might try something like this http://www.amazon.co...el paint marker or this... http://www.amazon.co...el paint marker Oh and I"ve used these Sharpies too. http://www.walmart.com/ip/14906302?adid=22222222227008505014&wmlspartner=wlpa&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=13689268510&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem
  3. Ha ha ha.... just go down to the nearest pawn shop and buy yourself an inexpensive electric and give it a go. (a $20 cheapo)
  4. Chancy is right. In order for an acoustic to project sound, the top must vibrate. This is why some "cheap" guitars sound horrid. The bracing inside the inside under the face of the guitar dampens the vibrations, the more bracing... the less the top vibrates. Putting a leather cover directly on a guitar like this would turn it into a decoration... completely worthless to a musician. Electric guitars on the other hand rely on the pick ups, (actually the interference of the vibrating string over the magnetic field created by the pick ups) to make the sound. That is why wrapping an electric does nothing to it's sound.
  5. I think the key is to defuse the light. Even pro photography studios bounce and filter light before it hits their subject. I've been thinking about "light boxes" myself.... if I come up with something useful I'll be sure to share.
  6. I could be wrong but I would think that even compressed wool on the skins would provide a measure of protection for the horse. Consider that even a well fitting, tightly cinched saddle will have some movement. Prolonged rubbing would cause skin ulcers (think blisters) which would invite infection. I would think that we would want to do everything possible to protect such an expensive animal, especially if the horse is a stock or range rider's horse that could potentially save our lives.
  7. I'm afraid I agree with Jimbob. Work with one of the dealers here. They will take good care of you and may even be willing to meet the price of the ebay guy. One thing I wanted to mention. The sewing I had done prior to having my Toro3000 was always on a flatbed industrial or a home flatbed or one that converted from flat to free arm. A cylinder arm machine is a whole different critter and take some time to get used to. First these machines are HUGE and intimidating and have the power to sew through flesh and bone and keep on going. (scary) for that reason I would recommend that if you have never sewn before to get with someone who is willing to spend time with you and allow you to get the feel for one of these machines.
  8. I meant to look this up and link you to it... but I guess I got side-tracked. lol Anyway... look at the pdf in the first post on this thread It will give you a better idea of what I was talking about. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19995
  9. That reminds me of a Medieval Pike Axe Like this..... http://northstarzone.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/114-2092.jpg Which begs the question, were these cobblers retired warriors that re-purposed their weapons?
  10. I'm pretty sure that's been shared 100 times or more. I think I shared it myself a year or so a go. lol Thanks though! Now I get to book mark it again!
  11. I don't know what the others will say but in my opinion you case leather in preparation for tooling. Unless your glue is water activated like Gorilla glue which I would not recommend for this application, you would need dry leather.
  12. Hi Hamish. Got a picture of the Buffalo? Is it Bison or Water Buffalo? Although we use "veg Tanned" and "tooling leather" interchangeably, Not all veg tanned is for tooling.
  13. Kid: If you have an especially fuzzy back side (leather back side, that is) ... you have to Prep it before any slicking method. I use a belt sander and sand those big ol' fuzzies down so it looks a lot like suede... THEN and only then do any dye and slick method.
  14. Hi Charlene: I haven't attempted to draw my own western floral yet but I have read a lot about it. To my eye it appears that you aren't "completing the curve" as Paul Burnette (RIP) talked about. The idea is to think in terms of spirals and circles and where one leaf or petal leaves off, the next one should follow that same curve. That is why your curvy leaves look stubby, you've cut them off before they complete the curve and or merge with the next element(flower) Even if you terminate the leaf part way, the eye should be able to follow an imaginary line that completes the spiral. Hope this helps some. Syl
  15. I recommend that you talk to Cobra Steve. It may take him a while but he'll find you a good machine... just be certain of exactly what you want/need.
  16. I've also seen videos of people not fully pulling the handle toward them.... while simultaneously complaining it won't pull up the bobbin thread and won't stitch. Here is a troubleshooting video. Here is a video of a woman correctly working the handle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tjZLGoLnIk
  17. Dang it Mike!!
  18. Sylvia

    Artisan

    Cripes I wish I was rich... I'm over here in Caldwell wishing I'd win the lottery.
  19. I'm sending this link to a friend who is just starting.
  20. I have some chrome tanned that DOES take water. But I'm wondering if some of the "off" companies might have the buffalo you want. About a year ago I bought some deer tanned Cow from someone that liquidates odd lots from tanners. His site is http://www.theleatherguy.org/BISON-BUFFALO-HIDES-Old-15367.aspx He has chrome tanned and "old world" brain tanned buffalo. Sometimes he even has moose. Another place is http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm I see about 3/4 of the way down is a black bison that looks nice.
  21. Very well said, Mike. I hope those involved take this to heart and re-evaluate their biting words and make apologies.
  22. Raven: Are shipments from NZ expensive too? I know that Kellie tools is back to making leather craft stamps, maybe Noel could make you a custom one? http://www.kellymida...ics.co.nz I figure it couldn't hurt to ask. Another American custom maker is Black River Laser. I know they ship internationally.
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