jrny4wrd

What brand do you use?

I want to start learning how to emboss leather with a filler. SF had sent me some leather dust (really dark and dirty looking?) so I mixed it with weldwood cement into a thick consistency. I wanted to se how it dried so I had put it into a small glop and left it. It had shrunken down quite a bit and barely held together. Should I be using rubber glue, or cement? Does the leather dust need to be a specific gradual size, maybe it was too tiny? Should it look like the color of leather? I am wondering if I just got a bunch of junk and dirt off the floor. Is there a specific brand glue that works best to make the paste?

What size bottle do you use? I used to only use the small bottle but the other day I bought the can. For some reason the stuff in the can does not seem to stick the same. Maybe it’s because it’s colder out now?

Has anybody seen PFLeatherGlass’s work on etsy? I mean, is it real? Been leatherworking for years and will always look up to these wallets. I’m cluless to how someone can have such a clean dye job and such a strong black. Is there classes anywhere that can teach how to dye so good?

I did do that. Just wondering if someone has more experience with it that may have so advice on large items. The small piece I did worked o.k. Not good enough for the risk. I will have to try to maybe melt the beeswax and mix it with some lanolin or mink oil.

So, went into Tandy and notice a huge sale on leather sides. Most had a sticker that said “designer leather.” For the price, it would be insane not to make good cash off some projects. Question is, the back looked like this. It almost looks woven. Is it real?

Anybody use beeswax as a blocking agent, instead of acrylic, for antiquing? I did a small sample on a small piece of leather and it worked. I’m pretty scared to do it on a big piece though.

Thank you

Do you cut the filligree out while the leather is still moist? I had tried to cut the filligree when it dried and you can imagine how hard the compressed tooled leather was to cut out. Also, how do you get rid of all the fuzz? Is that mostly from cutting it dry?

Thank you. I will just have to stitch a few together and give it a pull test.

Do you know what # the generic extra strong thread is, found at Walmarts? It says its used for coats and denim.

Normally I hand stitched every bit of my wallets. I realize not everyone can afford the time spent and I am concidering stitching the inserts with my old singer machine. What is the best size thread to use for the inserts? Not sure what size this antique will hold, currently have the Extra Strong for coats inside it. Yes, the stuff bought at every fabric store. Will this be ok for wallet inserts, or is a bonded 69 better? Advice and recomendations please.

Is there a conversion chart that would convert the mm to the thread #? I want to compair the Ritza sizes with the current threads e.g. #346. Thank you!!

It says #69 inside the spool. So that might be the pound rather than thread number? Just seems like a thick 69

I recieved a thread size (bonded nylon) 69 and I also have a 207, the thread sizes look the same as I match them up. Are the differences too small to tell by eye, or is there something else going on?

Have you found one? Looking as well.

Anybody know of a place I can get the inside wallet pockets cut? Will save me a ton of time if I can have the pieces cut for me. Preferably Asheville, NC area.

Since oil floats, I will have to see if fiebings will work mixed with some oil. Did you mix it when you tried feibings?

How would you tool the inside corner of a box? For instance, you draw out a box with the corner facing you so that you can see the 2 sides and top of the box. Is it carved?

Thank you. Turns out it was just the way the pigment was laying on the flesh side.

After tooling I let the leather dry a bit longer and dipped it in brown dye. Hours latter I added a bit of oil to it but not sure if it fully dried before I did. This morning it seems there is black on the back of the wallet backing. I rubbed it to see if it was just pigment and it rubbed off black. I didn't have it wet for too long but fear it was mold. Its not inside the leather but rather on the flesh side. It doesnt smell like mold. Is it a bad idea to dye while still damp? Anyone oil before completely dry? Whats the best way to know if its mold?

Now I know there been a few posts on holes but I may be blind, or not seen one on the buckles with the pegs that have a little ball on the end. From what I can see is there are 2 main type belts. Ones with tongues (common in stores) and ones with the studs that go into the hole. The ones with the studs in turn have 2 type. A hook and a ball. What type of hole would I make for the one with the ball? A circular with a small cut in the side?

Anybody use the GREX GENESIS XGI3 airbrush on angelus direct? Curious about getting it. Wondering about reviews.

What are the pros and cons with the differences between braided and twisted thread? I normally just buy thread from tandy and everything else from other places because they are the closest. I don't mind the thinkness and amount of wax on their twisted thread but have to ask, is there really just some bogus thread that people wouldn't touch? If so, why? I thought the general rule for thread is, "If it doesnt break after you pull it, its good." Waxed of course for friction. But, some prefer linnen, some poly, some braided, some twisted. Does it make a big difference on the quality of product? I can't really drive to a place to look at diff threads for hand sewing so I don't want to end up with a bunch of stuff I wont use. I like thick thread though.