bruce johnson

If you want a straight up comparison of the Toro vs 26, call Leather Machine Co. Dave and Vince at Leather Machine Co both used to work for Artisan. I have no experience with the latest owners at Artisan but have a long running relationship with Steve and now Dave and Vince that all worked at Artisan before they started Leather Machine CO.

The small lever Is to hold the roller forward. Push forward on the large handle and you can flip the small lever end in behind it to hold it open and feed your leather in. The broken spring - common place for them to break, that is why ShopTalk magazine used to sell replacement top and front springs and large handles because they were the most broken parts on a Krebs and the previous owner restored some. It will probably function just fine like it is as a user. Finding a replacement spring? Hard. Before somebody says "have one made" - The tension has to be just right - too soft and the roller will move forward and get uneven splits, Too hard and you will have hell opening it and you may say bad words if the handle breaks just above the pivot bolt. It happens. As far as cleaning it up, you will not destroy any value on most leather tools and bench machines. The only time I have ever had customers want anything "as-found rustic" was to hang on a wall for decor or photo and video props. One guy told me when he ordered a Krebs - "I don't want it to look like I stole it off the wall at Cracker Barrel". I've probably done 25-30 of them. I take them totally down to parts and blast them, inspect closely for stress cracks, then prime and paint. I just blast that loose chrome off the drum and paint it. Hardest thing on a Krebs is usually the lever on the adjustment drum. There is a little set screw in there that can take work getting out and then setting it back seated into the depression when you reassemble. When you loosen the lever the clicker and spring can sometimes go flying out - be ready with a towel wrapped around most of it to catch it when you work that lever down and out. They clean up really nice and worth the effort. I've attached pictures of a couple I have done.

I'm glad to announce that Bruce Johnson Leather Tools LLC is now selling new Y-Knot Lace tools to go along with the Wayne Jueschke lace cutter we had sold for while now as well. These are nice lace cutting and processing tools in a few different styles. I've got experience with all of these from work in the past, and am glad to be able to carry them now in our inventory. Please check them out at https://brucejohnsonleather.com/products/braiding-and-lacing-tools/lace-cutters Thank You! - Bruce

Great job and clean work! I have a soft spot for Randall sheaths. Right now I am in a limited advisory role in the leather shop and most of the after-work time is spent in the tool shop. Once I retire from the day job then I plan do a few fun projects besides tools. A sheath for my Randall 1-7 is probably first up.

If you are machine sewing and it gets closer to the core, some threads can really have tight memory. Lay the spool on its side and let it unroll like a level wind fishing reel. My old pal used to sew off all his thread spools that way on closed eye needle machines.

Besides the folks already mentioned - Sheridan Style Leather Carving book - Clint Fay, Bill Gardner, and others, Creating Western Floral Designs - Bob Park Chan Gear pattern packs I'm forgetting a bunch but this will get you started

