bruce johnson

Gabrielle, I think Dennis might be in the US right now traveling. I heard from one of his traveling buddies and they might be stopping by here in a couple weeks. They were spending some time in Texas and going to OKC for the TCAA deal and I'd suspect Wichita Falls too.

Adding another here. (Sorry Johanna, but this was the peach shirt phase of the day.) This is a picture of Martin "Boomer" Bergin and me. It was a real special time to BS with him throughout the day.

I would keep shopping. Buy one that works for both of you to start with. Retreeing a saddle is pretty major surgery. You can have the cost of another saddle pretty quick. Especially going from one style to another, not many parts are going to fit. About the only saddles I have retreed are trophy saddles or sentimental favorites.

I do a lot of the style with the attached picture. These hold up well. The body is 6/7, lined with 3/4 usually. The gusset is 4/5 chap leather. The finished dimensions come out to be 6x6x11. The cutting pattern off the top of my head is 11x19. I think the handle is 1x15. I put feet on them to keep them up off the wet counters.

Ryan, I can't help you out much on the sewing machines. The Landis crank splitters in good condition can sell from $400-600 easy enough but some guys get more with a really cherry one. Seems like parts are not that hard to come up with. Pilgrim Shoe has some.

Elton, Good job as usual. Congrats on the new shop too. What are you using for the ring setup? Last two I fixed, the guys wanted slots and bolts instead of the dee and ring. BTW, after your posting of bronc halters a couple years ago, I can't look at my horse and NOT think "swamp donkey". He appreciates that.

Thanks Darcy, I expect I might as well just go shut the lights off in the shop right now. I think I have some quality time coming up with my my laptop screen.

Cowboy, It is fun and a real geography lesson. I just checked mine and need to see where Benin is. This month is a little slow though. Last month was Tuvalu and Moldova. (I had to look them up). I get a pretty good representation of the eastern Europeans most months.

Cowboy, I have not regretted one penny I spent having someone else do most of mine. Johanna and Kate work tirelessly on this forum, but one of their real jobs is web sites. My first site went up last October, and paid for itself the first week. We did an upgrade in June, which basically was a rebuild of the site with a format that I could easily maintain. A lot of the tedious grunt work uploading I could do. That upgrade paid for itself with the first order. I am not particularly computer literate, but knew what I could do and what was more time efficient to pay someone to do.

We make quite a few sets and have our own in use for at least 6 years. Mine have a chap leather body and tooled leather side borders. We have used Leathersheen or Supersheen on them. One good coat sponged on and then 3-5 light applications as things dry. They wipe off well and have held up. We haven't had a problem with the finish cracking either like you might expect.

Wyldflower, I'd second what Darcy posted. Another oldie to look for is Clyde or Shapleigh. I have had one Shapleigh and a few Clydes and they were all good if the blades hadn't pitted. They don't have quite the rep of Rose or some of the oldies and usually don't have the collectible value, so they sell at working tool prices. I've bought a new one from Bob Dozier a year or two ago, and it is a good knife for sure. Pricey, but good. I'll be the first to admit I am not a metal expert, but really like my Dozier (D2 steel). At the Elko show I looked at the knives Lonnie had on his display. I asked about them, and he pulled a box out with a bunch in it. Different handles and blade sizes. When he said Ellis made them from D2, Rundi got excited and I bought a 4" general cutter and 6" to cut long straight runs and skive with. The Gomph stamp on them sure doesn't hurt the value. At $90, they are really worth the dough for me. I figure I am set for life with my knives now.

Interesting little curiosity deal for me here. Some of you know I got a plough gauge a few months ago - Barnsley frame with a Dixon blade. After using it, I really have not picked up a draw gauge since. Being a guy who believes in backup, I just got another plough gauge. This one is a Dixon. When I got it, it is a "T Dixon and Sons". The blade that came on my Barnsley is marked "J Dixon Warranted". The handle on the T Dixon is a little higher angle than the J Dixon. Any idea which Dixon came first? Time period for J Dixon? Which Dixon is still making tools? Thanks.

Some of the best times my son and I shared when he was young was watching Saturday night wrestling. I go back to Bobby Heenan, the Valients, Gagnes, the Hart family, Dick the Bruiser, Baron VonRaschke, Bobo Brazil, and the good ol' days before that. To see Sargeant Slaughter is now wearing Crocs, that just ain't right. Say is isn't so....

