Sylvia

Wow, that has to be old. It looks like some of the Mid 1800s sewing machines. Have you considered asking CS Osborne about it.. perhaps they have some old literature on it.

That sounds like it's slipped time.... The hook should be fairly close by the needle as the needle starts to travel upwards, so it can catch the loop the thread makes.

Here's an online copy of the manual for this. http://www.manualslib.com/manual/522852/Singer-211g155.html?page=6#manual On page 6 it shows this area. I can't tell what's going on with yours but it looks as if something isn't quite right.

Hand punches. I had the most difficult time with aligning holes until I found the Templates that Black River Laser makes. Look here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CENTERING-AIDS-2-PIECE-TEMPLATE-SET-CRAFTAID-STENCILS-FOR-LEATHER-CRAFT-NEW-/140816612487?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c952fc87 It's easy to line up the width of the leather to the lines on the template, hold it down and mark with an awl, then just hold your punch with the leading edge centered on the mark and whack a hole in it. (I tend to have the belt or what ever long-wise going away from me) I've not done it yet but maybe it is something you can work on. Tandy has a handle with several tube punch fittings that screw into it. The screw in part does not fit the press, but I've often thought that an adapter could be made from a rivet die.... then thinking on that... it would almost force you to find the center of the belt, then the width of the holes, mark the placement on either side... a lot of layout time right there. Next I thought about a gang punch for different sized belt widths... and that's $$$ to get made. So I stuck with my hand punches and the Black River Template.

Heh... that part made me laugh. People ask me why it takes me so long to get started.... it's because i try to think of everything and write out a process plan BEFORE I cut leather. The mask turned out very nice. It almost looks real to me.

I wish I could find my husband's thread sizer doohickey- thingy that would help getting the threads right. You are welcome for the photo.... you are just lucky that I had a set of dies that came in a couple days ago sitting on my desk and my camera nearby. lol I'm about to paint these dies with nail polish so I can quickly grab the pair I need without having to look at the business end of each dye... I'll just grab the purple set. Someday I want to have a block made for them but for now the color coding will have to work.

Hi Tossik. Yes the top dies are threaded, the bottom dies are drop in. I do not think they will fit the Osborne press without an adapter of some sort. However it might be worth the $20 to see if they would work. Not sure I can get a photo to post here... but I'll try.

LOL oh yes and that too... I've actually found myself angry enough to beat the rivets so hard that the metal cap tore... lol That's when I started turning down jobs that required rivets or snaps... unless I could convert them to buckles... I just would gracefully as possible decline the job. Some of that "moving" is a problem with too long of a stem on the snap or rivet... but I so know what you mean... GRRRR. lol

Camerus... are you talking about a set of hand tools and anvils? That's a good price. It is just that many of us have issues with hand setting rivets and snaps. As for myself, even with antique hand setters that have a good ridge around the edge, I would fail to get a good roll and the snap would pull right off.... Or worse the newer tools I have would drive past the ridge and just flair the tube and not roll at all and again.. the snap would pull off.. the $90 was well worth the investment.

Awesome! The dies shouldn't be too hard for importer to get. I wouldn't pay much more than $20 Oz Dollars for the die sets. If all else fails... you could get them from Dave.. he does ship world wide but I'm afraid your duties and shipping cost would really hit hard.

It's the Green press, line 20 and line 24 ring snap dies (like we use) and an 8mm rivet die... and 100 8mm rivets for for $89.99 shipped. I do know that his hole punches for the press are for fabric or canvas and do not work on leather I don't press my makers mark anymore. I used to use an arbor press for that and hammering was a problem since it bounced on me a lot. I suggest a VERY heavy mallet or maul (like 2lbs or more) line it up, draw back and smack it hard ONCE. done....just don't miss and hit your hand. lol

Hi Tossik: I can't answer your question because I don't have that machine either. However, you certainly can give Goldstar a call and see what they have to say about either machine. The deal I set up is for the the green machine and it's perfectly serviceable for most of us. If you do a lot of volume then I would definitely got for the kick press rather than a hand press. The difference Is see with the black press is a deeper throat and a longer padded handle. So I guess it would really depend on what you place your snaps or grommets or what not on. As with anything... get the best you can afford. Do definitely call Dave at the told free number and question him. Ask him for a similar deal to the "Sylvia from Idaho Deal... then report back here and let us know what he says. Oh and FYI... he's going to be carrying leather sewing machines very soon. Yes, they are Juki 440 clones... like the Cobra 4

Hi Girl: Don't try to "find" drill press punches. Just use long handled hammered punches and chuck them into your drill press.

The easiest way is to remember to ask your leather supplier to "put a straight edge on this" for you. Failing that you'll have to do one of the methods above with a long straight edge.

You can sand the flesh side (with a bench top belt sander) until it is the texture of fine suede then slick it with liquefied saddle soap... and seal it down with gum tragacanth and finally your regular sealer/finish. If you plan on dying, do so before after the soap and before the Gum T.

That's my thinking exactly... I already have the "maxi" set, I just need the extra rivet dies and someone that can do a good job at drilling and tapping them.

I agree paprhangr. I've been thinking on that (it's the frustrated engineer in me) You know that set tandy sells with one handle and like 4-6 punches that screw in? I was thinking of getting one of bigger die sets for rivets and having someone drill and tap the upper die to fit that thread on the tandy sets.

You are welcome Simon. It should be noted though that some have had problems with the Tandy line 20 snaps not working with the presses' line 20 die. Come to find out that some of the Tandy snaps are actually more like 18.5 or 19mm instead of 20. It might be wise to have Goldstar send you snaps to match the line 20 dies.... though my line 24s from another company and Tandy worked just fine.

this is probably the best deal for you since you use grommets. Comes with 300 of each size grommet sets to match the die sets. http://goldstartool.com/Grommet_and_Snap_Press_Machine_Package_3_dies_plus_900_grommets.html then this is the whole punch die set. I can't speak to how this works though. http://goldstartool.com/Hole_Punch_Die_for_Grommet_Machine.html

I would say yes. But the dealer has dies for $20 that does the hole punching. You might want to look at his Grommet Press Deal. It's quite a bit less expensive but comes with 3 dies I think. Then you can add your leather dies for snaps and rivets for $20 per set as you need.

What kind of hardware? You don't say. Standardrivet.com Conchos.com Goldstartool.com

I use Fiebings glycerine bar saddle soap. I grate it into a Quart jar with water (hot) then give that a good shake. (or if you really want to get fancy cook it in a pot the stove until the grated soap is completely dissolved and pour that into your jar) 1" square of the soap will make a small mayo jar of soap "slime" that works as well as the liquid stuff.... why pay for water? I did a cost analysis once... Bar of soap is about $6. I figure one can get about 10, QT jars from it. Saved something like $95.