Coming up on 39 years experience from doing my own crappy repairs to hobby/small income side deal to a full time custom/production side gig to refurbisher and seller of old and new tools. I had a series of articles in ShopTalk magazine (now Illume) about upgrading from entry level tools. Here are some points that don't overlap those much. Machines - The first stitcher I bought was a Boss. About 25 years they were $1600 with the basics, anything that sewed with power was over $5K. You can make a manual stitcher like that work and pay for itself. For about $1000 or so more - I'd consider the Cobra 26 from Leather Machine Co. Pretty darn versatile and good support. We have a 1245 and Ferdco 2000, had a singer 17, and my wife got a 26 at Prescott. She loves that machine. Belts, bags, whatever - it will do it. Clickers and cutting machines - a lot of the same thing? OK. Dies are not cheap but can pay for themselves if you are semi-production or more. You can use steel plates and LDPE cutting boards in a shop press to get started instead of a clicker and save that money for dies. Did it for years until I got a Weaver hand clicker in a shop buyout. Rundi still uses the shop press one a lot. Splitters - I joke with people that reason I know enough about different splitters is that I didn't know much about the differences and bought several over the years - none will do everything and they all will do something. I've had the $50 utility knife blade versions and the 18" Randalls through here. I've got favorites for different things. There is a tutorial on my website comparing different styles of splitters. Cutting tools - Good knives, cutting surfaces, and a sharpening system that gives good results and you can use reliably. Otherwise disposable blade versions of some variety. The self healing mats are OK for roller knives like the Olfa for soft leather. Use a straight blade and it will drag like a square wheel lead sled, then pop out of the mat at the worst time and you will say bad words. Cut on HDPE/Punch on LDPE. both are readily available and pretty inexpensive. For strap cutters - again a tutorial on my website comparing them. Punches - don't expect them to be sharp out of the box from most sellers. The best ones will maintain an edge longer if you stamp into the right material (sole material or LDPE) but eventually they will need to be sharpened. Stamping - Realistically - start with a solid base like a heavy built bench. You don't want flex or bounce and then you want to put something with some mass on that. People will tell you that free sink cutouts are fine. If it works for them great. Once I got a messed up headstone, it was a world of difference. I would never go back at that point. Granite inspection plates are a good option too. They don't have to be perfect and tight tolerances. Grizzly and other places have some that are more than adequate. When I built my bench I inlaid a Grizzly plate. People that try stamps out here can't believe the difference that a stamp rock makes. Next would be a good maul or mallet. Doesn't have to mean expensive - just fits and stays put in your hand and has the weight and feel that is comfortable. Stamps - I sell $5 stamps and $350 stamps. There is a quality/price point for them and everybody has different expectations. You can use some stamps like smooth shaders or bevelers forever. You can't fudge a basket stamp that is flat and not much contour. I tell people after you have made about 10,000 impressions with a basket stamp - the cost per impression is essentially nothing between a $5 basket and $50 basket, but the quality of your work has been different all along. Pick the set stamp stamping tools you use that will make a difference with impressions first. I made a lot of money with a cam border and a #500 Craftool basket stamp - good impressions from that particular stamp. Edgers - there are a bunch of choices in makers, styles, and quality. Some people just want corners knocked off and some want a 180 degree arc on the edge. There are no blanket recommendations for sizes. Size numbers and styles vary between makers. I've got favorite styles in vintage and new makers. Having a style that is easy for you to sharpen and maintain is the key. Again that pesky cost vs expectations raises up. People that know my story will understand. One of the best days in my shop was several years ago. I finished a full floral rope bag and was looking at it in the box. Start to finish, everything used on it from cutting to applying finish was appropriate. I did not have to improvise or fudge once. I was on the "pay as you go plan". Every tool and machine had been paid for with previous work.

Those look really good Tom!

That picture is from my current website. Please don't throw the baby out with the bathwater here regarding webp pictures. Eight months ago I had never heard of webp. Much as I didn't like to change initially, I was backed into using webp pictures with my new website. The old site was built on a platform version that passed support after 8 or 9 years and the new site had to built from scratch on a new platform. With a 1000+ pictures/files on my site and constant expansion in inventory the webhost said he could not carry my site anymore unless we drastically cut it down. It quadrupled in bandwidth since the start (BTW - thanks to all who made that happen!). Less pictures wasn't an option for me. He said webp was basically our best option to continue on. A typical jpeg used on the last site version was around 400 kb, the same picture in webp is about 50 kb. That is a huge difference in server space multiplied out. It was an acceptable trade off for me to have a site that works for my business. The bigger plus is that I still get support from the same web designer/webhost/business advisor I have established a relationship with for years. I was not relishing time away from shop stuff to stare at a screen though. For a few weeks after Sheridan I was doing nothing but converting pictures from jpeg to webp and then having to recaption them as well. Interestingly enough, I am seeing more webp pictures now in my downloads from other sites I frequent, especially the big time on-line suppliers. I can't find anything on the front side here as to what formats are supported for pictures. This may be something we need to address. Other than the string bleeders, there are some other options for bleed knots in general. Some people use chisels, some use a flat blade knife, Some use end nippers. They all work but the advantage of the string bleeder is because of the large cross section on blade, the hole stays open a bit to feed the tag end through. Making bleed knots in 1.5 inch leather is going to come down to a chisel or slot punch/bag punch as the choice for the best and cleanest results. What length to use will depend on the temper of the leather and how easily it will spread and "roll". It will take some trial and error to figure the length of the slit and make it look good.

You can say their names. Vince and David are two of the real bright spots in the entire leather industry. They are the first people and usually the last I see at any leather show. They come early to supply whatever machines are needed for classes at the shows besides being venders. They weren't in business yet when I bought my first machines, but were sure the only consideration when I bought the last three. BTW, Vincent is the king of sewing machine Jenga. While I was packing my booth he and a helper broke down the three machines and had the machine heads, stand parts, and parts boxes interlocked in the back seat of my truck with no rattling for 700 miles of rough highway.

