Sylvia

Yes, you could probably do that yourself provided you have a good feel for mechanics and can find some guidance somewhere. Yes, it would be a charge if you had a tech do it if your purchase didn't include that. It might be a good idea to pay the charge and watch closely and ask questions.

That is sad news. RIP Mary.

1) Why do you participate in leatherworking? I participate in leather working because it allows me to explore different ideas. Leather can be formed, carved, stamped, bent, branded and I am sure there are other methods I haven't thought of yet. It is one medium that keeps me entertained. 2) What would you say the demographic makeup of the community is? Leather workers typically run the gambit. There are members here at LW that are in their teens and some that are octogenarians. 3)Why do you enjoy leatherwork? It's a creative a outlet that has the a long history. The projects are typically useful and beautiful at the same time. If I need something like a sheath or a belt I can make it. Which is brought me back to this craft after some 30++ years, my husband needed a belt. 4) Any other thing you would like to say about the activity? It teaches patience. Good luck on your project. Check out the leather workers on Youtube if you can't find a local. You might also call your closest Tandy Store to interview someone. Most of those folks are leather workers too.

HI Wiz! I would say so! lol (and very smart, too)

Making your own harness needle awl would be fine exercise in making your own tool to meet a need. I say go for it. If all fails you can buy your hobby awl.

I think you did a very nice job. That said. the bright white eyes on everyone and baby Jesus looks a little disturbing. Is there a way to maybe add a tiny tiny touch of something to dull that down some? Despite that I am duly impressed.

I don't see zig zag. Scott, use a round awl, make sure your stitching points are marked. Awl, then saddle stitch as normal. Keep your stitching process the same. If you insert the right needle first... do that all the way around. Pull tight. The round awl will help prevent the angle.

Once you figure out the correct way and get it threaded, you might do what the production seamstresses do and clip the thread near the spool, tie on the new thread... and pull the needle thread until the knot gets to the needle. clip off at the knot and thread the needle. (great for those who tend to forget or don't change thread colors often)

Very nice find! Congrats!

Isn't that why they had tie downs?

Excellent find! I think I would want to know how to sharpen a Bell Knife before anything else. :D Have fun learning... and don't skive your fingers.

Remember this "problem" if you ever get an order that wants you to "make it look old and well used." Breaking the grain is a normal part of wear and with a little bit of sanding with a light hand can make it look old and worn very quickly.

Now that is a tip worthy of acknowledgment; no matter if it's oil tanned or not. The paper would help with light darkening on Veg tanned too. Thanks Scott! Syl

Why not give SLC a call and see what they think.

I have to wonder if your belt blanks are old or dried out leather.... just saying

The only thing I would add to your list and to the other's advice is patience... lots and lots of patience. If you think your dye is dry 2 hours after dying.. it's not.. give it 24 to 36 hours to dry before you do anything else. More people have trouble when they rush a process. If you can start out knowing that you have to allow time between dye coats and finishes... you have half the (learning) battle won. Good luck!

Hi Danton: Thank you for the tutorial. The only suggestion I would have... learned from doing clothing tie dye is to make sure that the dyes are applied from the lightest color to the darkest color. For example. Start with yellow, then add the red, blue, brow, black... etc. Also, did you use true leather dies or pigments dissolved in some sort of solvent? (water, alchohol?)

I wouldn't airbrush oil. In fact, I would not use any applicator except my hands. I over oiled a project once and ended up having to redo the entire thing. Now I oil strictly by naked hands.

I feel your pain. I looked for copper colored ones, not even solid copper. Had no luck except for some really ugly designer ones somewhere.

Sand, sand, sand... when it's like suede... dye it if needed... then seal with Mod Podge. That's the only thing I've found that seems to work ok. Mod Podge is flexible so it bends and gives with the leather.

Hi Ray: I am pretty cautious around my blades with my hands and torso, but this thing got me when I had set it down and went and reached across for something. It wasn't bad but it did bleed a bit... and made me suck wind. The thing I'm really bad at especially in the summer is working barefoot. I really need to quit that... I kind of like my toes where they are! I have two of the Tandy strap cutters. One I bought and the other was a gift from a mystery person. One of them recently broke right where the blade goes in. I think if I glue it, it will be fine but then again it is an excuse to explore other options. :D Unfortunately the budget is blown for a long while after I purchased this. http://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=E1NKD3200KT&sacpn=SASCWNDTS&service=4&site_id=5655611&saproductid=44088

Tanglfoottraders has a "branded rivet domer" tool set for $130. That might work for your flat top snaps. Look here. http://tanglefoottraders.wix.com/tangle-foot-trading#!__knife-sales-page Otherwise you might have to talk to the makers overseas to have a special die set up and you'll likely have to buy 10,000 or more of the same thing and have them made and wait for it to get through the import process and customs.

That's nice to know, Ray. I have a standard metal draw gauge... used the crazy thing once and put it way after I put a bandage on. lol

Yeah, they are pretty proud of it. However the first editions are going for over $500 so... I hope to find one at my local library's book sale.

That's not a bad price. To the Original Poster... check out Al Bane's youtube channel for some sewing tips. (he is using a cobra but the machines are pretty much the same)