bruce johnson

Ray, I think that little Hertiage splitter is pretty dandy for lap skiving. I usually have one or two around and I like them for laps. Push forward on the handle as you pull the strap through. Smooth and as simple as doing it on an old Osborne #84.They are kind of awkward for level splitting though. There isn't any locking mechanism to hold the level so you need to hold the handle forward against the stop screw with one hand while you pull with the other. If you are doing a long strap you have to stop and reset your hands every so often. The crown splitter is OK, but I don't know how often many people use them.

Barry King and Jeremiah Watt both have some different block stamps and are going to be under your $80 limit at $50-65.

I use compound action end nippers. The ac tion makes them cut much easier. Osborne makes a decent enough smaller one but if you hunt old antigue stores look for a pair of Schollhorn-Bernard compound action end cutting nippers. I buy them for $5-10 when I see them. Rarely are they worn much.

They ought to be happy with those, I sure am with mine!

I have done a lot of orders that have used that letter set. I will give Ray's suggestion of Sharpies a hearty second. However, I find more control with the ultra fine point Sharpies in the tight spots and do the impressions of the letters themselves. In a pinch I use regular old find 'em at any office supply stores Pentel EnerGel 0.7 mm ball point pens and they stay pretty well. You can also outline the other type of stamped letters with them and fill with fine point Sharpies or dye and brush.

Rob, I did a bunch of those several years ago for a wholesale acct along wioth hackamore hangers too. I had a jig I made up from a stiff strap leather and tacks through it to mark the positions on the slits. a quick roll over the jig with a wall paper wheel and the points transferrred. I bought a cheap set of wood chisels and sharpened them up. I punched the slotsbetween the points with those and it worked well, Someone may be able to make you up a wheel with a chisel point and the spacing, but then you'd be looking at those machining costs plus a crank tool to run it on.

Jeremy, I use 794 needles in mine. The manual is mainly setup and parts with no operating or adjustment specs. Eyeballing mine with a ruler the top of the stroke is 3-1/4" and lowest point is 1-1/16".

Looks like it to me.

I have Ferdco and pretty sure I have a manual that they wrote. I'll check tonight when I get home. I haven't found an exact match for the "peasant" thread they had, my favorite color. I haven't looked all that hard yet though, still working off spools I had stockpiled.

One of the cool things about this forum is the people you run across. I have admired Leatherpownder's braid work from his first postings. I am sure happy to have a set of his reins, small bosal, and another in the works. My wife has kind of been left out until now. I had this necklace pendant made up by Shawn Didyoung and Bret braided the necklace it hangs on. The dark rawhide and contrast from the beveling is super nice. She couldn't be happier.

I ship mostly with Priority Mail as well. I use a lot of recycled packing materials to cut costs. I use UPS for the heavy stuff, I have had a good experience with their insurance for one damaged item. I also use UPS for shipping to a "moving target". I ship some to guys that are traveling. If they aren't where they thought they'd be, I can go on-line and do a re-direct to get it to them without it having to come back to me first to resend. My internationals are all through the mail. I give them the options of Express Mail, regular Priority Mail, and flat rate Priority Mail. The small flat rate boxes aren't tracked once they leave the US. Express Mail usually isn't much more than regular Priority and gets there a lot faster usually.

Alamo, I don't know of anyone who makes them right off. The problem with that is a commercial supplier would have to go through the approval process and royalties probably. It would take a pretty big order to make that even a glimmer of interest for them to consider it. Somebody might have some other insight. I spent 6 years at Purdue. Lived at Shreve for a 1-3/4 years, until a little party deal got out of hand. I lived off campus the rest of the years. Lots of early morning breakfasts at XXX, Friday afternoons at Harry's Chocolate Shop. Sack of doughnuts at the Union. Good times.

I just checked four pretty good blades off #86s and here'e what they measure - These are all 1-3/4" measured on the bottom front to back so pretty close to or are original. The thickness of the stock at the back measures between 0.380 and 0.40. The blade angles are all 16-17 degrees. Two are slightly hollow ground - less than 1/16" at the belly against a straight edge on one. the other is a gnats whisker off flat, two are flat ground. One of the flat grinds is a Disston.

I have added quite a few nice hand tools to my website this morning. There are several #6 overstitchers which have been harder to keep on hand lately along with others in the 5 to 8 size range. Some nice French edgers in the wider sizes along with a lot of good Gomph round bottom edge bevelers in the smaller sizes. I also put on several nice sttich groovers in the compass and freehand styles. here is the link to the index page for the tools - Leather Tools For Sale Thanks, Bruce

If it was red or orange probably a Luberto Classic.

I might as well shoot the moon. If that 1/2" body isn't spoken for, it is now.

Good looking work - again.

Jeremy, I do have quite a few round drive punches - mostly in the middle sizes. As it turns out, my shop helper cleaned up several single tube frame punches today and they were waiting for me when I got in. They have sharpened new tubes in them, punched off about 20 holes each, and are fresh on my website tonight on the concho, slot, and hole punch page. Thanks, Bruce

I use either round drive punches or single tube frame punches. On the rotary punches you will see that the tube will enter the leather at a slight angle, and the thicker the leather the more the angle. Some of them will tend to roll out as you squeeze and make things worse. The single tube frame punches (aka squeeze punches, spring punches, handle punches, plier punches, etc) have a wider gap usually and will enter the leather a lot more squarely. The punch tubes themselves can also be replaced. The round drive punches work well too, and you aren't limited by the reach of the frame or rotary punch.

It must be strap cutting season. Updating the numbers here on the cast metal handle draw gauges. I am down to 8 of the Harrison marked ones and about 15 of the Newarks. Two days ago there were about 25 of each. Thanks to all who have bought so far. If you are thinking about getting one, they are moving pretty fast. Thank you, Bruce

I have added quite a few draw gauges to my website today, like about 50 fresh ones (at least). There are several Latta pattern (twist handle adjustments) from HF and CO Osborne. There are some new CS Osborne yellow and red brass framed ones with inlay handles, and a bunch of overlay handed models too. I have a part time shop helper now and he took on the cast metal handle Osbornes. They have all been cleaned and the handles repainted. There are enough of them and they are so similar we are not indivually listing each one. They will be sold from stock sorted out by the Newark marked vs Harrison marked bars. All of these gauges come complete - both gibs are there and a new blade that I have sharpened. Here is the link to the strap cutting tool page - Draw Gauges for Sale . Thanks, Bruce

You have some really nice tools there. Even slightly out of focus looks like some Gomphs and older Osbornes, along with some newer tools. There are several tools there that would individually double your money. One word of caution, that wood handled round end strap punch was never intended to be hit with anything. They are hand tools. They are sharpened to the point of being knife sharp and rocked back through the strap to cut it.

Might go on a "round breaker" that starts the fold for rounded straps.

And since my ears are burning...... here's the update and game plan. Plough gauges are up next as of tomorrow on my semi-sabbatical from leather tooling in favor of leather tools. I have a few plough gauges on my website right now and several more to work up. I will have another 15 or so pretty soon. Mostly Blanchards with some Dixons and a Brindley or two. Draw gauges? There are about 45 more ready, just need to get pictures, descriptions, and get them onto the site. They range from cast metal handles to brass and rosewood infill models. One prize winning suggested ad line described my gauges as "They range from bare knuckle bruisers to good-lookers-yet-users".

Martin, Thank you, NOW that makes sense! And now one other question. Who is the maker of the plough gauge with the tassle looking logo on the bar? I have or had one and don't know. Thank you, Bruce