Sylvia

Here is a tutorial on rolled edges you spoke of. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9940 Pm. me too... I have a super secret but oh so stupid easy edge technique you might want to try.

Yes, I agree, give Cobra Steve a call. He can also find you a Used machine that might fit into your budget a little better. It may take him some time to find one but you'll be happy with his service and care.

That's certainly a cheap enough solution and better than a cotton swab. I've seen something similar with a longer wooden handle somewhere that might be easier to grip

I put my burnishing tool into my drill press but there have been times when just the thought of having to stand there in the cold or heat of the garage to burnish something is almost unbearable. I like this idea.... I wonder if a stand mixer such as Kitchen aid with the front port would work as well as your hand mixer one. I do have one question though... when you "cake beater" your edges... what speed works best?

would set up a test for yourself on some scrap. Put Zelikovitz top coat on a section, then your 50/50 of Resolene, and some of the Saddle Lac. Then drop some water on it. If it beads up and rolls off without dampening the leather use that one. I believe it's the water that helps facilitate the black staining. You want the leather to pretty much be water proof. Certainly use the lacquer on the buckle too... it couldn't hurt.

Welcome to the wonderful, but sometimes frustrating world of leather. I looked that your picture and I think that may be dirt or gunk. Have you tried wiping it away yet? If you tried and it didn't come off at all, you are experiencing a chemical reaction between the tannin in the leather and the steel of the buckle... it's permanent. To prevent this on further projects seal the leather with several light coats of one of the "shenes" or resolene allowing them to dry at least 24 hours between coats before you put the buckles on. (some folks will say a shorter time... but give the 24 hours especially if you live in a humid area)

Cracked... as in the finish is literally cracked?

Duck... when it doubt hand it on the wall. and call it art.

I agree with Camano. Properly cased leather. Now if you ask the question what is "properly cased." you are going to get a few answers. I like to wet my leather, stick it in a plastic bag, place it in a cool area (some folks put it in the fridge). 8-12 hours later flip it over... then the next day let the surface return to the dry color and start tooling folks have asked me why I flip the leather half way through the casing time. I think it allows the water to reach the center of the leather better. It seems to work for me.

Keep in mind that leather once wrapped around a cow or some other animal. Even though it appears flat, is does have a tendency to curve based on it's original position on the animal. If you are working with a side I don't see an issue with keeping it rolled up. When studying how to make moccasins it was pointed out in one tutorial the importance of cutting the pieces perpendicular to the spine of the cow in order to keep the boots/mocks from twisting when made.

Now that we know the other is a candy cutter (for taffy maybe?) I would guess that this one is for jelly beans and jujubees. LOL These were sold to you as leather machines?

You aren't alone Azur.. I've broken lots of needles by hand stitching with pliers. I have to agree with that other guy. The needles are inexpensive and you should be able to keep a few on hand. If that is not an option, you MIGHT be able to solder the broken edges together I don't know how well that would hold though. Good luck

Glad you are happy rgepting. I love mine too! I now want to get some of Dave's rivet spots and the dies to match! I'm sure before it's over I'll have a nice collection of dies for mine. lol

I like Conchos.com and for cool rivets and spots I like Standard Rivet Of course Goldstartools.com has some rivet style spots I like fast, cheap shipping and decent products. So far, Conchos and Goldstartools has been the most favored.

The 20s are fine. Joyce sent me one of her completed ones and that's what she had on it.

Woo hoo! To anyone interested in turning your press into a kick press study this picture. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EeN0flJCzjw/TMpZ-OnNX7I/AAAAAAAAALo/Xc4FvWKFDHw/s400/footpress-cherly.jpg Also It's a good idea to color code your die sets. I used nail polish but any paint should do the job.

LOL Jeff... stop calling your wife a chubby girl.

I've never tried it but some say it works. Oxalic acid (wood bleach) You can get it from TruValue or Ace Hardware.

Just remember TXAG... while you are pointing fingers and passing judgment 3 of your fingers are pointing back at YOU.

Exactly!! Just like any art. I personally don't like abstract art... but it sells for millions. I don't like junkyard art... but it sells too. I just think it is poor form to express ones distaste for another's work in a public forum. Opinions like assholes stink...but we all have one.

Hold on here folks. Art is in the eye of the beholder. Some people LOVE the rustic look of things. Just because we hold ourselves to a higher standard doesn't mean that gentleman's stuff is crap. I'm personally in the process of "dragging behind the car" a nice piece of HO leather I am making a holster from. The person wanted it to look old and worn... and he's paying me to do it. I asked him 4 times if he was sure... he kept saying "Yep" so I beat it with a lava rock yesterday... scuffed it up with 80 grit sand paper... and will sand at it again when the thing is finished so it looks like it's had the hell worn out of it. Please step down from your high horses.... and come back to earth. We each have our own idea of what looks good...

Look at that package again, Camino Ridge. ..... the 3 dies are Grommet dies only. You did the same thing I did... got excited... then I was disappointed. I called Dave and asked him to make up a package for us leather workers. It's the hand press, ligne 20 and 24 ring snap dies and a 8mm rivet die and 100 8mm double cap rivets for $89.99. If you want further info... like Dave's number. PM me.

If you don't feel like pounding conduit.... just search for a slot punch. If you want old and awesome... Talk to Bruce Johnson. If you just want something that works... check out Tandy. (but be warned you may need to take a rat-tail file to the thing)

Hi... I would go to stecksstore.com and look for his Fiebings paste antique. It's already spirit based and comes in a tub. His prices are reasonable and he is very fast at shipping. http://www.stecksstore.com/servlet/Categories