Yes he does. The Ron's Montana edgers have narrower toes, cut a rounded profile, and good for thinner leather. Five sizes and we stock and sell them all. I also have the Ron's round edgers that are designed for heavier leather in a few sizes. I started off with the sizes a shop needs at a minimum and will be adding more sizes of the round edgers as he gets them finished.

The man you need to get to know well is Eli Schlabach at Landis Machine Co in McLeansboro, IL. Phone number is 217 543-3464. Eli rebuilds stitchers and big stuff and has some 16 parts. I sent him some parts for other stuff a few weeks ago so I know the phone number is good. Before I bought a 16 that hasn't run in 17 years, I would talk to Eli first.

Since the auction deal got brought up, here are my auction thoughts. Actually this is an excerpt from a draft part of an article I am working on. This isn't all necessarily directed at anyone, but hopefully some things you all can consider. I buy privately and through auctions. Privately it is usually a "take it all" deal or "everything but machines". I love auctions on one hand because I don't have to buy it all. I don't have to pack out a box of screwdrivers, pliers, and claw hammers because it is part of the shop. That is the auction buyer's advantage - cherry picking. I can pick and choose. I get to a few auctions. I have a buyer at many of the other auctions I can't get to. They have my full support and know the ranges I will pay. Some days my phone is blown up. The auctioneers that deal with these kinds of tools and equipement routinely are somewhat regional (and some are Amish). The owner (you) ends up with travel expenses and lodging for the auctioneer and crew if they come to you. The promotion generally consists of an ad or two in Illume magazine (used to be ShopTalk). Some social media advertising. Maybe the Plain Dealer if that still exists or Ag newspapers. Those expenses are yours in some form. Some auctions might still be 10% commission on larger ticket items like machines (like two or three of the machines in this thread), 20% on the rest and smalls is pretty common. Some charge low commission percentages but then add on a buyer's premium. That is a percentage the buyer pays and most buyers figure that in when they set a top bid they are willing to pay. They bid less in total because of it, you get less in the end, and the auctioneer gets the bigger cut they need for expenses and services. 15% buyers premiums are not unusual. No sour grapes, my son is an auctioneer and premiums are just how they have to do some auctions to cover expenses while getting a decent return for the seller. Picking a local general auctioneer? It might be OK but I have seen some real train wrecks. Poor promotion, poor sorting and presentation, poor knowledge of products, and no idea of values so bids start at a bad spot. If they have someone to help with a knowledge of them, that covers some mistakes. Live auction. If I get on the airplane/rent a car/ship purchases home or drive 12 hours - personally I need to have plenty to look at. Otherwise I'll have somebody I know already going or hear about it later. Bidders at an estate or retirement auction - bid like a buyer, not a bargain hunter. Be fair, this a fund raiser in the form of selling out a livelihood. If you hold up five fingers on something that should bring a hundred, don't be mad when I bid $75 next bid. The auctioneer doesn't want to run it $5 at a time to reach the hundred and probably doesn't need the practice. They appreciate a fair bid, three or four more advances, and sold. On-line auction or live auction/on-line bidding - some local auctioneers are set up for it and run it well, some aren't. Some are legit and honest, some aren't and will run up an absentee, phone, or on-line bidder during a live auction with that option. If I don't know them by reputation or someone I trust's experience, I don't bid. Also I want to know the other charges like shipping and handling up front. If they charge a set fee per lot and then take it to the UPS Store to pack and ship - I'm out. I don't begrudge anyone the charges for reasonable packing and shipping costs. If you are charging $10 per lot packing fee to drop 3 groups of 5 handled tools into a flat rate box with no padding, that's $30 plus the flat rate cost. Again, I'm a watcher not a bidder. I like the on-line auctions but I want these previous concerns addressed before I click the first bid.

This is always tough. Some of the machines may have a local market value and some won’t. Once you get out of that local sphere shipping costs go way up and offering prices go down. The hand tools ship easily and you’ve got some good ones and some wall hanger only ones. Once you get some space cleared then I’d recommend sorting by maker and type. That will be the best way for buyers. It’s good you aren’t on a tight time frame! Some of these estate sets have to be out of a building in a month or two and those are tough. ideally selling as a unit or large groups is easier but at the expense of less money. Selling in small groups or individually tends to bring a more true value but you will end up with stuff that nobody wants. I’ve seen it down both ways and sometimes the buyer wins and some times the seller wins.

