bruce johnson

Stephanie, My first recommendation is ... I will give you the $150 you have in it and not even ask for the barrel it is in. Second recommendation is that this saddle is 80 years old from one of the most respected saddleries of the time, be careful. Is Antone Soares the original buyer from Hamley's? Antone is a fairly common Portugese first name, and Soares is a real common Portugese last name. Lots of Portugese in this area. The Livermore valley is the next valley over from me, and it was a real cowtown at one time. Still a lot of cattle wintered on the hill pastures over there. The Rowell saddlery in Hayward was over there too. I just got in a "grandpa's Rowell" to restore. I would really suggest you try to find someone to work on restoring this saddle with. It just has too much age and experience on it to be a learner. There are other ones to learn on out there. Bruce Johnson

Ed, In my experience EdgeCoat works better on edges that aren't real slick. It is basically a paint, and sticks to a slightly rough surface better than a slicked one. A friend used to do a lot of craftshows, and he never did anything to the edges but apply edge coat. Never rubbed the first one. He applied it with a sponge brush and wiped it the spill over off the top and bottom with a clean damp sponge. When the edge was almost dry, he took a damp sponge down the edge the "slick" it down. He used it on chrome tanned edges and latigo dog collars as well. He was the one who used an acrylic finish (Future floor wax) mixed with dye pigments. Not sure where he was getting his pigments. Bruce Johnson

Stephanie, Can you see me writhing in agony at the thought of an old Hamley (with provenance, no less) sitting in pieces in a barrel?? Please take good care of it. One thing to consider with fixing up these old relics. Most of the trees they were built on are not sized or shaped to fit modern horses. General recommendation is to fix them up as a restoration, not necessarily to be a "user". Be careful how you restore these. Just like on Antiques Roadshow, some well-intentioned restorations can seriously lessen the value of some of these old treasures. How old is the Hamley? Bruce Johnson

Ed, Yes and no. Sometimes I use spit, but run out on a big project. I kind of like gum trag but always had issues applying it to big pieces. If I use a sponge I can get a good 3-6", and then have to reapply to the sponge. That old "apply with your finger to the edge" advice - even less coverage. I finally hit on using another item I had sitting. I had one of the Heritage II dye boxes from Weaver that I got a deal on. There are some design issues with it for dyeing, but it makes a dandy application system for the gum trag. Constant flow of the proper amount of gum trag, no cleanup, I just cap it and leave it full. I know the finish you are referring to. It is an acrylic based edge finish. Similar to the edge coat the Fiebings makes. I have heard of mixing dye pigments into neutral acrylic finishes and using that. Haven't tried it though, I am either a basic black or no dye edge guy. Bruce Johnson

Stephanie, Please do post some pictures. I really like this sort of thing. I have several references, and have access to some other guys who have forgotten more about old gear than I will ever hope to know. I have one of those who-made-this-saddle puzzles sitting in my living room. Bruce Johnson

Standard warning for any power tools also. Once the punch tube begins to fill with punchings, it will eject them with some force in random directions as the punch spins. 1.Wear eye protection and keep bystanders away. 2.Watch loose clothing. Let's be safe out there. Injuries should be reserved for something cool like being bit by a shark while scuba diving, slipping on a wet rock while flyfishing, or getting bucked off after a great ride. The story just doesn't have the same ring when you have to explain you got hurt punching a hole in some leather or you tripped on a sidewalk. Bruce Johnson

Oscar, I really like the figure carving, you have the basics to get the floral just as good. Things to work on. 1. Bevel all around major elements like flowers and leaves. They need to stand alone, and the best way is to use steep bevelers all around them to set them off, especially where the stickers run under a flower. 2. Bring the sticker cuts further down the vines. 3. I prefer floral center stamps, and bevel around the centers. 4. I like to make a "break" at the joint of a leaf and stem. I usually use a seeder. 5. I use a small mulefoot to end some cuts where the stickers end on a vine. I use a larger and wider mulefoot to tie some elements and stemwork together. These are the things that jump out at me, but like I said at the start, with your figure carving ability, these will come come quickly. Hope this helps. Bruce Johnson

