bruce johnson

It looks like what I have heard called "mossed back" or "pasted back" leather. It is a coating that has been applied to the flesh side. I got a couple several years ago, The coating was a little sticky when it got wet, but then dried slick again.

Rick, I sure do know Christine. she was on the museum board with me. We see her around quite a bit, although mostly at the post office lately. - Bruce

Where at in Norcal? Also, the return key doesn't work for me either.

I strip my sides the length of the side and generally use two sides.I have them measure and send me the longest sides they have. I cut two wide blocks, level them, then glue them flesh to flesh. I strip them to width, slip in a popper, and sew them.

Are you not able to get it sharp to begin with, or is it just not staying sharp? Are you getting to where you are raising a bur? It can be tough to get that top side stropped off. I use a piece of firm skirting cut edge-wise at an angle. I tighten it in a vise and then use that to strop into the corners on top. Have you looked at it under magnification to see what the edge is looking like, any grit pattern, etc? Sorry for all the questions but that will help lead me toward an answer. .

Great work Bret. The work from you and Shawn really complements each other!

I just sold a set of the 17 recommended stamps that Barry King put together for a guy. Other than maybe splitting the difference and using a 5 rather than a 3 and 7 hole bargrounder I thought they all served a purpose and would do a compete traditional Sheridan pattern.

It has been a busy little week here catching up, and I have added several fresh leather tools today. Knives – A nice Gomph round knife – really clean and good one Hammers and Pliers – Super clean Osborne #55 saddlers hammer and Osborne cantle pliers. Both have had the sharp factory edges softened to reduce chatter marking. French edgers – A really good #6 Gomph, several marked older McMillen and some unmarked newer ones, plus quite a few unmarked French edgers that are good users. Miscellaneous page – two good CS Osborne rein rounders – one is the best I have seen. There are some blunt tip lace pulling awls and saddler compass/dividers. I have filled in a few sizes of round end punches (nice 2”), edge bevelers, pricking wheels, and overstitchers too. If you care to sew 18 to the inch, I'm your huckleberry - 2 #18 pricking wheels for sale. Here is the link to the index page for tools on my website - http://brucejohnsonl...tools_for_sale/ . Thanks, Bruce

I have used diluted Elmer's glue for edges that don't move - like around saddle horns and leather covered stirrup. I have had some cracking problems on edges of photo albums. Is the bone glue edge flexible? Also note to Tor - I received the special formula Scandinavian saddle soap yesterday.

I still groove. It gives you a target to keep the stitches in line. This is even more important in a turned seam than a regular seam. If one stitch is higher it will take more stress and also be pretty obvious. An overstitcher with strong points or a pricking wheel will mark stitches well enough to feel or see.

Sam. That S-119 is the finer line of his two leaf liners. Sorry, Bruce

I have added a few fresh tools on my website today. There is a mix of miscellaneous Barry King stamps, a nice Wayne Jueschke flower center, and few new basket stamps. I also put on an unsued Sheridan tooling set - 17 of Barry King's stamps sized for small and medium sized patterns, maul, slicker, Leather Wrangler swivel knife, and the two best tooling books out there - the Sheridan style book and Bob Park's pattern drawing book. Here is a link - Stamps for Sale . Thanks, Bruce

Pretty sure I have a 1" round arch punch for sale. Price on it would be $20 plus shipping.

I have had some with the same marking. The handles are suggestive of a European maker. Ropp might have been the maker.

Don't worry about how old a thread is - the classics never go out of style! Glad it helped.

Wayne Jueschke, Bob Beard, Hackbarth, Elton Joorisity, Clay Miller off the top of my head. Forgot - Chuck Smith (Ol Smoothie) makes some pretty nice stamps too.

Rich, Much as I'd like to say yes - it didn't do a good job for me. Just not enough pressure to get a good impression. On the cheap I have used a woodworker's vice with good results. I have also used shop press too. If you have access to either, they would be a better choice.

Bret, another nice one there! - Bruce

It could go anywhere there's a hole and a freespinning wheel or gear. My luck is taking them out. I drill out the peen on end and then drive the pin out. With one end smaller than the other, you stand a 50/50 chance of driving them out vs. driving them deeper. My luck runs about 30/70 even though I usually stay at Holiday Inn Express.

Have fun, Every Landis seems to have a surprise. Quite a few tapered pins to hold the wheels to the shaft instead of the keys and slots other makers used. My usual gotcha is that two gears may go on either shaft. When you go to put the gear cover back you realize you transposed them. Bad words are said as you drill out the tapered pins, put new ones, and peen them again.

Welcome Randy!

Gotta say I was pretty pleased this time around. In the past some things slipped through the cracks a bit. When they finished the tool sale web posting and processed my order they called to ask if they could split the heavy stuff off and ship some things UPS and some flat rate priority mail. I asked her to please send me a list of what I got and didn't. She emailed that within an hour. Everything shipped out the next day and received here well packed.

Might be interested. In CA and sent you a message. Thanks,

Another place to check is with your veterinarian or ask for a referral to a local pet cemetery/crematorium. Often times they have some options there for better than standard pet urns that can be special ordered. There are probably some on-line options for ordering also.

Here's what I was taught after I had enough stitch picking under my belt to appreciate it. Take a free hand stitch groover (aka "gum tool" or patent leather tool) and run it over the top of your stitches, An alternative is a loop style blade stitch groover like the Osborne compass groover. You want to either cut off the top of the stitches or severely weaken them. When you start pulling on the wool, the tag ends pull right through and there is little to no stitch picking. My old tool mentor taught me that and just happened to have the tool for sale to do it with. In that vein, I do too. Here's a link to what they look like - patent leather tool .