I just sold one on my website Saturday. I believe I’ve got another copy. I add tools for sale nearly everyday and usually do books and pattern packs on Saturdays.

In a word - no. The top roller and shaft is one piece. Cast and then machined. This is a 100 year old or more piece and finding anything modern that will match up and mesh with the bottom roll and match diameters - unlikely. I hear you on the day job. Down to about 7 months to go and my tool gig will be full time.

Tonight I have added 8 Don King stamps for sale on my website. These stamps are duplicates for us and friends I trade with. It is pretty rare that his stamps come up for open sale. Background - Don King is generally credited with refining the Sheridan Style of leather craving and influenced many carvers who further progressed with it. He was also a great stamp maker. If you have been to Sheridan and visited the Don King Museum, then you know. I have a large collection of them that I have used and now Ms Rundi uses. Pretty much everything she makes seems to have a Don King stamp on it. These stamps are meant to be used, not stuck in a drawer. For more details please check them out at - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/recently-added Thank you! - Bruce

That was my guess too but then when I read about taking it apart, that made me wonder. I’ve had people ask me about swapping out the full rollers at times too. Some think that the top and bottom rollers are just slid on a separate shaft.

Do you mean putting a single wheel on the end or swapping out the rollers?

Numbers don’t mean much between makers and some makers have a different numbering system for different types of edgers they make. I’ve got round profile edgers that go to 3/16” inch of cut. I have new edgers from Ron’s Tools and refurbished from a few makers. Here is a link - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/products/hand-tools/edgers

I was in a shop a few years ago that he had a good setup. Cut about a two inch square in the top over the utility drawer and used that for thread ends. He had a few machines and kept small stuff and needles in a parts drawer organizer and screwdrivers in a tool rack.

Sold one a short while ago for $300 but I don’t seek them out. Going to say, the Weavers are OK but bulky for what they do. If you are set on a Weaver I understand. I’ve had a couple Cobra’s through here and my wife and nephew both have them too. The Cobras do the same thing with the advantage of variable speed. They also can go on a stand and not take up a bunch of table of bench space. Also the Cobra is half the cost.

At the Pendleton Leather Show Toby Yoder and I discussed me carrying his tools for sale on my website. It works for me because some of the older tools are getting less common to find in the sizes that makers need. The discussion came together, the latest shipment arrived yesterday, and I have added them all to the website today. I have a dedicated page of the Ron's Tools now and they are also listed throughout the website in the appropriate pages by tool type. Ron's Tools has a long history of quality tools. I bought my first good edger from Ron Edmonds almost 30 years ago, and I have been a user ever since. When Ron retired and sold the business to Toby he has carried on the same quality and craftsmanship. These are just plain good ones. We are starting with Montana edgers, round edgers, French edgers, cantle binding trimmers, free hand groovers, and gouges. We will be adding more sizes to the lineup as well. You can check them out at https://brucejohnsonleather.com/new-tools/rons-tools Thank you for your consideration, - Bruce

Yesterday I added a page to my website of leather related instructional books and pattern packs. I had a bit of a feeding frenzy after my email and social media posts and a lot of the initial postings sold but we still have some good stuff left. This will be an ongoing page with regular additions of more materials - some vintage and some relatively new. Please check it out at https://brucejohnsonleather.com/products/books-and-patterns-1 For more updates please consider signing up for the email notification list on my website or follow on Facebook or Instagram. Thank you, Bruce

It is hard to make a generalization about the two styles of skivers you have. These designs have been around for a long time. I could get both styles of the originals to work. I modified several. On the silver skiver I bent the handle up on one to reach some areas I couldn't otherwise. On the black skivers I bent the ends to different arcs. There are some great tools coming from the Asian countries, and on the other hand - some cheap knockoffs that aren't made to function correctly. I haven't had any of the Amazon skiver versions through here that I've used but here is my thoughts. If these are made so the blade angle is too steep, they will dive down and dig too much. If the blade edge is tipped up then the leather rides under the cutting edge. There is a sweet spot for angle and you may need to tip the handle one way or the other to find it. The other thing is to make sure there isn't something on the frame on the bottom in front of the blade edge that prevents the blade from contacting the leather. Too thick and the blade can't meet the leather. The other issue is blades. I get some Import tools with supplied blades that are "universal blades", the cutting edge is about as sharp as the back edge (dull, dull, dull). Gripping them with a visegrips and buffing makes a big difference. Option B - order some good blades. Good quality blades make a difference.