bruce johnson

FWIW, I don't have a 000 tube to check. If the revolving punches have sizes you'd use, I'd get both. I'd have the spring punch set up for the 000, and the revolving punch for the others. That would save the hassle of changing tubes all the time with just the spring punch.

I have one, have seen a few others. Very pretty, nice for light burnishing and setting in folds.

Agate tipped burnisher. Pretty cool, aren't they?

Bill Buchmann

Bill Buchmann

Mike, This very well could be new and the gibs are different than the replacement ones. If it is new I seriously doubt switching the gibs will make a difference. It was parted together, stuck in a box, and sent on. If the seller doesn't get back to you, I'd work on the rear gib to tune it and get the blade and handle parallel. One thing that will help after that is sharpening the blade. They aren't close to being sharp enough new.

Mike, Is it new or old? The gibs look new, but an old style. The nice thing about having gibs front and back of the beam is you can tune these pretty easily. If it is old, first thing I'd suggest is taking the rear gib out and switching it end for end. When they went to the cast models (and Henry Ford's technique of interchangeable parts) some of the handles and beams didn't always mate up to be 100% true. The gib could have a little more taken down on one side vs, the other and correct that discrepancy (like a shim). If that gib gets replaced or even reversed along the way, they don't line up. If it makes no difference to switch ends then one side will need to be taken down. some wet-dry sandpaper on a flat surface and leaning to the one side will take one end lower. It usually doesn't take much. Final little note, don't totally trust the longer lines on the scale for lining things up. The blade slot is what is important. check how parallel the blade is vs. the side of the handle. I have seen them recent and old with the slot slightly off vs. the scale marks, but true with the handle. That is what makes them work. Hope this helps.

The circular welt knife has just a bit of a gap that allows you to control how deep you cut. I use it trim oversize linings or layers to true up the edge. Most of them can look pretty rough but clean up and if you don't cook the blade sharpening have a good lasting edge. The last tool looks like the end of a carriage with a guide. If there is a threaded cap on the handle end, there may be more wheels in there.

I have added four leather splitters to my website today - two Chase pattern and two Osborne #86s. I have also put on knives from HF Osborne, CS Osborne, Blanchard, and two unmarked knives. There are more CS Osborne round bottom French edgers and filled in a few Gomph sizes recently sold out too. Here is the link to the landing page for the tools - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/ . Thank you, Bruce

#2 is a circular welt knife I use them to true up edges sometimes, fun tool and plenty safe.. #3 is a fudge wheel. #4 and #5 are irons - used to slick. #7 looks like a peg float/rasp. rasps down shoe pegs. #9 looks like a saw wrest - unrelated to leather. The scraper and drill are woodworking tools but still could have been used for some applications in leather work.

Chris, The knives and punches I have handled are overall better than the new Osbornes, They are finished better and sharper out of the box. Still not 100% sharp, but closer.

It looks like what I have heard called "mossed back" or "pasted back" leather. It is a coating that has been applied to the flesh side. I got a couple several years ago, The coating was a little sticky when it got wet, but then dried slick again.

Rick, I sure do know Christine. she was on the museum board with me. We see her around quite a bit, although mostly at the post office lately. - Bruce

Where at in Norcal? Also, the return key doesn't work for me either.

I strip my sides the length of the side and generally use two sides.I have them measure and send me the longest sides they have. I cut two wide blocks, level them, then glue them flesh to flesh. I strip them to width, slip in a popper, and sew them.

Are you not able to get it sharp to begin with, or is it just not staying sharp? Are you getting to where you are raising a bur? It can be tough to get that top side stropped off. I use a piece of firm skirting cut edge-wise at an angle. I tighten it in a vise and then use that to strop into the corners on top. Have you looked at it under magnification to see what the edge is looking like, any grit pattern, etc? Sorry for all the questions but that will help lead me toward an answer. .

Great work Bret. The work from you and Shawn really complements each other!

I just sold a set of the 17 recommended stamps that Barry King put together for a guy. Other than maybe splitting the difference and using a 5 rather than a 3 and 7 hole bargrounder I thought they all served a purpose and would do a compete traditional Sheridan pattern.

It has been a busy little week here catching up, and I have added several fresh leather tools today. Knives – A nice Gomph round knife – really clean and good one Hammers and Pliers – Super clean Osborne #55 saddlers hammer and Osborne cantle pliers. Both have had the sharp factory edges softened to reduce chatter marking. French edgers – A really good #6 Gomph, several marked older McMillen and some unmarked newer ones, plus quite a few unmarked French edgers that are good users. Miscellaneous page – two good CS Osborne rein rounders – one is the best I have seen. There are some blunt tip lace pulling awls and saddler compass/dividers. I have filled in a few sizes of round end punches (nice 2”), edge bevelers, pricking wheels, and overstitchers too. If you care to sew 18 to the inch, I'm your huckleberry - 2 #18 pricking wheels for sale. Here is the link to the index page for tools on my website - http://brucejohnsonl...tools_for_sale/ . Thanks, Bruce

I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move - like around saddle horns and leather covered stirrup. I have had some cracking problems on edges of photo albums. Is the bone glue edge flexible? Also note to Tor - I received the special formula Scandinavian saddle soap yesterday.

I still groove. It gives you a target to keep the stitches in line. This is even more important in a turned seam than a regular seam. If one stitch is higher it will take more stress and also be pretty obvious. An overstitcher with strong points or a pricking wheel will mark stitches well enough to feel or see.

Sam. That S-119 is the finer line of his two leaf liners. Sorry, Bruce

I have added a few fresh tools on my website today. There is a mix of miscellaneous Barry King stamps, a nice Wayne Jueschke flower center, and few new basket stamps. I also put on an unsued Sheridan tooling set - 17 of Barry King's stamps sized for small and medium sized patterns, maul, slicker, Leather Wrangler swivel knife, and the two best tooling books out there - the Sheridan style book and Bob Park's pattern drawing book. Here is a link - Stamps for Sale . Thanks, Bruce

Pretty sure I have a 1" round arch punch for sale. Price on it would be $20 plus shipping.

I have had some with the same marking. The handles are suggestive of a European maker. Ropp might have been the maker.