Sylvia

what about that smooth rubber floor tile that hospitals use? That's what my pondo board reminds me of.

The recent conversation about my winter woes in a cold cold shop has gotten me thinking. I know that is dangerous. lol I think one of these Yurt things would make an awesome shop. https://www.facebook.com/pacificyurts http://www.pacificyurts.com/ I've always wanted property in the woods with one of these set up on it... maybe one in the back yard would suffice for a shop.

LOL now that IS a picture. Well, I bought some insulated bibs that should be here soon. There really isn't any where inside to have the shop. Darling hubby has taken over the office, I can't be in there with him because of a couple annoying things he does while I'm trying to concentrate.... and my music room which he now has set up for repairing guitar amps. And I really don't want it in the living room or our bedroom... no room. I'm ok with short jaunts to the shop working for an hour and escaping back inside, normally... but when it is this cold out... I can barely get 20 mins in before it's time to get warmed up again. Mike: Thanks for that link... that may just be what I need!

Substance over looks any day. Hope you find it a good trade

Why, yes, Yes, I am . lol There may be a parts list out there for this machine... want that too if I can find it? Awww heck, I'll just give ya the link... since I found it. http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/31-17_18_29.pdf

Charles: One of the best pieces of advise I ever got on here was when someone told me to use a felt tip pen and darken the edges of my blades before I attempt to sharpen. This little bit of info shows immediately what your problem is, especially if you are getting the angle off. If your angle is off... you are not sharpening... no matter how many strokes you do. Also this may seem intuitive for some but it needs to be said. "Push to sharpen, pull to strop" Regarding"thick/thin blades... that refers to the thickness of the blade itself. I prefer a thinner blade for most things.

Sinpac: Join this Yahoo group (use a different email address in case they are email happy) and see if you can get the poster Charles to send you a copy. http://dir.groups.yahoo.com/group/Sewing-with-Industrial-Machines/message/229

This is a very good tip! Thanks Eric!

I've not had this problem on an industrial machine but I have experienced it on an antique Singer. It turned out that the needle plate was the culprit. Through years of use the plate had been stabbed so many times that it actually had a knife edge and hairline crack that was fraying and cutting the thread. I would have you examine the entire sewing area for burrs and such. (needle, needle throat plate, bobbin, bobbin case, shuttle, etc.)

User manual here: http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/31-17_18_21.pdf

The garage is insulated, just not heated. In fact, I think part of the issue is that once the garage gets cold, it retains the cold instead of warming up during the day. I've considered the Tarp thing to make the heated area smaller maybe I'll revisit that idea. It's not too bad today. Thanks everyone for the ideas and comments. It really helped.

Benlilly: Because the only area left to work leather is the living room and I got tired of having leather shavings and stuff all over. (The office is fully of my husband's stuff and my music room was taken over by him as well.) Besides I smoke inside the house but not in the garage. I did use a nice fat yellow extension cord for the heater but it's still doesn't do much heating. Check on the uncoiling, I'll be sure to do that. One thing about it being cold out there... I don't piddle about much. I get what I need done and retreat to the house. So far this piece of leather has been cased for 4 weeks. One casing, covered over with 3mm thick plastic. It's just now getting almost too dry to work, luckily the tooling is done... it's all finish work now.

Thanks Dwight. That's what I was thinking Bibs. Found some for a fair price $33 shipped. So I should have them in a week or so.

Thanks for the ideas. I don't mind it when it is in the 40s and my hands remain warm... it's just the old bod that gets cold. The trouble is once I'm cold I stay cold for a while. Wood stove is NOT an option and I don't have a south facing window in there that I can use to make a solar heater. I have a little electric one but it's about worthless. (thanks anyway hubby) and to top that off it says I can't use it on an extension cord and warns of using it near things like dyes that put off flammable fumes. I'm really leaning toward insulated bib overalls. Easy to get out of when nature calls and still keeps the bod warm.

Since I moved most of my leather stuff out in the garage I've been mighty cold. And after 4+ years I finally got to buy a few new pieces of clothing and retired to the bin things that have been tie dyed and mended to death just so they wouldn't look so stained up and worn out. But now I have to wonder... what does every one else wear in the shop? Plain old clothes that is already stained and half worn out? Do any of you wear an apron? What about coveralls or Big overalls? Since I am about to freeze to death out there (it's currently 33*F in my shop) I'm thinking a pair of insulated coveralls would be nice ....or at least some insulated bibs. Suggestions?

I agree with Chavez. I don't think it needs to be incorporated into the design, though I see that a lot. I prefer to make mine less conspicuous.

Renee you are welcome. Heh... you mean the fellow at Soddhoppers? I grew up around his stuff and always coveted his elk or Buffalo boots. He has a instructional DVD set for $500 but man that was too rich for my blood. The Seamlyne fellow does exactly, well almost.... the same boot and uses the same method. I have a cast and pattern made but I forgot an important step. Marking across the lines so you know where to match up the pattern. I'll need to recast the pattern now because that's really important when you go to construct the pieces.

That's Purrrrrfect. lol Seriously, very very nice. I'm sure Muffin loves her new clothes too.

Looks good to me Renee. For those who need help with up-sizing the pics to see them Just click on the thumbnail then hold down CTRL and repeatedly press [ + ] until it's max. When done viewing hold down CTRL and Press zero [ 0 ].

You are over thinking it. Just mark it if you are proud of it.

Why not just email Artifactbags and ask?

Yes, he was a wonderful person with a generous soul. I have a few things he made that he traded with me for and a couple he just gave me. I cherish these pieces and think of Gary each time I use them.

It would have to be strong enough to destroy the floors too. I would get a couple types and dilute then test on some scrap leather. If all else fails you can clean your floors. LOL

Natalie: Do you know if you have an acrylic wax based floor cleaner there? We have something called "mop & glo" One of our members (Katsass)swears by it and he uses it all the time, thinned... I think. to 50/50 water to cleaner. If you could get something like that locally you would save yourself a lot of time... and shipping and import issues. Also, Sometimes I use use permanent markers to color leather rather than dyes and a brush. I find the markers give more control and are less likely to rub off. Sharpies and Bic both have sets with good selections of colors. I like to let them "set" for a few days before I put any other type of finish on them. BTW... Patience, patience, patience. Most disasters come from trying to move on to the next step too quickly. As far as testing before hand.... I've had mixed results with that. It needs to be a piece of leather from the same leather and area of hide that you made the project from.