Ed, I looked into the Scharfix paring machine a while back. I want to say the price was about $400 (?) at one place. I talked to the seller who just used it for bookbinding, and she thought that the capacity was only about 6 oz, and indicated that it sometimes bunched up with 4 oz leather for her. Artisan and Ferdco both have a motorized skiver that is going for about $1200. I am kind of leaning that way, but am not in any hurry. Will look at them at the tradeshows, and play with one first. Bruce Johnson

Ed, I got this tip off another group I am on a couple years ago. I bought a few sets of the mini and maxi punches, and keep the handles set up with the common sizes I use. I just chuck them into drill press, turn it on, and punch away. I use a small piece of cutting board to back up the punch on the work table. The rotation of the punch makes it go through easier, they also don't stick or deforrm the holes in wet leather. I hit very very few punches now. Bruce Johnson

Bruce, I have gotten elephant from a couple places, never tried shark but I am sure they have it. First off is Jerry VanAmburg at Van Amburg Leather. He advertises in LCSJ and ShopTalk too I think. Website is www.vanamburgleathers.com. He's cool to deal with. Just looked at his site and he does have shark. The other source is GH Leather in Houston. I don't have a website or contact info, but they come up with a business listing on a google search. I bought a panel of elephant from them last year at Sheridan. Seems like a lot of boot and handbag people make up most of their trade. My wife fell in love with some shrunken grain water buffalo calf they had. Made a very cool purse leather. Sheridan Leather Outfitters also carry a lot of exotics. They are easy to deal with too. Bruce Johnson

Mike, My best piece of granite is a broken headstone. I am using the bottom surface. It is not polished like the top. They gave me the piece, and told me if I wanted it polished, they could do it for something like $15. Decided to see how it was as is. I like it better than my other rocks, pieces don't slide around as easily on it from little incidental movements or hitting stamps when tipped for partial impressions. If the pits aren't too bad, I would try it first. I have stamped on chipped marble slabs that were provided at a couple classes, they will give erratic results if you are not having full contact under the stamp. One thing for sure, you will like bigger slab, especially if it is a least 2-1/2" or better. Bruce Johnson

Ed, I would avoid the magnetic base lube pots. They don't stay in place, tip over, and are a pain. I think Art said on another list that he has the same experience. I get a color called "peasant" from Ferdco that sure could pass for deer/tan/waxed linen color. I can usually get 1-2 day shipping from them to me. Your price is typical I think. Thread lube is all over the scale. Ferdco told me that any good leather conditioner like Lexol will work. That's what I have used for a few years with no problems, and if I run low - the feed store has it! Weavers have a couple brands I think, Campbells have theirs too. Bruce Johnson

Stphanie, Another source for this video is www.gibsonprorodeo.com. The business is run by Bruce Gibson, a frequent and good contributor to this forum. It is a pretty good video, showing my age sorry, it is on DVD now. Comes with a set of patterns. I think Bruce has all the Pleasant Valley videos, and can fit you for a pretty good bullrope if you decide to make rodeo chaps and take a walk on the wild side. From the other Bruce, Bruce Johnson

Ed, This was my biggest sewing problem switching over from the Adler to the 2000. The 205 Adler I had was a upper/lower needle feed, and there was no lower needle guide or center presser foot. That was a problem with needle deflection on the heavy layers, but allowed stitching precisely because you could see the corners and the needle tip. My 2000 has a little groove filed into the front of the center presser foot as a guide spot to look at. I don't think some of the other machines have that. It helps on keeping lines straight. On corners I have to bend down and eyeball the needle as it falls. I can see where the needle is entering the leather then. Kind of a hassle, but the lack of skipped stitches and even stitches on the back side more than makes up for it. I had asked about filing a slot open to see the needle for precise stitching projects. Was given the big thumbs down by Ferdco. Since it was their machine, under their warranty, and I am sure someone else has tried it, I took them at their word. Bruce Johnson

