jrny4wrd

Curious, Started a small collection for festivals I was hoping to get into a year ago. Never happened. I figure I'll just sell them this year and Social marketing isnt my strong point. Besides, I need product at the shows and with limited time (another job) they can fill the gaps. Problem I'm facing now is that my work has improved a ton. Any suggestions? I dont really want to put my name on the others anymore but fear that pricing them too low may make my others look too expensive. Should I make an apprentice section?

Thanks for the heads up. Be great if you lived out there and could just be like, "sounds hard to make an exact duplicate. I'll come pick it up". Or "I'll pay you extra to watch you make it." Be great if you lived out there and could just be like, "sounds hard to make an exact duplicate. I'll come pick it up". Or "I'll pay you extra to watch you make it."

So, your saying painting with vinegaroon is not effective because it does not soak in enough, or am I taking that wrong.

Great question. From former posts I had read you can use too much baking soda and it will "burn?" It or color it pink. From this information I gathered (I may be wrong) is that baking soda is really just there to nutralize the acidity from the vinigaroon. If thats whats its used for then puting it on leather without the vinegaroon will probably cause the PH to go way out of wack in the other dirrection. I do not dip in the roon rather just paint with it. I put the baking soda on the same way or with just a quick wipe letting it penetrate as much as the roon did. I then use a damp rag and gobover that as so there is none resting on top of the leather. I had just started this process because it seems to make sence so I too would love input from professionals.

How can you tell the difference between the leg skins? Are they priced differently? I read that emu is often sold as ostrich.

I see that u can block dye with roon over other colors. I see that u can sponge it on with detail with other colors surrounding it. Question is, will dipping it in a bicarb solution mess up the other colors? Also, what would you do if you used ecoflo and vinegaroon on one project? It seems like a lot of people using roon dip the whole project in roon.

I see that u can block dye with roon over other colors. I see that u can sponge it on with detail with other colors surrounding it. Question is, will dipping it in a bicarb solution mess up the other colors? Also, what would you do if you used ecoflo and vinegaroon on one project? It seems like a lot of people using roon dip the whole project in roon.

If I were to use eco flo on parts of a project and use vinagaroon on others, what do u feel would be the best method to neutralize the vinegaroon?

Anybody use a beeswax mixture on eco-flo. I am again contemplating on giving eco-flo another try since I love the antiquing. I may choose to just use it on wall hangings if I just can't get it working right. Its hard to believe that they would still be selling it if its poop. Anybody use a beeswax mixture on eco-flo. I am again contemplating on giving eco-flo another try since I love the antiquing. I may choose to just use it on wall hangings if I just can't get it working right. Its hard to believe that they would still be selling it if its poop.

Anybody try a beeswax over the antique?

Arebu using fiebings conditioner on the eco-flo? Shoot, didn't mean to ask you Dwight.

Adam, what are YOU using with your Eco flow as a finish? Have you used the beeswax? Also, it appears that the eco flow pro is very different in terms of their sample pack. Just wanted to note that since I originally tried their sample pack and there was a huge run off. Their pro line seems to stay.

Question: Is it ok to just wipe the baking soda solution on? Can't dipping it effect the deepness of the tooling imprint? I have never dipped for I mostly color with more than one dye and yet to use roon. Can I dye a whole item red and then block dye the top or paint vinigaroon over after?

OK. Seems plenty of info and read all comments on this, as far as I know. Question: Is it ok to just wipe the baking soda solution on? Can't dipping it effect the deepnes of the tooling imprint? I have never dipped for I mostly color with more than one. Also, one person mentioned a background color. Can I dye a whole item red and then block dye the top or paint vinigaroon over after?

I occasionally use the milled veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it. I have had no problems with the tool I g at all although antiqueing seems to not slide off as simple and darkens the whole bag. I occasionally use the milled veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it. I have had no problems with the tool I g at all although antiqueing seems to not slide off as simple and darkens the whole bag. I cannot yet post a picture of it on this site. Soon though.

I occasionally use it and find the Montana pitch blend to be flexible enough for milled veg finish. Although it states water "repellent" you will find that its just an honest statement as with any finish. It has lanolin, beeswax, and pinepitch ingredients. It not quite as shiny but, it keeps it good.

I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montana pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it.

I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it. I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it. I occasionally use the veg tan. Yes, edging is difficult. In fact, overall the whole thing is a little more difficult. I do like the pebble look and so do many customers. The finish I use is montans pitch blend. It leaves it soft without the cracking as long as you use a little at a time. I am not really sure why I see it so little in this forum though. That's probably the only thing I don't like about it.

Isn't Herman oak leather, Herman Oak leather despite where I get it from? Currious as to whether or not there is a difference from Springfield's HO to panhandles HO. ??

It really improved my stitching when I decided to be consistent at where I hold my thread before I stitch through with the second needle. E.g. started with left hand on outside of leather, hold thread towards outside edge, go through the inside hole (where thread is from first stitch) pull tight. Next hole I do the same thing. Start on outside backing, hold thread towards edge as I go through with second needle (right hand). The consistency will always make it look clean. I love the tooling by the way. Its beautiful work. I am also a fan of different color thread. I think as long as we keep it all art work, it all stays original.

For the tried fold CF I have there is no gusset. Question is is with the backing needing to be longer how would one go about punching the holes and stitching it. The bottom is a straight piece to attach as opposed to being an open place. If u get that description.

Will measuring the extra 1/8 an inch for leather thickness give you the room to close the book? I have a 8x10 inch book with a 1 inch thickness. If I measured the 1" plus the 10" for the length I am hoping closing it wouldn't be an issue as I know with wallets the folded sizing is diff.

I am sewing a motorcycle seat by hand and using upholstery leather. I am not used to stitching this soft leather. Anyhow, I am putting an argyle dimond stitch on the top and the stitching does not look straight. Is there anysuggestions? I used a saddle stitch even though I am not using it to hold 2 pieces of leather together.

I had many problems with eco-flo but that is what I was introduced to, being new. After a while I decided to go with fiebings. Finally, I figured out a little something. Tandy's sample pack of eco-flo is not the professional grade. That makes a huge difference. You hould dampen the leather b4 using the pro. eco-flo so that it will penetrate further. That is something that took over a year to figer out because Tandy simply couldn't answer why the dye kept coming off so easy. well one out of 6 people I talked to told me. The sample is crap and more for indoors. One thing I don't get is if you were a business, wouldn't you want to have samples as good as it gets? Same with sales. Thats how they get rid of their crappy stuff. I would think they would want to use sales and samples to get business and people trying new things, not to ruin their rep.

This is a double Seat that somebody is asking for me to replace their vinel with leather. It is stapled into the seat, which is easy enough to remove but can, or should I use staples again if rivets are not wanted? It is a 3-4 oz leather that will not be tooled. (Not vege-tanned other question would be, would it be a mistake to put eyelets on and tie the seat on like a cover?