Gump

I had this problem and it was the hook timing. Roll the machine forward and note where the hook and needle meet, then put machine in reverse and see if the hook and needle meet in the same position as forward. For some reason mine was way late in reverse. When hook timing matched in forward and reverse I had no more problem with skipped stitches.

Try College sewing UK.

Use light machine oil or mineral oil, it is all the same stuff. 3 in 1 oil is as good as any.

Fiskars serrated Titanium will cut 10 oz and are only about $30. I lucked into a pair at a dollar store, but can't buy another pair here in Canada, not for sale here they told me . We're considered the a$$hole of the world here in Atlantic Canada, but readily available stateside.

You're gonna have to go stateside, as Techsew has a limited selection, and will only sell you boxes of 100 needles. I bought 2 boxes because they were on sale, and they are not top quality. If you do buy from Techsew, get the more expensive needles and save some headaches, ie thread shearing and breakage.

dikman; I have the same motor on a 111, and it is 1/2 hp @ 3450 rpm. It takes 10 mins. to stop turning after turning it off and can't be stalled when sewing.

The 132 k 6 has problems with stitching uneven layers, as the foot is wider than the feed dogs. The inside of the foot has no feed dog under it, so stitching next to the bound edge can be difficult. I repair horse blankets on an old 132 because they are so dirty that I don't want to sew them on a better machine. The shuttle system is also much easier to clean and re-oil after use. I think you could spend $ 2500 much better on a cyl. arm machine with compound feed. That said, an old 132 could serve you well at 1/4 the price.

Ask administrators for permission for the adult section. You will likely find what you are looking for there.

Sometimes a clutch will get sticky and grab erratically and not slip as you would like. To fix this I run the motor up to speed, hold the machine pulley tight, turn the motor off and stamp the pedal down until the motor stops. This glazes the clutch and allows it to slip more smoothly. This works well for me doing it just once, but it depends on the condition of your clutch.

I had to drill through both ears on the body and the driver arm and put a new, larger, pin in. The amount of wear to produce slack was only .020" on my machine, but due to the length of the arm, it multiplies a lot by the time you reach the needle bar. I simply drilled right thru and then polished the hole a bit with emery cloth on a dowel until I had a tight fit, then removed the arm and sanded out the body holes until the pin turned freely with no play.

I use nothing but Lepages heavy duty contact cement, and rarely have to wait more than 2-3 mins. for set up. You only need a thin coat on each side, just enough to change the colour of the leather to a wet look. If you think Lepages is slow, don't ever bother with barge cement as it will drive you crazy waiting for it to set. I have not found any glue faster or better holding than Lepages, including spray glues used for upholstery.

I had one of Tandys euro bends that went moldy on me after forming. I used oxalic acid solution and it basicly wiped the mold right off. As with yours, it is the only time its ever happened to me. I told the local Tandy manager and he riembursed me for the oxalic acid.

Try looking for some pics and info on similar Sieko machines, as it is likely a rebranded machine. It looks like it could be a Sieko.

Checked ISMACS, and they don't list a 152 k 103. Perhaps you are looking at a 153 cylinder arm machine. A 153 has about the same specs as a 2700 Techsew, without reverse. I use my 153 k 103 more than any of my others because of the versatility of the cylinder arm. The only 152 listed is a 2 needle chain stitch machine, and not for leather.

To my recollection, that is not the adjustment lock. Turn your shaft over and there should be another screw on the other side that is your lock screw. Loosen that screw a turn or so and adjust with the large screw in your picture. That small screw you are trying to remove just holds the assembly to the shaft.

Look around for a Singer 111, or a Consew 225/226. These machines are tanks and can sew up to 3/8" with 138 thread. You may find other copies of these machines at reasonable prices, but be sure to look for a triple feed, walking foot machine.

I removed the belt and found that the set screw has a non threaded pin end that goes into a hole in the hollow top shaft, and the set screws are lined up exactly on the teeth of the cog. The only thing left was to time the hook early so that it hits the needle high in the scarf. This cuts back the tension to the point that it only pulls slightly coming off the hook. Looks like this is as good as it will get. Gump

Eric; I didn't think of that. This machine had a new top shaft put in it when I bought it, and as i said earlier, it is built from two machines so anything is possible. If the set screw spacing is slightly different, it could cause this problem. Again many Thanks.

Well, I can't get more than 2-3 degrees rotation of the bottom shaft with the top shaft held in place, and there is no visible clearance between cog teeth and belt teeth. Cog screws are all tight and in the v groove in the shafts. This machine appears to have been built from two other machines. The top is standard hammertone grey, and the arm is a darker grey, but that shouldn't matter unless maybe one was "k" machine and the other was a "w". I'm an industrial mechanic, so I have exhausted my ideas before asking stupid questions, but you never know till you ask. Thanks again Gump.

Eric; Unfortunatly when the takeup is at tdc, the arrow is 1/2 tooth off on the cog. The takeup is still below tdc when the arrow hits the timing mark. I can reduce the tension by timing the machine early so the hook hits the needle high up the scarf, but it still snaps a little as the thread releases from the hook. Latch opener seems to be ok, it doesn't seem to catch the thread and shifts back and forth evenly. Another note on the needles, a 153 K lists 135 x 5, and a 153 W lists 135 x 17, but both machines use the same manuals. Thanks Gump.

I have a 153 k 103 Singer and I have seen 3 different needle systems recommended,3355, 1955, and 1901, or 135 x 17, 135 x5,and 135 x 16. I have been using 135 x 17/16's but have always had to much tension on the upper thread as it comes around the hook, as it makes a snapping sound as the thread releases from the hook. Could this be caused by too long of a needle? Does anyone know what is the right system for this machine ? I guess there are only two different systems, because 135 x 17 and 135 x 16 are the same length, only different point, although they are listed by Singer as a different system(typo maybe). Thanks Gump.

I went looking for oxalic acid, and found that it could be ordered, but that nobody stocked it. Then I hit Home depot and found Behr All in one wood cleaner, which happens to be a 10% solution of oxalic acid. It sells for 12.99 a gallon and works well for removing black spots off of vegtan. I have been getting spots quite a bit after wetting the leather for tooling or molding(tandy hides).

I had the same problem with my Toro 3200 (441 clone). On mine the problem was the hole in the feed dog was way to big, and the center walking foot was pushing the leather into the hole and the needle would come out the side of a sheath that had a welt; total of 3/8 inch thick. I filled the hole with metal epoxy and drilled a proper sized hole in the epoxy. Problem solved. Artisan sewing said they could sell me another feed dog, with a proper size hole for $90. The garbage feed dog that came with the machine has a hole large enough for the walking foot to fit down in it.

If the 227 has reverse, it would be more versatile than a flatbed machine. You can always make a plywood flatbed attachment if needed. I use my cylinder arm machine more than twice as often as my flatbed.

I would have to say that they are for clearing lint and debris out of the shuttle journal so that it doesn't bind up.