Regis, Clay is dead on about the leather being stretchier, and being an advantage in those places. I really kind of like deep necks on my sides. I look on it as another premium part of the side. If you orient the pattern right, things you normally would fold like a notebook or photoalbum are great cut from these places. Orient it so the folds in the notebook are parallel with the folds in the side. Then if the grain is a little too open (heavy hair cells, wrinkles, or whatever), slick it down. To slick it I use a piece of rounded over plastic cutting board, but you can buy commercial blockers or slickers. Just dampen the leather (I slather on some white saddle soap with a wet sponge) and rub firmly over the leather to compress the fibers. The leather should be wet enough not to burnish, and wet top to bottom to evenly compress. When folded the slightly looser fibers will fold easier than a denser part of the hide like the back or butt. I just finished up 25 wine list covers (3 ring binder notebook type) for a restaurant. The ones I cut out of the necks folded the best and stay the smoothest when opened flat. The denser parts has to be stretched slightly to close well, and wrinkle a bit at the fold areas when opened flat. I wish I could have used all necks, but economics rule - had to use some of those darn backs and butts too. Bruce Johnson

Ed, Ummmm, don't know. I used my Adler for 5 years and never retimed it. Have had the 2000 for almost a year and ditto. I guess it would depend on if anything happens like a severe needle jam into the bottom feed dog, or some other mechanical thing to knock it out of timing.On the Adler I broke a few needles on the feed dog, and bent/broke a couple dogs too, but still sewed like a champ once those were swapped out. I oil religiously with a mix of hydraulic jack oil and Prolong oil additive (from the auto parts section). Ferdco told me to use that mix. Every so often I clean with Ballistol. Take the hook out and clean the little grunge things that collect in there and in the race. There are some grease places under the face plate for once a year maintenance on the 2000 I think. We should probably move this over to the sewing machine section, maybe Johanna or Art can do that. Have a good one. Bruce Johnson

Pella, Me again! My favorites early on were the Osborne #127 edgers. Came pretty sharp usually, held an edge Ok, but sharpened up fairly easily - left a squared cut. I got some of Ron's edgers (www.Ronstools.com) in a deal. They were very nice - left a round cut, but a guy made me a ridiculous offer (more than new) and he owns them. Now all I use are Horseshoe Brand tool edgers from Jeremiah Watt. I have the set of round bottom edgers and both of the Vizzard pattern edgers (along with some of his French edgers). The edgers all leave a round cut. His website is www.ranch2arena.com. Jeremiah's edgers (all his cutting tools actually) are sharp when you get them, hold an edge well and sharpen up. I have used the snot out of them and never had to do anything but strop. These edgers sell for about $45 each. Half the cost of Ron's, and I think very comparable. Word of caution, the larger sizes of Jeremiah's edgers (#3 and #4) are pretty big, good for skirts and horns. Bruce Johnson

Pella, I thought it was just me. Weaver's nylon was what I threw away. I couldn't get it to sew very well on anything. The bonding was not very good and the thread untwisted and caught up on the hook a lot, the needle speared the bobbin thread, and strands fell off the bottom of the spool and wound around the thread stand. To top it off I ordered a spool of 346 for the top and 277 for the bottom. They were two different shades of brown. One was chestnut, the other a tannish color. I talked to Vernon Weaver about something else and mentioned it. He laughed and said that at least they both were brown, not all customers get that lucky! Gotta like his sense of humor. Vernon is a pretty good source of info on machines too. Bruce Johnson

Clay, Happy Birthday from Rundi and me. :pepsi: or :beer: Keep warm, dry, and enjoy! Forty six, huh? That's a popular age (me too for another few months). Bruce Johnson