Gary, Pretty much 2-1/2" unless a guy really wants 3". Besides breaking in faster, I think they hang up less on latigos for shorter legs. They turn better on twisted leathers and I can have buckles a little lower with the 2-1/2s too.

Ray, A guy has to look pretty hard to find anything bad said about the Pfaff 1245. I have had great service and even better advice from Ferdco, and these forums weren't really around when I started. I have Ferdco's clone of the 1245, and some things are a bit different (no integral bobbin winder), but the machine I have has been a peach. I have had going on 3 years. I have run from #69 up to #207 through it top and in the bobbin. It will probably skip a stitch sometime, but hasn't yet. The Pfaff 1245s seem to be around, and I'd start there to try to find one regionally.

Harvey, Psssst, hey buddy. Wanna buy a cherry unframed "No Place for Amateurs" etching? There may be a floor price but in looking around there is no ceiling price. We have seen the same piece in one place for $450 and another for $1250. In the same town we have seen a $200 difference. You know who we collect, so we kind of keep an eye out for asking prices on what we have too. I have seen the new ones, and they both are good. I am still liking the bucker.

Yeah, I think you got a deal. I'd have done it in a heartbeat. I have not owned one, but got to play with a Classsic a few years ago. Kind of cool to see all that clickety clacking going on in front of you. I like the humor about the color too. Yep, you did well.

Our plans are still up in the air a bit. We will be getting there on the Sunday before. As of now looks like we will be setting up camp at the hotel, and day trips out of there. Up to Logansport to see my folks. Maybe a run up to Purdue for a class reunion on Weds night. Down to Brown county. Over to Rockville for some covered bridges. I am signed up for a class on Friday and one Saturday. As an aside, I have a soft spot for museums. The Eiteljorg Museum in Indy is reported to have a really nice collection of western and NA art. I checked out their site today. On Saturday the 26th they are having a "West Fest" with demonstrations and music through the day. Sons of the San Joaquin will be singing there, we see them around out here and like them. Looks like some nice demos set up too.

Luke, Good question and hopefully the tree folks will weigh in. There are enough varieties of the Wades that they are almost a world by themselves. Each tree maker probably uses a little different definition, they do for everything else. You kind of have to go by whatever system they use. One tree maker explained to me that basically the difference he uses in the slick fork styles is the thickness of the stock. The general profile viewed from the front doesn't change much, but how much lip is is front of the horn does. I read a deal about the 3B. Going off memory here. The tree styles were numbered, and each version or upgrade was "lettered". The number 3 tree had a version A, and when they made some improvement, the next version was the 3B. I am not sure if this was with the Taylor trees or with Visalia themselves.

No simple answers and some of this varies by area. I have heard back from museum people at the NCWHM on OKC, BBHC in COdy, and the Autry. Also some private collectors. For the wool, in this area we don't seem to have as much insect larvae problem as other parts of the country. I have had recommendations from those areas of moth balls in a net bag hanging under the saddle rack, some sprays directly on the wool (Raid residual was one recommendation), and sprinkling borax or one of the silicate flea powders directly into the wool. For the iron hardware - take off the latigos and leave them off or replace them with a veg tan alternative. The hardware can have the rust removed by steel wool or brass brushes, polished up, and then a preventative applied (WD 40 seems popular) like an oil or wax. Polish brass and leave as is or lightly lacquer. For the leather - all over the board. Recommendations I have had are for the most part no oil, although one did recommend olive oil for really dry cardboard leather before messing with the saddle, another was a Lexol fan. Most of the museum folk that responded said pastes - Skidmore's, Feibing's saddle soap, Leather Therapy, or something in a burgundy can from Australia (Williams I am sure). I like RM Williams a lot. That is my general first reach for the good stuff anyway. It soaks in pretty quickly, and polishes up nicely when absorbed. I don't use any finishes on the lookers. The most common recommendation was to not apply these conditioners warm or set the piece in the sun to speed absorption. Warm rooms and a few days is better. Thin coats, give each coat a few days, and only then reapply if you seriously think it needs it. Keep any of the oils and pastes off any rawhide. Some of these oldies will have a seamless piece of rawhide over the horn. Resist the urge to condition it, it is a calf scrotum and part of history. My biggest problem is polishing the hardware like silver and brass. I use wadding and really work to keep it off the leather.

