bruce johnson

I just checked four pretty good blades off #86s and here'e what they measure - These are all 1-3/4" measured on the bottom front to back so pretty close to or are original. The thickness of the stock at the back measures between 0.380 and 0.40. The blade angles are all 16-17 degrees. Two are slightly hollow ground - less than 1/16" at the belly against a straight edge on one. the other is a gnats whisker off flat, two are flat ground. One of the flat grinds is a Disston.

I have added quite a few nice hand tools to my website this morning. There are several #6 overstitchers which have been harder to keep on hand lately along with others in the 5 to 8 size range. Some nice French edgers in the wider sizes along with a lot of good Gomph round bottom edge bevelers in the smaller sizes. I also put on several nice sttich groovers in the compass and freehand styles. here is the link to the index page for the tools - Leather Tools For Sale Thanks, Bruce

If it was red or orange probably a Luberto Classic.

I might as well shoot the moon. If that 1/2" body isn't spoken for, it is now.

Good looking work - again.

Jeremy, I do have quite a few round drive punches - mostly in the middle sizes. As it turns out, my shop helper cleaned up several single tube frame punches today and they were waiting for me when I got in. They have sharpened new tubes in them, punched off about 20 holes each, and are fresh on my website tonight on the concho, slot, and hole punch page. Thanks, Bruce

I use either round drive punches or single tube frame punches. On the rotary punches you will see that the tube will enter the leather at a slight angle, and the thicker the leather the more the angle. Some of them will tend to roll out as you squeeze and make things worse. The single tube frame punches (aka squeeze punches, spring punches, handle punches, plier punches, etc) have a wider gap usually and will enter the leather a lot more squarely. The punch tubes themselves can also be replaced. The round drive punches work well too, and you aren't limited by the reach of the frame or rotary punch.

It must be strap cutting season. Updating the numbers here on the cast metal handle draw gauges. I am down to 8 of the Harrison marked ones and about 15 of the Newarks. Two days ago there were about 25 of each. Thanks to all who have bought so far. If you are thinking about getting one, they are moving pretty fast. Thank you, Bruce

I have added quite a few draw gauges to my website today, like about 50 fresh ones (at least). There are several Latta pattern (twist handle adjustments) from HF and CO Osborne. There are some new CS Osborne yellow and red brass framed ones with inlay handles, and a bunch of overlay handed models too. I have a part time shop helper now and he took on the cast metal handle Osbornes. They have all been cleaned and the handles repainted. There are enough of them and they are so similar we are not indivually listing each one. They will be sold from stock sorted out by the Newark marked vs Harrison marked bars. All of these gauges come complete - both gibs are there and a new blade that I have sharpened. Here is the link to the strap cutting tool page - Draw Gauges for Sale . Thanks, Bruce

You have some really nice tools there. Even slightly out of focus looks like some Gomphs and older Osbornes, along with some newer tools. There are several tools there that would individually double your money. One word of caution, that wood handled round end strap punch was never intended to be hit with anything. They are hand tools. They are sharpened to the point of being knife sharp and rocked back through the strap to cut it.

Might go on a "round breaker" that starts the fold for rounded straps.

And since my ears are burning...... here's the update and game plan. Plough gauges are up next as of tomorrow on my semi-sabbatical from leather tooling in favor of leather tools. I have a few plough gauges on my website right now and several more to work up. I will have another 15 or so pretty soon. Mostly Blanchards with some Dixons and a Brindley or two. Draw gauges? There are about 45 more ready, just need to get pictures, descriptions, and get them onto the site. They range from cast metal handles to brass and rosewood infill models. One prize winning suggested ad line described my gauges as "They range from bare knuckle bruisers to good-lookers-yet-users".

Martin, Thank you, NOW that makes sense! And now one other question. Who is the maker of the plough gauge with the tassle looking logo on the bar? I have or had one and don't know. Thank you, Bruce

Make them separate. On a lot of horses there can be +/- 1inch gap.

Pretty much the punches on the site are the ones I am selling. The exception is round drive punches. They move in and out a lot, and hard to keep them all current. For sizes it is just easier to email with what sizes a person is looking for. I have them sorted by size in drawers. The hardest to find and keep are the very small and very large sizes. Usually I from 4 through 10 easy enough. The others are just hit and miss.

I don't have the video, but have three rein rounders for sale right now. Here's a link - Rein Rounders For Sale

I just added some round end and a few English points to my website today - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/ . It should be current as of now. Several were bought within about 5 minutes, but still have them from 1/2" up to 1-1/2".

Last updates for the week. I added several punches today. There's quite a few slot/bag punches, strap end punches, and few scalloping punches.

The narrow French edger is #520. The two narrowest Dixon edge shaves are #697 and #1335. Thanks! Bruce

Sorry, I missed this. They are on my website in the tools for sale section. The French edger is on the French Edgers and Gouges page, the edge shaves are near the bottom of the Edge Beveler page. Bruce

Twice in a week seems like a record, but I have added more fresh leather tools to my website today. Today's additions are a nice unmarked round knife, edge bevelers, French edgers, and a few creasers including two pretty double ended creasers. In the miscellaneous page we have a couple of ferocious looking straining forks, a rosewood spoke shave, some sewing palms, and a few pliers. There are quite a few fresh channelers from users to rare and unusuals on the stitch groover page and again on the shoe tool page. Also on the shoe tool page are two pretty cool folding foot measuring sticks. Thanks all! Bruce

I prestretch my leathers. They stay more even. I get them sloppy wet and when they are closer to dry, I run a slicker over then and then screw one end to a board. I take spikes and lever the other end until they don't stretch anymore and screw that end down. Some guys stick a can under them to really get them tight. Once I have the fenders done and the leathers on, I wet them again. When everything is about casing wet, I set the twist and stretch the fender and leather together. You can do this on a stretcher or a tree on your drawdown. On the drawdown run a post through the stirrups and use the bar to put pressure on it, hang a anvil, or something like that. That sets the twist and makes a new ride a lot easier.

I have added several tools to my website this evening. There are some good Rose and Gomph knives, along with Osbornes (HF and CS), plus a Harrington. There are also some overstichers and pricking wheels, and box carriages - two with a bunch of wheels. Here is the link to the index page for my tools - Bruce Johnson Leather Tools for Sale . Thanks, Bruce

It looks to be what is listed as a belt trimmer in the catalog photocopy I have. The pictures are pretty dark and can't see much in the way of details of what might be missing. Dan at Campbell Randall should have some insight. From the catalog you need different rolls and knives for widths and thicknesses.

I would try a very small section first. When you said you had a "whole cow hide" that sent up a flag for me. Upholstery leather is more commonly sold in whole hides. Upholstery leather can also have top treatments to color and finish it. Many of these are a pigmented sprayed on finish. Think of them almost like a paint. That is how they get uniform color and texture. As we know with most leather, different parts of the hide can take dyes differently and have different textures. Putting a pigmented topcoat on and texturing it or smoothing it makes the whole hide look the same. Every section of the couch or car seat will match that way. Some chemicals can dissolve that coating and it will peel off or look ratty.