Pella, In a nutshell, nylon has more stretch than poly thread. Some nylons have more stretch than others too. I started with nylon in my Boss. When I got the first powered machine, it came with poly and poly was recommended by the seller for their machines. I started using it in the Boss too. I ran out of the poly, and went back to some nylon left overs, more skips and twisting than the poly in the powered machines. Was cheaper to just throw away the nylon after that than be tempted to use it up. I am sure not all polys are the same, but what I use is Coats. Bruce Johnson

Ed, The Pro 2000 wheels pretty easily. The only thing I have to compare to was my Adler, and it was about the same. There is no big deal going from hand wheeling to motor and back. I have a Ferdco 1245 too, and it wheels maybe a little easier. It may just be that on the bigger machines, we are moving more mechanics. I only had the 440 for about a week so I can't even remember how it was. It was just too rough on the backside of my projects. I traded the 440 head for the Adler. Bruce Johnson

Ed, I have had my Pro 2000 for about a year now, so we may have the same set up. Mine has the servo motor - no noise when turned on until you step on the pedal. I also started off with a 440 (Baby Bull) several years ago, and used that same table and motor for my Adler. It was the clutch motor set up until I swapped that motor out for the servo. The servos I have behave just like the clutch motors as far as releasing the machine with a slight pedal pressure, they just give me much more control when engaged. Unless we have radically different motors on our big stitchers, mine releases just like the old clutch motors did. Bruce Johnson

Ed, The thing about them not backstitching or only going back one stitch is the reason I hate family gatherings. Not really, but it always seems that someone has this little Coach whatever that the stitching has come loose, can I fix it? Usally they use such small thread I can't match it and kind of blow it off. I usually backstitch 3-5 stitches or oversew the same. I have tried a few of the thread burners and just cutting. Probably as good a place as any to share the results. 1. Just cutting short with thread snips. usually a tag end, may or may not pull through. What I mostly do on thicker leather. 2. The thread burners that ShopTalk sells. These are battery operated cautery (for surgery) devices. I have used these for field and eye surgery because of the pinpoint tip and the portability. As thread burners - they cut the thread cleanly, and the thin tip can burn the thread off in the needle hole. The tips are very flexible and bend easily. They cut thread clean, and do not leave a knob on the end. Heat up quickly. 3. Wood burning or soldering pen. - These burn threads and generally melt a small knob onto the tip. This resists pull-through. I have found the rounded tips melt the thread down into the needle hole and leave a fairly smooth feel. You can almost weld the tag to the other threads and lock everything. My favorite for a smooth look. Longer to heat up. 4. burn with a match or candle - scorches leather and leaves a globby knob. rougher feel.

Ed, The speed reducer should have nothig to do with it. I handwheel by just barely pressing on the pedal to free the motor. Otherwise you are fighting a clutch with a clutch motor or whatever holds the motor with the servo motors. Even with my motor on, by pressing a little I can free the shaft without engaging the motor. The servo motor definitely gives me more slow control, and I have to fight the urge to reach up and handwheel the machine when I would have had to when using the clutch motors. Bruce Johnson

Jack, I have to agree with you on a few levels. I liked your last line about handsewing is great only if you don't own a sewing machine. From experience, there is nothing romantic about handsewing 20 checkbooks on a Sunday. I could hardly lift my arms to dial the phone Monday morning to order the Boss. "Did I want 2nd day air? YES!!!" I had zero experience with sewing on a machine before, but knew it was time to nod my head or go home. When I went from one inch per minute to one foot per minute, I knew I was right. The Boss and the mechanics taught me how they are supposed to work properly, and being able to cycle it by hand and watch the stitch cycle taught me how to troubleshoot when something wasn't quite right. That was several years ago, but the lessons remain. Biggest lesson, when something changes - always change out needles first. Figuring out what a machine can and can't do directly aided when I moved up to powered machines. I don't think I would have had as good a handle on the powered machines, and which one(s) to buy, had I not bought the Boss first. I knew what capacity machine I needed, not what price machine I wanted to pay. Bruce Johnson