Suze, I am using IE and not havng any problems, other than sometimes instant load and sometimes a lag time. I am catching emails from a couple of members who are unable to get on at all or freeze up when they can. I think more doughnuts are in order for the staff working on this.

HDPE. A few things I found was that once I really got a sharp knife, I don't need to push "down" as much as forward, and it really made a difference about leaving tracks in the cutting board surface. On tight turns that I don't punch, I cut those on glass. I have twisted a few corner points off round knives having the imbedded to some degree in the board and than making a tight turn.

Some random thoughts on sewing machines. There are a lot of really lucky people right now. I am going to try to not sound like some cranky old guy, but you "kids" don't know how good you got it. I was merrily sewing along by hand, and started expanding. One Sunday I sewed up several trucker wallets - zippers, pockets, edges. Monday morning I knew I had to do something. I lifted my tendonitic elbows and dialed Tippmanns. They had recently introduced the Boss for $1600 with NO attachments. The next option for anything comparable in a powered machine was about $4500, and with medical biils out the wazoo, that wasn't in the cards for our deal. There were a few ASNs, Champions, and other big machines on the used market. They all came with a spare machine "for parts", and a box of greasy or rusty spare parts for the spare parts machine. Anybody local who could work on them was generally too old to. The single needle machines were not being traded on the market to any extent. There was no leather forum to discuss these machines or get advice. LCSJ wouldn't allow articles by any machine guys explaining even what to look for in a machine, feed mechanisms, anything for fear of offending another advertiser. ShopTalk had a smattering here and there, but no real meat and potaotes for an newbie. A guy looking to trade up had to wing it, or call everyone who had an ad. The guys really buying machines had knowledge of what they needed, were in "the business" in some fashion, and mostly knew who they wanted to deal with. I got my medical knowledge from Reader's Digest and my sewing machine knowledge from the back of Western Horseman. I ordered a machine out of there, those who read it know who and what machine. I just called them up, and within about 5 minutes, the deal was done. I didn't know enough to ask the right questions, ended up with a machine that by nature was not what I needed. Enter customer service - they traded me a different machine head and made the deal work for both of us. Service and parts on that machine post-sale were handled well, but no forums to sing their praises and the Yahoo lists frowned on it. I have since bought two more machines from them. The "price wars" still hadn't started and I paid for one about what you folks can buy 2 similar machine for now. I have no regrets, I sold the original for more than I had in it. The other two have paid for themselves already, and have had no downtime. When the 3000 came out, it set a new pricemark that filled that niche between the Boss and the Adler/Juki/Classic machines. It allowed a lot of people that were in between handsewing and $5000 to get a machine. We all know what has happened since. There are more companies, the prices have been pretty stable and even dropped in some cases. You can get biased and unbiased information on machine capabilities, price, service, attachments, and the sellers. There are some new handcranks, new clones, machines out a few years with a track record, and good solid info on setting up and running the old machines. Not all of the sellers are represented on this forum, but there are others. Nobody is going to agree on any one. Heck I have a Ford, Chevy, and Dodge pickup in the driveway. But the fact is the stuff is out there and more available to make an informed buying decision. At the same time, there are some good prices on machines right now. That combination was not around even as short as maybe 3-1/2 years ago (I am thinking the 300 came out 3 years ago about Sheridan time). I can't think these prices will last forever, now looks to be a pretty good time to buy. The long time users, sellers, and recent buyers all sharing their experiences here is a plus. We won't all drive Fords, Chevy's or Dodges, agree that Canadians make better whiskey than Kentucky, or Coors beats Bud, but we all know a heck of a lot more about sewing machines than we used to. Thanks to all.

Ian, I got some a year ago for $20/ft. A recent price was $30/ft. A few things I have been told about elephant, and anyone can chime in if it is not quite right. Some guys prefer the ears because they have more texture. When they are split though you can have some pinholes or thin spots with some. You can buy "panels" which are parts of a side. Some panels are full grain. Other panels are splits that come off the top grain. They can then emboss the splits with an "elephant pattern" and still call it genuine elephant. It would be different if they embossed the same pattern on cowhide and then tried to call it elephant. I had a guy show me the embossed elephant split vs. the real top gain, and it sure was a stretch to try to tell the difference. That is where a reputable supplier relationship is probably a bonus, not just the price.

One of my friends was at John Fong's in San Francisco a couple weeks ago and he had several ears. You might also contact Jerry VanAmburg, I have bought some from him. I got some nice elephant a couple years ago from GH in Houston too.